HELPPPPPP!!!!

[strunk57]

Im so frustrated right now, I am stuck and dont know what to do anymore, hopefully one of you experts can direct me in the right path.

Today i went to get 7 decent cedar logs the biggest being 28 inches at the bottom, I got them to my mill andstarted sawing. I just put a brand new saw blade on. The first two logs sawed GREAT, then i went to going to fast and hit a dog, well at that time my cousin pulls up and i ask him to chage the blade while i work on the log deck, a couple minutes later i see him trying to take the rollers off, i quickly stop him and finished changing it myself.

After the new blade was on and another log on the mill i take my first pass, 3 ft into the log the head starts shaking and i look and see the left roller, the band was under it. I try to adjust the rollers time and time and time again, i dont know whats wrong or what to do, about 2 ft into the log the blade will come under the roller and screw the board all up.

Any suggestions??? Ive tried everything i know how

[strunk57]

I am running a Norwood LL24 btw, i measured the wheels and are both are even. Maybe its a default blade??

[ladylake]

Any mill should saw straight when set up right
 

Down pressure 1/4"
Guide roller or flange 3/16 to 1/4 behind back of blade
Blade level with deck
All bearing in good shape
Sharp blade, can be dulled real fast with dirt
Proper set, too little will not cut stright.        Steve

[strunk57]

That may be the prob, I didnt know the roller had to be behind the blade.....And what do you mean by down pressure if you dont mind me asking for I am a noob.

[hamish]

The band should run below the blade guides, with about 1/8" spacing to the rear flange of the blade guide.

[thecfarm]

To late to call now,but get on the phone and maybe ask for some pictures of the style you have. You brought it new?? Or maybe a member has the same one.Just to make sure you get it right. Speaking of right,may not be a bad idea to take a few pictures of the mill so if you have "help" again you can get it right after the fact.

[ladylake]

That may be the prob, I didnt know the roller had to be behind the blade.....And what do you mean by down pressure if you dont mind me asking for I am a noob.

Down pressure is real important on a bandsaw, to set down pressure tension your blade without the guide rollers touching the blade then set the guide rollers so they push the blade down 1/4".  Some mills use 2 small bearing to hold the blade down and 1 behind the band to keep the band from going to far back, others use a guide wheel with a flange on the back . Both should be 3/16 to 1/4 behind the back of the blade with the blade tensioned, too close the blade will bend around them and crack in the front, too far back the blade will deflact too much too the rear and crack in the back.  Steve

[learner]

Thank you ladylake!  I've been wondering about that!  The WM book says 1/8th between the blade and roller flange.  It's vague on the down pressure.  At least for me it is.  I'm trying to get the best from our mill without pushing it too hard.  This advice really helps.

[thecfarm]

I just kind guess with my thumb on down pressure. I was told to do this by Thomas. Must work,so far.

[tyb525]

On my LT10, the down pressure is not adjustable. Also, are you sure you got the guide rollers parallel to the bed, and the side to side angle right?

[learner]

How do you guess on the down pressure when the blades are tensioned thecfarm?  tyb525 what do you mean by side to side angle?  Do you mean the horizontal angle of the blade rollers to the blade?

[thecfarm]

According to tyb525,down pressure is the wrong word to use,sorry.  :-[  I just tighten the blade up and press down with my thumb to check the tension,not down pressure. I always called it that,not knowing that it really meant something else.

[strunk57]

Down pressure? is that the reason when i measured the band wheel the  East and west spokes  are set on 2" from the back plate, but when i measured North and south North was 2 1/8, and south was 1 7/8?

[losttheplot]

Down pressure is not adjustable on the Norwood sawmills.

Have you checked to see if your blade is still parallel to the log bunks?

[strunk57]

I want to add it is amazing the help and advice that is givin on here, I feel very comfortable continuing work with my saw mill just because of this site, And also keeps me motivated to work harder to be a good sawyer.  Thanks again guys im sure you will hear from me again.

[strunk57]

Lost the plot, I have not, i will check this first thing in the morning

[scully]

You said your helper was starting to take the wheels off ? did he loosen the bolts that hold the tracking ? sounds like the drive side is wayyyyy out ? just a guess on what I have read ?

[losttheplot]

Use a couple of 2x4's as feeler gauges, one on each side of the bunk.
Lower the mill head and the band should touch them both at the same time.

Hope you get it figured out.

[strunk57]

scully he was loosening the bolt that held the blade guide, then they moved and i wasnt sure where to set them, i was just tensioning the blade and setting them flush with the back stop flange, then when i went to saw the drive side was going under the back stop.


What i plan on doing tomorrow is

1. Setting the guides 1/8" apart from the flange to the back edge of the blade.
2. Check that the blade is parallel to the log bunk.
3. Start sawing from the small end of the log instead of the big end, A tip i learned from another post on sawing ERC.

[redbeard]

A torpedo level one that's magnetic is good tool to have. Use it to level the face of your guide rollers try to get them as level (plumb) as possible. Then adjust your rollers evenly in or out so back of blade is same distance away from flange.( recommended by manual). When you get your down pressure where you like it check blade level with torpedo between the guide rollers make sure you check with guide roller all the way in and all the way out. Level deck level blade and Sharpe blade gets you perfect boards.

[drobertson]

I'm know nothing about the norwood mills, the wmz mills however I know a lil about, and to adjust them takes a lil time and study. everything is adjustable with the wmz mills, slow and steady is the key, with a touch of common sense and some form of a blade alignment tool, unless the eye is really close. the main issue with adjusting the blade from the rollers is the other adjustment that envolves the cam followers that controll the carrage.  It just takes time and perseverance. I never have believed in luck, but sometimes luck has its place when logs need to be cut.  Numbers never lie, straight boards are the fruit of the labor.  It is nearly impossible to describe the proccess without being there to do it.  Patience, Patience, Patience, as an ole horse trainer use to say,   david

[5quarter]

Strunk...The back of your blade should never touch the flange (backstop) on the roller guide. With your blade tensioned, pull your roller guides back until there is 1/4 to 3/8" between the flange and the back of the blade. If the blade is forced to ride on the flange as its cutting, the rollers will lose some control over the blade. if it takes a dive, I can see it wanting to climb over the flange.
Do your guides have the shaft centered on the roller guide or offset? if it is offset, you will have some adjustability in the amount downbearing. Hope you can get back to sawing tomorrow.

[strunk57]

5quarter, my shafts are centered, but however are a little loose.

[losttheplot]

Are the shafts loose in their mounting holes, or are the guide rollers loose on the shafts?

Perhaps the bearings in the roller are worn.

[strunk57]

Loose in the mounting holes