How to Build a Sawbuck?

[Mark M]

I need to build a sawbuck to hold my slabs and edgings so I can cut them into firewood with my chainsaw but can't quite remember how they are made. Last time I used one was about 40 years ago when I was helping my Grandpa cut up cookstove wood. Does anyone have a picture or a good plan?

Thanks
Mark

[Lem]

 Mark,The simple ones[Grandpa style] used for firewood are basically two "X"s connected together w/ longitudnal pieces attached on the outside of the "X" just below the cross point.The legs of the "X"s can be connected at their intersection permenently or w/ a single bolt.Connecting w/ a simple bolt allows you to fold the legs of the "X" for storing or moving.I have one built by my Dad 'bout 1962 and used in the wood shed and out in the woods since then...it is of the folding type.
 made from DFir 2x3s [30"+/-].and 1x6s,[36"+/-].
  This type is best for "round" logs and not that great for sawing "flat stock"...though usable of course.
  When I've had "flat stock" to cut in any quantity I have used a temporary "table" made from an old 2x12,or what ever,'bout 12' long w/ a 2"  lip,[fence], on the working or saw side.The lip must be nailed to the table at intervals to allow the saw to cut thru the "flat stock" and yet leave the lip attached... the lip cut locations can be layed out to what ever length you want your stove wood.In cutting a goodly pile of slabs I ended up w/ about 3/8" cuts into the table..your dexterity may vary  ;D    See no reason why you couldn't make the lip higher and allow cutting of stacked slabs IF you have reasonably straight edges on one side .
  One day when I was using the table,and had run outta slabs so grabbed a few stray 2"-4" limbs to cut up.  The local constable stopped up to the farm to say hello..asked me what I was doing.."cutt'n firewood",I said.."Really?" he said....Ayuh....."*DanG,[ :D :D,you engineers are all alike ya gotta have a tolerence to work to !!"...I straight faced...Ayuh,plus/minus 1/16".....he just shoock his head.Every now-and-then he reminds me of that day ... :
 Lem
  

[shopteacher]

Be easier to take 10 $1 bills, that makes a sawbuck. ;D

Had to revise that Stan, after reading your post.

[Stan]

Dem's awful cheap sawbucks Teach, although I agree they ain't worth much.  :

[redpowerd]

file off all rakers and hit the wood with the barnose :D
SAWBUCK
please dont do that ;)

i usually make them in the woods if one aint handy
notch 3 xs together, identical and TIGHT
join with a piece notched across the bottom crotches, TIGHT

if too rickety, use smaller crossbracing at bottom
I ususally leave them in the woods

[Fla._Deadheader]

Cain't hep it  : :  

  Why would anyone need a sawbuck???????

  If the slabs are on the ground, kick 'em kinda even on one end and saw through the stack???

  Pickin 'em up 2 er 3 times is more work than required.

  Maybe yer wantin to start a colonial village type dealy  : : ;D ;D

[Jonas]

Stanley used to make sawbuck gadgets that all you had to do was add the 2X4s.  Being an Andy Rooney type of guy, I amass all kinds of junk and those gadgets are some of it.  They work ok but not much for cutting short pieces of firewood.  I also made a table and added a lip to it to keep the chunk from performing a do-it-yourself sex change on me when the saw grabbed it.  
I agree that lifting the wood to the table is pain, and I don't use the table much.  I generally carefully cut the pieces while they are lying on the ground being careful not to cut through to the ground and dulling the chain.  Now that I sometimes use the 24 inch bar saw instead of the 20 inch one, I hit the dirt too often.  But I sure learned how to use a file on the chain when out cutting wood.
Those lever peaveys that lift the wood off the ground are too much trouble to use.
There ought to be a better way and I'm open to whatever other folks do.    

[J_T]

I cut long peices of fire wood haul them home on log truck unload with end loader drive up to back door and saw em up on the forks. How that for less handling FD ???

[Mark M]

Fla - my logs and scraps are in the parking lot and it's made of cement. I know my limitations when it comes to hitting the ground or any other thing I've stacked the scraps on (including my sawmill and sawlogs).   Also my wife doesn't like holding them edgings that are waving around when I try to cut them. And the final reason: I'll get to make new friends when the neighbors stop by to ask what the heck that thing is with the x's fastened together. :D

Thanks for the replys, anyone got any pictures?

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Being as how them slabs are flat on one side, first thing I would do, is, lay 3 whatevers on the ground to pile them slabs on. That way, that would give ya some room for sawing through the stack and still leave the slabs off the ground for sawing into pieces.

