New at sawing with a wood mizer. NEED INFO PLEASE

[Larrywoodsaw]

I just bought a lt 35 I have . 2 of a hour on it. My question is I'm getting a checker pattern on my boards the first 4 to 10 inch of my cut. I'm I going to slow? Or is it something else ? Any info would be great thanks. 

[AdamT]

It sounds like your going too slow. I had the same problem when I first started and found I was entering the log too slow. I try to enter the log as fast as I plan on feeding the head through the rest of the cut.

Harder woods l'll enter a little slower, then speed back up.

[moosehunter]

Larry,
So many questions,....
What kind of wood? What blade are you using? One of the things I learned from the good folk on the FF is to enter the cut slowly then speed up. I will sometimes get the pattern you speak of. It really does not effect the wood. I only get it in some woods and it always comes out with the first pass through the planer.

[Larrywoodsaw]

The logs I'm cutting are spruce and the blades are mw #10. I'm not use to having power feed so I thinking it is that I'm going to slow.

[Ocklawahaboy]

I get that sometimes too.  Since I always buck my logs about a foot longer than I need the finished product, 4 inches of rougher wood is negligible.  I had chalked it up to blade vibrations changing from no load to full load.  Like has already been stated, planing or belt sanding will fix it.

[Magicman]

You could notice some blade flutter or vibration before you enter the log which will stabilize after you do enter the log.  Just as the blade touches the log end, I increase the speed.  It is just a rhythm that I have developed that works for me.  You will develop what works for you.  Once the blade stabilizes in the cut, any saw pattern generally disappears unless there is an unusual wood grain that may cause additional flutter or vibration.

There were recent threads discussing unusual sawblade patterns.

[drobertson]

With all of WMZ's new additions, I am kinda thinking there might be some additional pages for specific mills, not trying to add more work for the adminastrator of course,  10"'s in the cut is a bit far for vibs to be of any affect,  Not knowing these newer mill designs, I would just have to go back to a basic mill alignment, considering all the aspects of the cutting operation. Blade guide clearance, and not to forget, if the 35's have this adjustment, a small set screw between the drive wheel and outside idle wheel, that controls blade ocillation. It should be set at full tension with near 1/16" clearance between the set screw and blade. It should be located near dead center between the two blade wheels, and acccesable with the flat cover dropped down to allow adjustment.   I like to feed in the log with some control, not ramming, then apply a good steady feed through the cut,  Good clamping of the log, or cant is always advisable.    david   don't forget to check the drive belt, they say after 20 hrs, but anytime is a good time if cuts are an issue,   

[rd roberts]

hi larry,

the last time I sawed wood and got that pattern I found a hit a nail. ( not the end of the world ) but there was metal from the nail still on the blade. it cut funny and left that pattern on my pine. look closely on the blade for those little bits. you can use small piles and gently remove the burr metal stuck. I pick it off with my finger nails. OR try a new blade.
rd

[Larrywoodsaw]

Thanks everyone for the info. I found out what I was doing wrong.  I was going way to slow at the start. I picked up my speed and that solved my promblem. Thanks again everyone. 

[drobertson]

finding the correct speeds and feeds are the key! and they can make all the difference for sure, glad you figured it out so soon,   take care, and have fun!   david