going electric now

[Kingcha]

Well I am almost a month away from ordering my mill  wm lt15 stationary unit.    Originally I had planned on a 10 hp diesel but now that I have decided to locate the mill closer to my pole barn and my electrical source I am 90% sure I will go with the 10hp 230 volt single phase motor.

I plan on running wire(6g) to on outlet out near the mill on a 50 amp breaker.   Then run a cord rated cord to the mill.   I will have to look how other's suspend the cord.   Any thoughts???

Anyone want to talk me out of going electric.

thanks
I have spent the last hour searching this forum on electric motors and think I have a fair grasp on it.

[thecfarm]

No,I will not talk you out of electric. I think you only plan on using your mill off and on? I brought my mill before I knew about this great place. I only use my off and on. Sat once for 3 years.  : I should of went electric instead of a gas motor. Most times mine only gets used for whatever building project I need and than it sits again.

[Kingcha]

I actually hope that I will use it often, at least on a weekly or bi-weekly basis but not full time.   But I will not be using it through the winter months.   I guess it really will depend on what if any market I can find.

I really do need to generate some income so hopefully I will find some sort of market that I can tap into.

[Autocar]

Here in Ohio most power companys put demand meters on there commerical customers and the way they work when you throw the switch the meter registers the amperage hit and even though it was only for a few seconds, that will be what your bill is based on for the month. My personnal opinion I would go with the diesel.

[hackberry jake]

I think it would be awesome to have a stationary electric mill. You could build an insulated building around it and kill in the winter months if you wanted and just open the doors and windows in the summer. Cheaper and more reliable than internal combustion plus they have more torque.

[Kingcha]

This is not commercial property and I don't have a demand meter thankfully.

I do have another question about turning it on and off.   I was assuming I would have a switch located at the outlet???   and what about turning if off and on between cuts and turning the log?     

[terrifictimbersllc]

There's probably a recommendation for the max frequency the motor ought to be turned on and off.  An only 2HP Baldor on my dust collector says not more than about 5 times per hour.   If WM doesn't know you can probably look up the make and model and get the manual/spec sheet online.

[hackberry jake]

You could use a clutch like combustion engines and just let it run between cuts (without the blade spinning). It would probably use less electricity as well, they pull a lot of amps on startup.

[Cedarman]

We have 25HP and the motor has a start amp then kicks up to full in a few seconds. We shut off  if we are not going to saw for a few minutes.  Has over 14,000 hours on the motor and starter box.
Everything is just like a gas engine.  Key start, clutch etc. Battery for 12V , alternator.
Love my electric WM
Your 10 HPmay be different.  Manu. should have specs on starting and stopping.  We have a 12' ceiling with a drop cord centered about 4 to 5 feet left of the walking side of the mill.  This drop cord goes to a wooden post that was shaped to fit in the top of the mill support post.  Have worked on the cord once since 1996 when we put the mill in.  We also have a 110 cord  from the ceiling box to the mill.  We can operate an electric chainsaw or have extra lights.
An electric chainsaw is great inside a sawmill.

[Finn1903]

Electric would be a good way to go if you don't plan to move your mill. 
Once you get up and sawing you may want to run the motor even when you are returning the head and turning the log. 
By keeping the motor running you would save money on your electric bill and wear on your motor from starting.  The inrush current from starting is what wears the electric motors, they like to run, just like a diesel. 

[dboyt]

Sounds like you've got a good handle on the logistics.  You might look at a "soft start" system.  Pulls less amperage (easier on the motor, and won't dim your house lights), but spinning up the blade takes a little longer.  If I were stationary, I'd use electric, especially if milling in an enclosed area, which I'd love to do in the winter.  A portable generator, and you're good to go anywhere!  Putting a clutch on the blade might help some, but the bulk of the power goes into getting the bandwheels turning, and you'll still have that, even if you keep the motor "idling" between cuts.

[flyboy16101]

As far the cord going from the outlet to your mill I have scene serveral set ups for exhust hose that seam to work well. A steel cable is run the length of the building with a bunch of small pulleys on it. The exhust hose is conected every 5 or 6 feet to a pully so it keeps the slack from piling up the on the floor. I imagine that this would also work for your power cord.

