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Author Topic: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.  (Read 16471 times)

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Offline jrkimroxie

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Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« on: April 22, 2013, 10:38:39 pm »
Got them built this weekend, and found a test/dummy timber. And a pic of my "log truck" & 24' gooseneck.





Loving life 1 log at a time !!!!

Offline Rooster

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2013, 12:28:24 am »
I think you might have them upside down in your photo...

In theory, any water that gets into the joints is supposed to drain down and out, which would be away from the building not towards.

Other than that, you are 64 notches away from having a cabin!!!!

Nice work!

Rooster
P.S.
Here is a photo from jander3's album that shows the orientation.
 

 
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Offline Jason

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2013, 03:13:54 pm »
Where is the picture of the jig? ??? I am hoping to do the same to build a little hunting cabin(12X16) but am curious about angles and size/hieghth of the dovetails. Thanks for any help.
"Better to be silent and thought of as a fool than to speak and remove all doubt." Mark Twain

Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2013, 08:20:18 pm »
Back in 2010 a client asked me if I could draw a corner of a log cabin for his project.

It took me a while to get it but I did it and here is a shot of the design:

 

 

Just now I added the dimensions to this picture of the two pieces. In order for the joint to shed rain water the two bevels have to slope outward so that the water will run out. This means the top is a different angle then the bottom.
The bottom is cut without a slope from inside to outside. Just a slope towards the end. The top is cut with the slope from the inside out to the outside.

The example above is for a 6x12 squared up log. But I'm sure if you have a size that is similar you could create two slopes that will work. These tails were 8" long so that two inches hung out beyond the corner. If you want more overhang you may have to adjust the slope to not "take away" too much tail.

Hopefully from something like this idea you can create your own drawings to create your own jig. And you may need a right hand jig and a left hand jig to make a pair that will mate up.

I hope this helps you.

Jim Rogers



 
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Offline jander3

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 08:09:00 am »
This is all you need for  template, made out of something stiff:

 

 


Note: If you make the template using the measurements above, the angle will be 14.7 degrees.

Using a template:
http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2011/06/12-dovetail-layout.html

Making a template:
http://www.peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2013/01/dovetail-templatehow-to-make-one.html


You could build a guide if wanted; however, for me it only takes a minute to layout the joint...cut the shoulders with a hand saw...cut the faces freehand with a small chainsaw..and finish with a slick.  10 minutes or so per joint.


Jon

Offline Jay C. White Cloud

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2013, 08:17:38 am »
Hi Jander3,

Great post thread.  In your opinion, (and others) you are showing the "half dovetail notch," which do you believe is more common historically, the "half" or "full" dovetail joint and why, if you have any thoughts?  I find it to be regionally specific, any thoughts on why that may be?

Regards,

jay
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Offline Brian_Weekley

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2013, 08:02:36 pm »
Jon,

Great tutorial in laying out the dovetails!  One question for you...how do you deal with variance in the beam heights (e.g., some might be 8 1/4" and others 7 7/8").  Do you select a "reference" edge like in square rule TF?  If the beams aren't uniform in height, does it propagate errors?  How do you adjust where the joints meet with other beams?

Thanks, Brian
e aho laula

Offline jander3

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2013, 09:41:23 pm »
Jay,

My understanding of the 1/2 dovetail is that it sheds water better, no slope toward the joint.


Brian,

The dovetail layout is based off the top and bottom edge, so if your timber is under or over sized some, the dovetail thickness could change.  I guess this could cause errors, but when your put the beam up on the wall you are going to check it for level and adjust the joint to ensure the beam is level and the joint fit satisfactory (which might require you to pare the face some).  If you check and adjust each beam as you assemble, you won't have any issue.

I guess a guy could lay out the dovetail from a center-line snapped on the beam, but that seems like much more work that simply paring the joint if needed.   A 1/4 inch won't matter as the chinking gap will be larger than 1/4.   



Jon

Offline Stephen1

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2013, 10:04:30 pm »
I believe we had a member from Montana that sold a great jig at a reasonable price.
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Offline Dana

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2013, 07:57:12 am »
I believe we had a member from Montana that sold a great jig at a reasonable price.

We do his name is Fredinmontana. I have been in contact with him during the last week as I finally got around to making my first dovetailed log with his jig.
Grass-fed beef farmer, part time sawyer

Offline ChrisGermany

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2013, 10:19:35 am »
Hi Jander3,

Great post thread.  In your opinion, (and others) you are showing the "half dovetail notch," which do you believe is more common historically, the "half" or "full" dovetail joint and why, if you have any thoughts?  I find it to be regionally specific, any thoughts on why that may be?

Regards,

jay

This wasn't addressed to me, but I hope I can submit my two cents without misdirecting the discussion.  smiley_beertoast

In America, at least, it seems that the half-dovetail is much more common. It's easily cut with an axe and requires precious little laying out. Just scribe a couple of angles from one log to the next and start hewing it down.

I don't enjoy cutting compound dovetails with an axe. Not only does my poor brain cramp contemplating the double-slope, I usually dig too deep with a sloppy chop and ruin the joint. Slow, even paring seems to be the only way I can safely couple logs with a full dovetail.

Then again, maybe this is just my handicap and no one else has that problem!  :D


"Take therefore no thought for the morrow: for the morrow shall take thought for the things of itself. Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." -- Matthew 6:34

Offline Imre

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Re: Finally built my 6x12 dovetail jigs.
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2017, 09:06:55 am »
Back in 2010 a client asked me if I could draw a corner of a log cabin for his project.

It took me a while to get it but I did it and here is a shot of the design:

 

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Just now I added the dimensions to this picture of the two pieces. In order for the joint to shed rain water the two bevels have to slope outward so that the water will run out. This means the top is a different angle then the bottom.
The bottom is cut without a slope from inside to outside. Just a slope towards the end. The top is cut with the slope from the inside out to the outside.

The example above is for a 6x12 squared up log. But I'm sure if you have a size that is similar you could create two slopes that will work. These tails were 8" long so that two inches hung out beyond the corner. If you want more overhang you may have to adjust the slope to not "take away" too much tail.

Hopefully from something like this idea you can create your own drawings to create your own jig. And you may need a right hand jig and a left hand jig to make a pair that will mate up.

I hope this helps you.

Jim Rogers



 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Hi Jim Rogers

I'm citing your post on the foreground where you drew the joint of the template.

Can you advise me and draw the picture and dimensions of the joint where the wood will be 15x15 cm in size?

I will be very grateful.
Matta