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Husqvarna 3120XP Resurrection

Started by Stu in Tokyo, April 10, 2013, 08:03:35 AM

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Stu in Tokyo

Greetings from Tokyo  smiley_wavy

Back in 2006, my buddy Jim bought this saw to use at the international school he worked at then, there was a very old Ginko tree that was coming down and he wanted to slab up the trunk to use in his shop classes. I built him a Tokyo chainsaw mill to do the job. Then Jim moved back to the US and the saw stayed here in Japan. The saw was bought new in the US. Since Jim left, someone got hold of the saw and abused it fairly bad. I recently got a call from one of the staff out there and they just wanted to get rid of the saw, it was causing some trouble having a "CHAINSAW" in the school I mean what could go wrong?  ::)

I went out today and got the saw, it is in bad shape, but I paid almost nothing for it, so I figure with some new parts and TLC it will be good to go.

The Saw...


 


 


 

Now on to the uglies, the chain.....


  

  

  

 
Sorry that last one is a bit out of focus.

The bar is badly worn...


  

 

From what I can see the chain was on super tight, it was stupid tight when I got the saw, the bolts holding the bar on were also super tight, took a lot more effort that it should to loosen the nuts.



 
You can see the burnt paint and the bubbled sticker, shows how hot this must have gotten.



  

 
You can see how badly burnt/melted the chain brake handle is, that cannot be normal...?



 
The side cover which houses the chain brake, it is a mess.



 
The chain brake itself is broken, worn out and melted away, the aluminum of the side case is actually melted on to the steel strip that is the brake.



 
The fuel line was hard and actually broken.



 
I was able to pull out enough fresh fuel line from the gas tank to cut off the hard bit and hook the carb up again, I just wanted to make sure the saw will run!

Took some doing but I got it to start, runs poorly, the carb is not set up correctly.

Does anyone have any ballpark settings for me?

There are two screws on the carb, one smaller on marked "L" and a larger one marked "T" I figure that the smaller "L" adjustment is for the low or idle range, and the larger "T" is for the higher revs.

Ball park on the number of turns out?

I'm running 50:1 Dino oil to gas.

It will run, but it is not set up right at the moment, I need to dial it in, and I need to buy some parts.

I'm thinking a new 24" bar and chain, might as well replace the sprocket too I guess, a new sticker to replace the bubbled one (it just simply looks BAD!!) a new brake for the chain brake, and I think I'll rebuild the carb while I'm at it. Any thing I'm missing?

Should I pull the head and look at the cylinder? I seems to have good compression, and I put a new sparkplug in it too.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

celliott

Interesting, nice find!
I think if it got that hot, I would definitely be pulling the top end apart and inspecting all the internals.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

JohnG28

At the very least pull the muffler and have a look through the exhaust port. May give an idea of what's going on inside, and the way it was abused I'd say there would likely be exhaust side scoring first.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

sawguy21

That got pretty hot, the bar and chain sure took some abuse. Pop the muffler off and have a look at the piston skirt, that should give a fair idea of the internal condition.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Stu in Tokyo

Great idea guys, I'll do that for sure!

Any suggestions on the ballpark carb settings?
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

HolmenTree

The saw was run quite abit with the chain brake engaged by looking at the burnt off brake band. These saws have the torque to spin the clutch drum on a engaged brake band. Who knows the operator may have cut a cord of wood with the chain brake on :D
The plastic brake lever melted from contact on the muffler.
Rebuild the carb with a new diaphragm kit, the diaphragms are probably as brittle as the fuel line. These saws have a fixed Hi speed. [L is Lo, T is idle.]
Pull the muffler and look for severe scoring on the piston, just by pulling it over will show you if it's got good compression. Hopefully the saw was run on the proper mix ratio of fuel.
All in all it looks like you got one hell of a good deal, cosmetically it looks like a new saw, besides the sprocket cover.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Stu in Tokyo

Quote from: HolmenTree on April 10, 2013, 10:36:44 AM
The saw was run quite abit with the chain brake engaged by looking at the burnt off brake band. These saws have the torque to spin the clutch drum on a engaged brake band. Who knows the operator may have cut a cord of wood with the chain brake on :D
The plastic brake lever melted from contact on the muffler.
Rebuild the carb with a new diaphragm kit, the diaphragms are probably as brittle as the fuel line. These saws have a fixed Hi speed. [L is Lo, T is idle.]
Pull the muffler and look for severe scoring on the piston, just by pulling it over will show you if it's got good compression. Hopefully the saw was run on the proper mix ratio of fuel.
All in all it looks like you got one hell of a good deal, cosmetically it looks like a new saw, besides the sprocket cover.