  When we had the BIG mill, I used 2--6 X 8's that had 2 boards nailed to the bottom to space them apart, and bent 4 grader blade bits to form 90° pieces, and lagged them in place. Then you could band the slabs OR saw them for firewood.

  This any help Stinky  ??? : :D :D :D

  I believe them sawbucks was kinda low, so's ya could put yer wood in and put yer foot on the wood, so the sawing motion wouldn't jerk the wood off'n the frame. There was 2 pieces of board nailed inside the top "X", so the short pieces won't drop through while gettin the last cut finished.

  Man, that was a loonnnngg time ago that I remember that.

  Why can't I remember what happened yesterday or "who am I"  : : ;D :D :D

[Mark M]

Probably cause you're getting dizzy from all the spinning everytime someone flushes the toilet :D

That frame outfit gives me some ideas. Thanks Fla!

[Fla._Deadheader]

 :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

  If ya build 2 "X's", you can support the "trough" with 2--4" boards, leavin a space for crap to fall through. Put the cross bracing from top of one X to bottom of the other X. Do the same on the other side and yer frame won't wobble, (unless ya got the legs un even). In that case, proceed to cut the leg(s) off on the bottom, and before ya know it, yer frame WILL BE short enough to reach. : :D :D :D :D :D :D

[OneWithWood]

I fashioned a unit using a 4x6  8 foot cant as the base.  I attached 2x2 uprights on both sides, 2 every 18" with a space about twice the width of the bar on the chainsaw.  When I pull the slabs I pile them in however they best fit.  When the thing is full I run the saw between the uprghts, the cant absorbs the bottom cut.  The only problem is with real heavy slabs like a big white oak cause I made the uprights higher than waist height.  Once sawn it is easy to pick the slabs and scrap out and heave in the cart to transport over to the stove.  The only cost is the nails, everything else was scrap.

[pappy]

Mark,
Happy belated B-Day, sorry I'm late. 50    ???

Anyhoo here are some pics of the cross-buck I use.

The legs are 1 1/2"t X 3 1/2"w X 42" L  wh. spruce. The cross members are 1"t X 3 1/2"w X 28"L wh maple.  The legs are dadoed (3/4" d X 3 1/3" w) 16" up from the toe of the leg and bolted together, the cross members are bolted underneath where the legs cross.

End view;


Upside down view


In this pic I didn't have any slabs to demo cause I can't saw yet :(  still to much mud,  so I used a piece of one by. To mark my lengths I use a 4 foot sticker with 16" increments and a log marking chalk.


The cross-buck is setup for 8' material but if you have longer slabs I suggest adding another set of cross legs.

I stack my first slabs, sawed face against the legs, centered on the buck,then stack level with the top of the legs.  Mark where the cuts should be, cut off one end of the slabs then the other and I work my way toward the center.  I do this so the cross buck doesn't tip over.  It also helps to alternate butt flares from one side to another when stacking to keep the buck from tipping.

When I start my cut I start from the opposite side of the stack, rocking the chainsaw tip downwards, the saw helps hold the wood in place and it's like cutting a log.  Watch you don't cut the legs and the cross members.  Works real well as the pieces fall one on top of another after you saw through, makes it easy to pick up a bunch at a time and toss into my trailer . Sometimes I set the buck in the trailer if it's big enough.  

We sell a pickup box for $10

pappy

[Stan]

While tripping through the woodyard today, an idea jumped up and smacked me on the forehead. The ramp I use to elevate firewood up to the level of the wedge on my splitter might work for you. The I beams are actually the tongues off of a doublewide. The legs at the far end are where the hitch was, and the rest is the other tongue seperated from the hitch and welded together length wise. If you wanted you could use two sets of legs and a shorter top.

[Haytrader]

I was thinkin that Electric Al (or someone) posted a picture of an apparatus they stacked slabs in to cut to firewood length. It had slots to put your chainsaw in to get the desired lengths. If I remember right, this was a table sort of thing capable of being moved by a fork lift.

Or did I have a dream?     :-/

[Frank_Pender]

Haytrader, I have such a device that you described.  It hold 1/4 of a cord of material that is at least 8' long.  It is built such that it can be picked up with the fork attatchement for my loader and then also dumps as if the bucket for the loader was attatched.   I use it for the larger material that may come off the mill and the smaller is chipped with my 3 point Valby.

[Haytrader]

Sorry Frank, knew it was someone on here.

 ;)

[pappy]

Haytrader it weren't no dream the woodchucker has what I think you talking about


Link

[Haytrader]

Saved me there termite.
Grac i ous
I knew I had seen a picture some time back.

Since we had a mild winter and cut more firewood than we used, we have been helping some stumps burn with our slab pile.