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proper use of the wedge

Started by OneWithWood, April 13, 2004, 09:47:01 AM

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OneWithWood

I was going to ask this question on the directional felling thread but I thought it might be better as another thread.

What is the proper technique for using wedges when felling?  or How do you insert wedges before you cut the strap?  I generally use two wedges, one on either side of the strap and work them alternately to get the tree to move in the direction intended.  How do you pros do it?  A good plastic wedge lasts for about four trees before I have destroyed it so there probably is a better way. ::)

I have had good success in getting the moderate leaners to go where I want them to go without a bull rope.  The heavy leaners either get roped or I take them where they are generally headed if I can.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Rob

   The way I use wedges when trying to fall leaners is I do use two like you say I first cut the notch in the direction I want it to fall , the I bore cut from the notch back leaving more wood on either side as needed or a straight hinge , I cut up to the back of the tree leaving a 1 - 2 " strap of holding wood insert a wedge on each side or on just the heavy lean side and beat them in and then to"avoid" cutting into the wedge cut the strap a inch below where I stopped cutting that way the tree will release itself without you cutting into a wedge. But there are other various ways this is just one way I do it I'm sure others will have insight as well . I hope this helped answer the question.

                                 Rob

slowzuki

I'm a newbie with the wedge and there isn't much left of mine that I've only used a dozen times or so but I've learned! (Note this is for 12-24" dbh trees, haven't used a wedge on much bigger!)

1. Getting the wedge as far away from the hinge as possible works best (ie 90 deg to it)
2. Boring a hole from the rear to insert the wedge is awkward.
3. Boring a hole from the front to insert the wedge in rear is awkward.
4. Notching, then boring parallel to the hinge, then swinging out to 90 deg+ a bit lets me insert the wedge in a good spot and I only have to work near it 1/2 as much as option 2 and 3. Just cut the one sided strap careful not to damage hinge.

I don't know if this is right or wrong but since starting to do #4 I haven't hit the wedge, Knock on wood!
Ken

Kevin

The further back you make your hinge on the tree the easier it will be to wedge.
Easier on you and your wedges.
They are very handy when bucking the logs as well keeping your bar from being pinched in the kerf.
There are different qualities of wedges so get some good ones and they'll last longer.
This seems to be one tool that many try and get by without but they are a real asset.
It depends on what the tree is doing or what I want to make it do when using the wedges, I always feel the bar in the kerf and watch for any movement while making the felling cut.

Woodhog

I used wooden wedges (maple or oak) all winter.

That way I dont have to worry about losing them, it only takes a few seconds to point them up, for pounding I also cut about
a 3 inch piece of maple around 2.5 feet long.
I put the first one in as soon as possible after starting the
back cut to make sure the saw doesnt get pinched if the tree
tips back, if it wont fall with the first wedge pounded a bit I
put in the second around the middle of the cut and pound hard
on both. If it still wont come down I pull it down with the winch and snatch block, a cable only about 7 feet up will usually
finish falling a real big tree that has already been wedged.

This is in the size wood you mentioned....

Larry

On a tree leaning backwards I put the holding wood on the light side of the tree off center and put the first wedge in at 90 degrees to the hinge to get the most power.  Always try to get as many wedges in as I can.  On a bigger tree that might be 5 or 6.  Got a short handle 5 pound sledge to hit them with.  Always do it in rotation and when you hear the wedge "ring" go to the next one.  You have to think a little bit because sometimes the tree won't go over and you need room to put in a second wedge to double up.

For the most part I use the 12" cheap mail order  wedges  and order a dozen at a time.  Pick up a couple of the Stilh 10" wedges at the chain saw shop once in a while to keep him happy.  For backup I have a couple of steel wedges and a 12 pound sledge in the truck.  When the 12 pound sledge comes out I can figure a wedge or two is going to bite the dust. ::)
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

oldsaw-addict

I would just as soon make my own wedges, its a bit easier to make em yourself from scrap steel that seems to be just sitting around, I can just take a cut off saw, a torch and the steel and cut then weld a nice heavy duty felling wedge. The advantage is that you can even take wedges and weld 2-3 together if you need to.
Let there be saws for all mankind!