Thanks

Yeah, I too wondered if someone ran it with the brake engaged, I mean the heat to melt stuff the way it is, just crazy, must have been run with the brake engaged. I would imagine with normal use that brake strap (?) would last a long time, no?

Cheers!
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

sablatnic

You should take off the muffler, and take a look at the piston, and the oil line, which is located behind the muffler. Good luck with it!!

Stu in Tokyo

OK I had a look, there are some scuff marks, but I'd certainly not call it scored!
I have a background in 2-smoke off-road and on road racing bikes, the piston looks fine!

The rings look good too, there is nothing blowing by those rings.



 
You can see the top of the piston, just, and the rings and the area below the rings is still silver, not brownish, good sign to my eye.



 
Piston on it's way up a little more.



 
What I'd call scuff marks, nothing more than surface marks, no scratches that I can see.



 
End of the scuff marks, and now for the bottom of the piston skirt



 
The bottom of the skirt does not even have scuff marks.

I think I'm good to go!

I'll order a carb rebuild kit, a new bar, chain, sprocket, brake and maybe even a brake handle, see how much that cost, and then a sticker for the side, just to get rid of that bubbled one.

Cheers!
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

sawguy21

That certainly should cover it. Now watcha gonna sacrifice with that monster? ;D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

JimBuis

Well Stu, it is good to see you on here. The Forum is one of my all time favorite sites although I haven't been around much recently. It sure is a shame to see that saw in such bad shape. I bought that saw new in 2006 I believe it was and checked at St. Louis' Lambert Airport as checked baggage and took it back to Tokyo with me.

If there is anything I can help with Stu, just holler. Of course some of these guys are a lot better with small engines than I am, but I'll help if I can.

Jim
Jim Buis                             Peterson 10" WPF swingmill

Vance in AK

You are inspiring me!  I have a 3120xp that needs some help.  Dogs & chainbrake were removed to use it on a mill 7 lost 9was only on the mill for one small project.  Hasn't been started in mrobably 15 yrs but stored in a dry heated area.  Was thinking of trying to swap the beast for a nice midsize saw, but maybe I'll resurrect her instead!

Al_Smith

That piston doesn't look bad at all .The chain needs some attention ,the bar is pretty much toast . A little TLC it will be good as new .

HolmenTree

The piston looks in good condition, bottom end bearings should be just as good as well, looks like the proper fuel mix was used  .
That's the beauty of the carb fixed hi-speed on these big saws, nobody can monkey with the carb setting and burn these saws up seeing this type of saw is designed for heavy duty cutting with long cuts.
You won't have to replace the chain brake lever, only burnt underneath, should still be structural strong .Throw the chain in the garbage can and replace the bar nose, then joint it up to match the worn bar, check the bar rails for 90°square and for rail spreading.
The previous owner ran this saw with the burnt out bar nose with no sprocket and bearings, pretty abusive. Good thing this saw has an outboard clutch, heat was able to escape to the sprocket cover. Now on an inboard clutch saw there would be all kinds of damage towards the interior of the saw.
Just replace the brake band and get some fresh grease to that clutch drum bearing.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Al_Smith

That very poorly filed guard type semi chisel chain didn't help the heat to the bar situation .Of course a 3120 would pull it if it were on backwards .Big orange saw has a bunch  of power .

HolmenTree

I think the previous operator didn't care how sharp or how well the chain cut ,he just sat on the big saw and let it do the work.

Kind of like those photos you see from India or similar places where theres hundreds of people catching a ride on top of an already overloaded train. :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Stu in Tokyo

You guys are correct, the last operator had no idea, it is obvious to me that he (and its always a HE) ran the saw with the brake engaged, that is the only thing that explains the heat generated, and the chain, well it is so dull, I would not doubt it if would cut better run backwards ::)

I went out to my local Home Depot like place here in Japan, as they do sell chainsaws and do have some of the accessories etc. When I say close, I should qualify, this place is outside Tokyo proper, I live in downtown Tokyo, on a VERY good day, using the toll expressways, I can be there in under an hour, that is "Close" for me here in Tokyo. This place is a bit in the countryside, they sell all sorts of farming stuff. I thought they sold Husqvarna chainsaws too. Well they don't sell Husqvarna saws anymore, the fellow at the small engine repair counter and he they used to sell Husqvarna chainsaws, but they gave up as Husqvarna Japan was utterly useless. For example they would order some parts for a customer, like say a carb rebuild kit, it would take a month.....yes a MONTH to get the kit.

I had a run in with Husky Japan a few year back with my good old 185CD saw, I needed some parts, a carb rebuild kit was the main thing I needed, the guy on the phone told me that I should buy a new saw, that the old 185CD was no good. Yes I know it does not have a brake on it, but I use it in a chainsaw mill, so that is not really a concern, nope he said, you should buy a new saw, he would not order the parts for me.

