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LT40-- can I cut 3/4 for the dog board?

Started by Okrafarmer, April 10, 2013, 06:25:58 PM

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Okrafarmer

I am pricing a job of 3/4 inch siding. One of the key factors to my pricing is whether or not I can mill the last board on the mill at 3/4. I have never tried, and I am leery of doing so. I'm pretty sure the blade would clear the stub tabs (they're about 1/2inch) but not so sure about the clamshell clamp.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

beenthere

Make a dry run...

Or toss a slave board on to raise the dog board up.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Magicman

I can not help you with your clamp height, but you can always make a jig for sawing the dog board.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bibbyman

On our old manual LT40 I have cheated and put a 1/4" thick piece of bar stock on each bed rail.   I've not tried it on the hydraulic mill. 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Okrafarmer

Quote from: Magicman on April 10, 2013, 06:28:34 PM
I can not help you with your clamp height, but you can always make a jig for sawing the dog board.
Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2013, 06:27:01 PM
Make a dry run...

Or toss a slave board on to raise the dog board up.

I thought of that, but it's hard to clamp it with my side supports (back stops) and clamshell clamp.

Beenthere is right. I can make a dry run (engine off). Will do.

Quote from: Bibbyman on April 10, 2013, 06:31:30 PM
On our old manual LT40 I have cheated and put a 1/4" thick piece of bar stock on each bed rail.   I've not tried it on the hydraulic mill. 

Hmm, good idea.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Okrafarmer

Quote from: Bibbyman on April 10, 2013, 06:31:30 PM
On our old manual LT40 I have cheated and put a 1/4" thick piece of bar stock on each bed rail.   I've not tried it on the hydraulic mill.

Maybe a short piece of channel iron on each rail? The channel would help it stay in place.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Chuck White

Maybe just put a strip of ¼inch plywood on the deck!

My blade will clear the nubs at the end of the first and last bunk when set at ¾inch, but might be a little touchy when it comes to the flipper clamp!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

beenthere

QuoteI thought of that, but it's hard to clamp it with my side supports (back stops) and clamshell clamp.

Depends on how thick the slave "board" is. Make it with a 3/4" fence on the support side of a 3" slave, and then just clamp the slave. The dog board will just lay on top and push against the fence.
Light hand pressure may be needed to keep it there with no clamping needed.
Something on this order....


 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

CalebL

When I am cutting under 1" boards, I cut to the pith on the cant and flip it over and cut down to the last board and usually throw it out as it's no good anyway. 
2005 LT40 HDD34
2000 Cat 226 Skid Loader

isawlogs

 Heres my thought on this. Not knowing how much needs be sawn, so  bare with me.  ;D

   I would look at sawing the 3/4 inch boards till I got to the last 1 1/2" or whatever factor of two boards you are using, then I would pull that board off and set aside and saw another log once you have all your order about done and have only those thicker boards to resaw , I would make a resaw jig that would raise those boards enough to be able to clamp them, mesure the height I need to resaw them into two 3/4" boards and resaw them and voîla your done.
  Well its all clear in my mind  :D  ;)
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

beenthere

Quote from: CalebL on April 10, 2013, 07:33:48 PM
When I am cutting under 1" boards, I cut to the pith on the cant and flip it over and cut down to the last board and usually throw it out as it's no good anyway.

So you are saying that for a 16" diam log, you would toss the center board because it has the pith and also would have two quarter sawn 7+" thicker boards each side of the pith?    ::)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Okrafarmer

We're talking about white pine here, not cherry or hickory. The pith doesn't matter much, right? The old circle millers generally just flew right through it, and packed and shipped it all, didn't they? Why does the pith of pine automatically become a problem when we are now using band mills?

And at 3/4 inch thick board and batten siding, it will be thin enough to flex when put up green, and any slight bowing sideways will be covered by the batten. (I hope. . .)
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Magicman

Quote from: Okrafarmer on April 10, 2013, 09:53:36 PMWhy does the pith of pine automatically become a problem when we are now using band mills?
I don't know about White Pine, but with SYP, I am concerned with the log's sweep.  I position the log and then level the center of the log (not the pith) to the sawmill bed.  I do not concern myself with the pith.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

isawlogs

 Okra, pith won't matter, as you noted, once put up the batten will hold the board from any cupping. My whole shop is done with white pine sawed through and through, sawed it all top top bottom and never even gave the pith any thought.
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

CalebL

Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2013, 09:16:03 PM
Quote from: CalebL on April 10, 2013, 07:33:48 PM
When I am cutting under 1" boards, I cut to the pith on the cant and flip it over and cut down to the last board and usually throw it out as it's no good anyway.

So you are saying that for a 16" diam log, you would toss the center board because it has the pith and also would have two quarter sawn 7+" thicker boards each side of the pith?    ::)

You don't cut much oak, do you?  The last board I cut is at a full 1".  It typically won't have much good lumber in it.  I have one customer that I cut a lot of 3/4" x 7" boards and yes, I toss that 1" board as it has all the early wood and isn't good for much. 
2005 LT40 HDD34
2000 Cat 226 Skid Loader

beenthere

I guess you don't follow what I said, and I don't follow what you are saying. Not a problem. Carry on.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Brucer

When I was running another guy's 1996 mill (old style clamp) he told me "the book" said he could only go to within 1" of the bed. However, we routinely dropped down to 7/8" with no problem. The blade would blow the sawdust off the stops and the clamp, but never ever made contact ;D.

With my 2005 & 2006 mills, "the book" said I could only go within 1" of the bed. I routinely drop down to 7/8" with never a problem ;D. Well, OK, once in a while I forget to check the height of the clamp and trash a blade :(. That was one advantage of the old style clamp. If it was in the lowest position, you were safe. If it was in the higher position, it was obvious you weren't safe.

The stops on my mill are made from 3/4" square bar stock. The stainless sleeves on the bed raise the cant a little higher but I think you'll be pushing things if you try to get a 3/4" board directly off the bed.

Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

scully

I bleed orange  .

redbeard

When iam sawing board n bat pkgs . Iam with Caleb flip it, but I will usually saw shy of pith before I flip it and saw down other side to the width of bats normally  2 1/2" and repeat process with bats and toss the 2x2  with pith in it. I like the bat face to be flat sawn  gives a nice look to siding jobs.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

jcbrotz

Keep the last board any money(time) you save by making that one board will be out the window when the blade deflects a 1/16 in the wrong location :'(. You could even plane it later to 3/4 if ya really wanted to.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

CalebL

Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2013, 11:53:38 PM
I guess you don't follow what I said, and I don't follow what you are saying. Not a problem. Carry on.

Sorry, didn't mean to be snappy.  Had a bad night.  My apologies. 
2005 LT40 HDD34
2000 Cat 226 Skid Loader

Okrafarmer

Well, I'm liking the idea of putting channel iron upside down on the bars. That should do it.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

bandmiller2

Okra,I'am sure you can sell 1" boards why not cut 3/4 and throw the last 1" board in a different pile no stress no worries just a sale on a anouther day. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Okrafarmer

Quote from: bandmiller2 on April 11, 2013, 08:30:05 PM
Okra,I'am sure you can sell 1" boards why not cut 3/4 and throw the last 1" board in a different pile no stress no worries just a sale on a anouther day. Frank C.

That is an excellent idea, which I thought of. The problem is, I don't think I have enough logs to throw the middle board away. I'll be slipping in just under the ribbon as it is.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Magicman

Me thinks that maybe your margin is too thin.  I realize that it is a fine line, but allow yourself some slack.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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