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Stick framing, lean to, dug on a hill side?

Started by Satamax, March 07, 2013, 02:18:03 AM

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Satamax

Hi guys.

Well, i went to see a customer yesterday.  And he would like me to replace an old shed with a lean to bedroom. Pretty simple stuff, exept that the end of the actual shed is in the mud and rocks of a hill side, something like a yard underground. Over 16 long.

Plan is to do stick framing pannels, osb on the exterior.  Small slab underneath, may be a french drain at the end of the slab. But what would you do extra, to protect the OSB from the mud? I was thinking heavy tarred felt  (we use adepar TM for example) Then a layer of delta MS for example. Well, sory guys, if thoses products are not usual. I'm French ;D

Thanks for any help.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Ianab

I'd be putting a low concrete block wall in the buried part. Seal that, put in some drainage around the exterior and back fill it. Then build the rest in wood?

It's a common enough technique here in NZ if a house is being built into a hillside. The basement will be a concrete slab, and concrete walls built up to the soil level.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Jay C. White Cloud

Hi Satamax,

I'm guessing this being a paying job, that you have some time and fiscal restraints.  I would do it in stone, but Ian's advice is the quickest and most cost effective.  You don't even need to mortar the blocks, you can lay them up quick and use a surface bonding agent. "Earth Ship" architecture is often built this way. (i.e. author: Rob Roy)  Your challenge in my mind is the drainage,  the outside portion should have a water proof finish and back fill with gravel.  From here I have no advice as I try to avoid OSB like the plague, unless I get if for free or near free, then I only use in as maybe a sub floor or backing material to a natural product.  The frame work would of course be a timber frame... ;D
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

Satamax

Thanks a lot guys.
Thanks for your advice. Ian, i'm no bricky!  ;D   Well, i gonna do it my way, get a mini digger, dig further than needed, make a smidge bigger slab, and a kind of retaining wall with shuttering blocks and rebar; then make my stick framing as i would have. Extra cost is only about 2000 dolls. I bet the guy will be happy to have proper work done. Am around the 16000 euro's mark for all that, and he's finishing the exterior with old wood panneling himself.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Satamax

French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Rooster

Hey,

What are you going to do with all that water coming off of the roof...when it's up against and trapped between the block wall and the exterior wall of the building?

Pool maybe?  haha

Rooster
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

Satamax

Rooster, good point, well, i will put a gutter at the end of the roof which will carry the water away. And put a slight outwards slope in the concrete too. Mind you, do you think i should lay a layer of blocks underneath the stick framing too? I was yhinking of "welding" a layer of tar felt at the bottom of the stick framing,  sloping onto the slab too.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

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