Well today I came up very short, this was my list of things I wanted to buy:

185CD
A spark plug just to have a new spare (I have two used spares)
An 18" or 20" bar
A couple of chains for the new bar
A new chain (ripping if they have it),  for my 24" bar
A new muffler

I have a modified motorcycle muffler that mount for when I'm milling, keeps the noise down, but it is not good to use without the mill.

3120XP
New chain for the 32" bar
brake parts
Side cover sticker
Fuel line
Carb rebuild kit

And just to have, one of those combo wrenches, that has the socket and the screw driver all in one, I had one but it went missing.

I walked out of the home center with only the combo wrench, they did not have any fuel line in stock, they also did not have any of the chain I needed, so they could not make me up a chain, oh bother. >:(

Now I'm going to have to avail myself of an online retailer in the US I guess, I wonder if any of them will ship international?

Cheers!

My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

mad murdock

Talk to the folks at Baileys, I bet they will fix you up.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Stu in Tokyo

Quote from: mad murdock on April 12, 2013, 06:49:14 AM
Talk to the folks at Baileys, I bet they will fix you up.

Yes, I've dealt with them before, and while shipping always cost, that is part of the whole "Living in Japan" thing I guess. While I'm at it, I'm going to see if they can get me some new stuff for my old 185CD saw, maybe put a shorter bar on it for round the house use  ;D
If I need a big saw for the mill, the 3120 will certainly do that, but I might also sell it, really the 185CD has worked well on the mill. I'd much rather have a new smaller lightweight saw for "yard work".

We shall see, I've got to get both saws running first. Need to go buy some new gas, the gas I'm using is from Nov 2012, it has fuel stabli in it, but I think it's better to get some new gas, the old 185CD is a bit of a pig to start first thing in the morning. I need a gas saw running by Tuesday, I have a chance to get a few nice trees as there is some road widening going on here locally, if I can cut the wood into manageable chunks I can have it.

Cheers and thanks for all the help fellas! ;D
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo

Interesting the chain that is on the 3120XP saw is marked B3 and has 95 drive links. I think this is a Granberg ripping chain.

95 drive links, what length would that make the bar, 30" ???

The Oregon bar has a number on it, well it has two number the top number is 0-343-95-404 the number below that is 3263 2100 ED
I thought that the "32" in the second number makes the bar a 32" but maybe I'm wrong?
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo

OK this is driving me nuts  ;D



On the tip is says OREGON 404 and it is a solid nosed bar, no sprocket......

I can't find any info on this bar, anyone have an idea?
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

HolmenTree

Stu you have a 30" .404 .063 bar there that takes 92 drive link loop of .404 chain. Yes B3 is Grandberg's code for .404 ripping chain.
Don't forget to order a Oregon Powermatch sprocket nose tip.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Stu in Tokyo

Quote from: HolmenTree on April 12, 2013, 10:43:01 AM
Stu you have a 30" .404 .063 bar there that takes 92 drive link loop of .404 chain. Yes B3 is Grandberg's code for .404 ripping chain.
Don't forget to order a Oregon Powermatch sprocket nose tip.
Thanks much, how did you glean such info?  ???

Is there a secret decoder ring I need or something?  :D

The chain has 95 drive cogs, or links on it (the piece the goes into the groove on the guide bar) maybe that is part of the problem, the wrong chain on the bar?

I'm going to order a bar and chain set, that will solve the problem.

Cheers!
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo

Stupid question, the saw is running a .404 chain now, does this mean I would have to change the drive sprocket to run a .375 chain?
My adventures in Tokyo can be found > HERE < and my YouTube Channel is > HERE <
Cheers!

HolmenTree

Quote from: Stu in Tokyo on April 12, 2013, 10:52:51 AM
Quote from: HolmenTree on April 12, 2013, 10:43:01 AM
Stu you have a 30" .404 .063 bar there that takes 92 drive link loop of .404 chain. Yes B3 is Grandberg's code for .404 ripping chain.
Don't forget to order a Oregon Powermatch sprocket nose tip.
Thanks much, how did you glean such info?  ???

Is there a secret decoder ring I need or something?  :D

The chain has 95 drive cogs, or links on it (the piece the goes into the groove on the guide bar) maybe that is part of the problem, the wrong chain on the bar?

I'm going to order a bar and chain set, that will solve the problem.

Cheers!
Oh sorry for the typo Stu, you do have a 32" .404 95 DL b/c
I got mixed up from your previous post about you saying 30", I missed the 95DL chain you mentioned.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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