[customsawyer]

I would recommend the electric. They are usually cheaper to buy (although 10hp single phase maybe not) and they are cheaper to maintain. You never have to change the oil, air or fuel filters.

[wesdor]

I also recommend the electric motor - just bought the LT15 with this motor. 

It is in my metal building and I intend it to be permanent.  The electric is wired into a box on a post about halfway down the track to the right of the mill.  Have 25 feet of wire that allows for a full cut on the mill.

It is very quiet and of course no fumes.  As others have observed, you can cut all winter in comfort and then open doors in summer.

A fellow with an LT70 and big Diesel engine has cut for me in the past and while his mill is awesome, it is also very loud and lots of fumes. 

Good luck on reaching a decision. Enjoy whatever mill you get.

[Kingcha]

Thanks all.   I think I understand much more now and I am sure I will go electric.   I can't wait until the snow melts and I can get started on prepping the area.

I like the wire idea, I think I have seen that setup somewhere online.   

[drobertson]

If you are not going to move the mill then by all means get the electric, this is a no brainer, how ever, I was always of the opinion that these mills were just right for packing up and moving to remote areas for sawing when moving logs was out of the question.  In any case it would be nice to hear the blades cutting rather than the fuel burning, 

[Larry]

I think electric is an excellent idea.  Cheaper and probably faster than the diesel.

Motor loads have special rules for breaker size.  Entirely different than ranges, dryers, and welders as those are resistive loads.  Check with WM or an electrician for correct breaker size before buying.  Big breakers are expensive.

[outerbanxer]

As far the cord going from the outlet to your mill I have scene serveral set ups for exhust hose that seam to work well. A steel cable is run the length of the building with a bunch of small pulleys on it. The exhust hose is conected every 5 or 6 feet to a pully so it keeps the slack from piling up the on the floor. I imagine that this would also work for your power cord.

Exactly...a simple zip line with small pulleys. A dog tie out is available at many big box stores (lowes or home depot) for 25 dollars, then get a few small pulleys and zip tie them to the power cord every four or five feet.  And if I may suggest, get the most malleable wire you can find and make sure it's secured a foot away from each connection. Some di-electric grease on the connection points wouldn't be a bad idea either.

[bandmiller2]

I have had boath gasoline engine and now electric on my bandmill,electric motors have balls and torque gas engines only dream about.You will have a cleaner more pleasant workplace and can add electric acessaries easily in the future. Cold weather starting is a piece of cake. Frank C.

[Kingcha]

Ok you all voted, I'll go electric  8) 8)    A 10hp 230 single phase

I only have one more  ??? (yeah right).

I understand the wire sizing, I'll be  using 6g  but all my reading on the breaker sizing has left wondering.

I keep seeing that many use a 50 amp but because of the 80% rule you should use a 60 amp breaker.......but that is where I get lost.  I have read 60 amp minimum up to a 100 amp.

So does anyone out there have this setup and what size breaker do they use?????  At this point I am planning on using a 60 amp breaker. 

It appears that 80 & 100 amp breakers jump in cost.  An extra $30-$40 depending on brand.   

[york]

Kingcha,on your wiring have you talked to a pro.yet??

How far from your load center,is your mill??

albert

[Kingcha]

I am not licensed but I have done my share of wiring......I have a couple of houses under my belt.   I will measure my run once the snow melts and I get "Out Back"  but I am guessing  the run will be about 50 feet(or less) to the outlet, then about a 25' cord attached to the motor.

I figured I could find a few pro's here that would know.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Recommend over-sizing your wire gauge by at least one size from what you calculate or is recommended.  Wire is cheaper than a new motor.

[wesdor]

I'll check and see what size breakers I have when I get home tonight.

Took pictures of my setup with the phone, but flash was not enough to provide a viewable photo - it was all grey.

In my case I had the electrician that wired our house do the install.  Total cost was just about $500.  I'm not the kind of electrician you are.

[Kingcha]

Thanks in advance wesdor

I can usually figure things out if I can find the info.   
At  50(under)+25(cord) for the run I won't get a huge drop, only about  3.5 volt drop.   So I think the wire sizing is correct.  I will have to see what the cost difference in 6/3 and 4/3 underground wire is.