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blades for cutting yard trees

Started by thecol, February 25, 2013, 07:52:35 PM

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thecol

what is a good blade for cutting yard trees with medal in them

bandmiller2

Col,theirs no good blades to cut tramp metal.Its best to try and avoid it or at least cut around it.A good metal detector will help.Nails are usally not a big deal if you hit them at a right angle,their soft and will do minimal damage to a few teeth.Hard metal like drywall screws,files est will trash a band or blade. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

hackberry jake

Woodmaster "C" blades. They aren't any better at cutting metal but they are cheap  ;D
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

You always hit metal AFTER you put on a brand new sharp blade.

I've got to where when I hit metal.....it no longer bothers me. I just go with the flow.

But I do have some older resharp blades I use on suspect logs.

The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Brad_S.

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 25, 2013, 08:16:46 PM
Nails are usally not a big deal if you hit them at a right angle,their soft
I agree. If you stop after exiting your cut and examine your blade, you will usually see metal chards stuck to some of the teeth. Removing them with something like a chisel or screwxriver will buy you a few more passes.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

Satamax

There's few brands in germany who offer nagelfest, nagelfestes or nagelsicher  circular blades, which are meant to whistand stray metal in wood. I've cut rooves with one, metal, wood, nails etc, and it's still cuting. Biggest one is in the 70cm range.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on February 25, 2013, 08:20:41 PM
You always hit metal AFTER you put on a brand new sharp blade.


So it's not just me then....  :-\

Like David said, if you suspect metal, use an older blade that has been sharpened 5-6 times or more and is probably reaching the end of it's useful life anyway.

T Welsh

Most all my logs come from homeowners yards :o. If you saw enough logs with metal in them you begin to be able to see them in the log, stains,bumps,dimples,anything in the first 8' is highly suspect. As for finding them,put a new blade on you will find it right away :D. I do not worry about the blades,they are wear items and sometimes they get sacrificed. Most of the time they get dulled and you have to change out, very rarely they get broken beyond use. I dont baby the feed when I am sawing and I have hit some heavy metal and sawed right through it.

  Other times it will stop you dead in your tracks. ;D. Tim

yarnammurt

Quote from: hackberry jake on February 25, 2013, 08:19:38 PM
Woodmaster "C" blades. They aren't any better at cutting metal but they are cheap  ;D


Where do you buy yours.
ATS 10" Peterson, 09 New Holland 4x4 TL90 with loader, 125hp White,2 2009 Kawasaki 610 mules,

hackberry jake

Menominee saw (button on the left side of the screen) I believe woodmaster c and red streaks are the same price. (jakes silly oppinion follows) red streaks are better for clean logs but I think the woodmaster c would take a good metal strike better. They are designed for resaws so they are made tough but not made to be sharpened very many times. The woodmaster c-sharp is the one made for sharpening, they are more expensive.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

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