Kevin

The thing about steel wedges is they are intended for splitting wood and can put a saw chain in a world of hurt.
Be sure to wear glasses with whatever you're using.

chet

There is another problem with using steel wedges for felling, and it has to do with cold weather. Steel wedges have a VERY bad tendency to bounce out of the saw kerf in freezing temperatures.   :o
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

slowzuki

I'll second the no steel, I can buy 2 or 3 plastic wedges for the price of a chain!  My nice fancy stihl brand wedge ain't got such a pretty face now!  The MS260 got a little jealous one day, I'd swear to it.

I suppose if the tree is cut and you are just adding backup wedges to tip it they're be fine.  Can wail on them harder than the plastic ones for some stress relief if the tree doesn't go!

QuoteThe thing about steel wedges is they are intended for splitting wood and can put a saw chain in a world of hurt.
Be sure to wear glasses with whatever you're using.

Kevin

You can buy a plastic felling wedge with a steel insert for pounding on.

tony_marks

  well its just me not understanding what the strap is, probably..
  but i hope the strap,,u mentioned cutting is not the hinge.. u dont cut that,, to finish u fell ,,do u.

slowzuki

Tony, if to make your notch, then bore to form your hinge, it leaves wood at the back of the tree.

This holds the tree while you're friggen around and keeps the saw from being pinched.  Means you can cut a nice hinge without having anything move.

Then when done you cut the strap.  I think people do this to prevent barber chairs and splits in some trees as well.  I've used it on core rotted trees as the strap stays in good wood.

I've seen links to pics on here but a quick search left me empty handed? Maybe someone knows the key words!
Ken

OneWithWood

Great replies fellas.  I use my Collins felling axe (short handled axe) to drive the wedges.  Often I will lean up against the tree so I can feel the tree begin to move while I am driving the wedge.  I have been using Stihl 7" and 10" wedges.  I seem to have a tendency to break a chunk out of the pointed end.  I think it gets stressed when I drive the wedge.  I usually do not hit the wedge with the chain - the operant woed being usually.
I like the idea of placing the strap a bit off center so the wedge can be centered.  Would you use a slightly thicker strap when doing this?
How do you add a wedge below or above another wedge to get more lift?  Or do you leave a space beside it to add two doubled up wedges?
What is the advantage of a textured face wedge over a smooth face?  Is it for cold weather?
Is wedge use covered in Cutter III or Cutter IV training?
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Rob

     To answer a few more questions or atleast try .. To add more wedges above or below to get more lift simply bore cut in directly above or below where the first wedge will be and insert the first one then tap it in and then you insert the others as needed. As for the difference between textured and smooth wedges the smooth tend to want to slide out of their placement more than a textured wedge , the textured hold their position better. Wedging is usually covered by all logger traing courses so you should be all set there.. Just remember wedging timber is a art takes practice just like everything else. You can truly work wonders with a few wedges

                                       Rob

Frickman

OWW, when stacking two wedges try to orient them at 90 degrees to each other. Alternate pounding each one. If you stack them aligned with each other as you pound one in the other will tend to come back out. If you need more lift than two wedges can provide you probably need another plan for felling the tree.

As Rob said wedges should be covered in all cutter training classes. I went through GOL back in 1994 and it was discussed in all four levels. GOL is a great program, even for experienced cutters. Anyone who has a chance to go should.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

tony_marks

 thanks ken . i shouda realized what he was talkin.. so thats called the strap. learn somethin new every day. thanks again

Larry

OWW,
When I took cutter 3, everybody put a tree over backwards with wedges.  The teach showed how to double up and few more tricks.  Cutter 4 was big trees ;D ;D that the bar wouldn't reach through and a lot on bucking and limbing.

Next time you buy a wedge try one of the 12" ones.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

OneWithWood

I hope to complete Cutter III and IV this fall.  Sounds like fun!
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Kevin

There are wedges designed with a rail system that lock into one another and can be driven in line on top of one another.


OneWithWood

One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

rebocardo

> Often I will lean up against the tree so I can feel the
> tree begin to move while I am driving the wedge.

I do this too, mostly on small trees, though I lean with my left hand and hammer with my right so I am standing about as far from the tree as possible. Though there is no weight on my hand, all on my feet.

Though if I think the tree is going to go or barberchair, I stand way back off to the most unlikely side it is going to fall and hit it with a long handled sledge hammer.

Most of the time I drive wedges, once the tree has started to lift, I walk safely away and wait a minute or so and let gravity take its course. Especially if I hear cracking. Might take a minute or two, but, the tree usually comes down by itself at that point.

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