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Channel Siding

Started by LodgeMan, April 14, 2013, 01:53:54 PM

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LodgeMan

Does anyone have advice on shaping either 3/4" or 4/4" boards into channel siding.

Cutter recommendations?

Board thickness and width recommendations? We're planning on a 7" board width prior to processing.

We're also planning to not plane the boards and finish them with something like Sikkens (?) for a natural look.
LodgeMan:
Only a few years of sawmilling on the side. Something  for Dad and I to do. It keeps us out of prison.
Lucas Mill 8", Delta Shaper, CAD/CAM/CNC wood engraving/mill, Allis Chalmers WD.

jueston

no advice about channel siding, but i have used sikkens on a couple decks and i really like the way it soaks in and protects.

and welcome to the forestry forum! :)

jim blodgett

Channel siding.  I remember putting up lots of that in the 80's.  I like it. 

I'd prefer 4/4 over 3/4, that's for sure. By the time you shiplap one edge and machine out the face of the other I gotta think you'd be getting mighty thin if you started with 3/4.

I see you have a shaper.  You could use rabbeting type cutters on your shaper, that's sure.  You could do a mighty good job milling channel siding on a table saw with a good ripping blade, too.  Router in a table would work great, or even hand held for that matter...no shortage of ways to skin that cat.

Are we talking western red cedar here?  Or? 

Are you thinking quater sawn or flat sawn boards to start with?

You planning to install it vertically or horizontally? Pros and cons to each.  Kind of depends on how exposed to direct weather it is and lines of the building, I guess.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

First question to answer is how much of the wood do you want still in contact with the adjacent piece minimum (in the summer when the wood is really dry and has shrunk its maximum)?  Let's say 1/2". 

Second, how much channel to do want--the exposed channel?  Let's say 1" maximum when dry.  So the tongue will be 1-1/2" when dry, but 1/2" will be covered.  If the wood stayed dry, then the opening on the other edge would only have to be 1/2", but the wood will get wet and swell.

Third, you need to plan on swelling when it rains a lot.  This will vary by species, so let's assume your species is going to move a maximum of 5% from dry to wet.  (Would be 3% if quarter sawn).  So, 6% of 7" is 0.35".  This means that the slot on the backside will have to be 1/2" + 0.35" deep.  Also, this means and then when the wood is wet, the visible 1" channel will shrink to 1.00 - 0.35 = 0.65".  If this is too narrow, then expand all the dimensions.

Is this clear?  If not, I will try again.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

LodgeMan

Correct. I'd like a one inch reveal with 1/2" overlap after any shrinkage.

It'll be mostly flat-sawn boards. The wood will be Ash--customer preference. That's why I'm more concerned about finish product (Sikkens, etc)

Horizontal orientation is the plan. That's why I'd like to have either a 45 degree or curved edge on the upward facing edge of the board (when installed horizontally) to shed water and snow a little better than a squared edge. Any shaper cutter ideas for that?



LodgeMan:
Only a few years of sawmilling on the side. Something  for Dad and I to do. It keeps us out of prison.
Lucas Mill 8", Delta Shaper, CAD/CAM/CNC wood engraving/mill, Allis Chalmers WD.

The Fireman

I make this type of siding on my woodmaster, ive run pine, hemlock, spruce and larch and have made well over 10,000 feet in the past couple years. I run a 1" grove and the toung has a rounded cove that starts at about 1.5" and curves out to the face of the board at about 3".

I start with a 4/4 board and it finishes out at about 7/8" once its done. Ive had this siding on my house for 3 years now and ive never seen any gaps open up or had any issues with it.

hillbillyhogs

Do you work for Woodmaster.... EVERY post you've made is about woodmaster!!


Quote from: The Fireman on May 12, 2013, 06:46:53 PM
I make this type of siding on my woodmaster, ive run pine, hemlock, spruce and larch and have made well over 10,000 feet in the past couple years. I run a 1" grove and the toung has a rounded cove that starts at about 1.5" and curves out to the face of the board at about 3".

I start with a 4/4 board and it finishes out at about 7/8" once its done. Ive had this siding on my house for 3 years now and ive never seen any gaps open up or had any issues with it.

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