To Debark or Not to Debark?

Kirk_Allen · April 16, 2004, 08:54:02 PM

For those that have gone from not using a debarker to using one what are your opinions?

Do you feel it was money well spent to install a debarker?

I am contemplating installing one on my LT40 but would appreciate some input from the experts first.

Thanks

Brian_Rhoad · April 16, 2004, 09:57:35 PM

For me it was the best "up-grade" I've done to my mill. It saves time and blades. I used a Log Wizard before I got my "mud saw". It saves alot of time when you can load the log and just start sawing.

D._Frederick · April 17, 2004, 10:02:27 AM

Kirk,

Unless you can pick your logs up were they fell and haul them to your mill and place them on your log skids, the de-barker will pay for itself in short order. If you are sawing rough bark trees that have been skidded, they will be full of dirt and rock, the de-barker will open up a path for the saw blade to enter wood instead of cutting through all of the stuff collected in skidding. You will go from 100-200 bdft on dirty log to 700-1000 bdft with the de-barker before needing to change blades.

ARKANSAWYER · April 19, 2004, 09:35:51 PM

When Will of WoodMizer in MT. Vernon found out I was going to saw alot with my mill he told me that the de-barker was worth more then a diesel engine when it came to sawing alot. He was so very right. I have gotten several jobs behind other sawyers who did not have a de-barker and they gave up when they could not even get one slabed with out having to change a blade due to sand or mud. You figure that you can buy alot of blades and have them sharpened for the coin spent on a de-barker but how can you recover the time spent changing blades after only 200 bdft? They are worth it if you are going to saw much at all.
ARKANSAWYER

Percy · April 19, 2004, 11:53:38 PM

Im with everyone on this. I installed one on my old LT40 and it was a godsend for all the reasons mentioned above. Production goes up, blades last longer, muddy logs arnt an issue as long as a guy makes sure the knotts are cut flush with the surface of the log as some mud can be missed on the "downwind" side of a knott. You will need at least an 80 amp alternator,100 would be better as my old LT40 hadda 65 amper on it and the debarker would kill the battery after a bit. ;D

Bibbyman · April 20, 2004, 06:26:02 AM

I'm with you fellers. ;)

Kirk_Allen · April 20, 2004, 11:53:49 AM

Thanks so much guys. I kind of figured this would be the case but was looking for that additional bump over the edge so that its easier to justify the money.

Debarker it is 8)

rs1626 · April 20, 2004, 01:30:38 PM

HAS ANYBODY ADDED HOMEMADE DEBARKER TO THERE MILL THEY DON'T LOOK LIKE THERE TOO HARD TO BUILD

Bibbyman · April 20, 2004, 07:33:02 PM

It'd be pretty hard to build one with all the features of the WM debarker.

I had a Jones Debarker on my old WM. It worked well but was not nearly as slick as the WM one. Although it was powerful and had an 8" blade that made it ride over knots easier. Even so, the Jones debarker was pretty much a tool and die shop job - not a hack and grind job. It had hardened rods and slides with bearings, etc.

AtLast · April 20, 2004, 07:49:47 PM

DEFINATELY install 1...I went to see this old farmer that had a WM and no debarker. He used an axe and "eyeballed" the line the blade would follow and chipped away the bark....

I have 1 on my mill and wouldnt want to be without it

Rod · April 21, 2004, 06:50:14 AM

I wouldn't think it would be all that hard to build a debark.

It would be interesting to see one that someone has built.

rs1626 · April 21, 2004, 11:07:30 AM

anybody got a good picture of woodmizers?

Norm · April 21, 2004, 11:37:17 AM

I took some of mine for Neil some time back, if you want full size ones that show other angles PM me and I'll e-mail em to you.

ronwood · April 21, 2004, 11:38:10 AM

rs1626

Looks like Norm_F beat me to the punch.

Link to Woodmizer web site that shows another view of the debarker.

http://www.woodmizer.com/options/debarker.html

Ron