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keeping logs from cracking

Started by xlogger, March 10, 2013, 12:52:44 PM

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xlogger

I'm starting to build up a little pile of White oak logs and will not get around to sawing for awhile. Would painting the ends with just regular paint help from cracking or what would be the best to do? I have one red oak that I've cut into a cant and put under a shed and it must of cracked about a foot or more into the cant.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Charles

I've never coated the ends with paint but I know it's been done. I would stick with the regular end coating. I use it and it does a fantastic job and have never had a problem with cracking

Al_Smith

Paint is better than nothing .Roofing tar probabley is best,driveway sealer, foundation coating  etc .You won't stop all of it but you can deter it some .You can't fiddle around too long though .Get it coated in a timely manner .

You just need to remember before it's milled to cut a cookie off the end and reseal it with wax like stuff ,Anchorseal type .If you cut through the tar it will streak the lumber and make an awfull mess .The cookies, tar and all make a good fire to drive off mosquitoes .About like burning an old tire .

The local hardwood mills don't do anything to them .Just cut about a foot off each end and saw them .

xlogger

I just pickup 6 more nice logs this morning that already show a little sign of cracking is it too late?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Al_Smith

Well it probabley would at least save some of it if you  sealed them .Oh it's not a total loss especially on free logs .What doesn't get turned into lumber still makes fire wood .

mesquite buckeye

Cracked just on the ends or the whole log?

I like to use the reflective white roof coating for logs. Seals real nice and no wax residue.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Ianab

Quote from: xlogger on March 10, 2013, 02:17:36 PM
I just pickup 6 more nice logs this morning that already show a little sign of cracking is it too late?

If the end checking has started it's probably a waste of time to seal them now. Just plan on trimming 6" off the ends of the boards after they dry.  I mean you could trim that 6" off now, and reseal the uncracked ends, but you end up in the same place, with a more work....

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

xlogger

Free logs I wish :D I got a small logger friend that clears lots and bring all his wood home till he gets a full load to take to mill. I buy some of his white oak and cedar. The logs are cut cross tie lenght 17'6" and I only pay for 16'. So I do have room to trim back to make 16 ft boards. What worries me most are the 8 and 12 ft logs.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

WDH

I found paint not totally useless, but close.  The aluminum roofing paint works good, but it is awful messy unless you like permanent roofing paint stains on all your boots, shoes, and clothes.  It is awful to clean up, too.  The original anchorseal is wonderful, dries clear so that you can see the orientation of the growth rings, and cleans up easily in water.  Call UC Coatings and you can get the original (better) formula.  If you order it from the website, you get the new "green" formula (green as in environmental green, not the color green). 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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