Timberking 1600

uklogskinner · February 23, 2013, 04:42:42 AM

I purchased a timberking 1600 about 9 mths ago.

I only use it for basic cutting and occasional hire. It has performed is some aspects very well and am impressed with the concept of the machine. However, 300hrs in (brand new machine) we have gone through our 3rd clutch.

I must admit the customer service has been very good, and they haven't quibbled about sending a new one. Indeed we now insist on keeping 1 always spare on our shelf, making for less down time. So that when the 3rd clutch went we were back up and milling within 2 hrs.

We are also having issues with the igis chain that contains the hydraulic pipes. It seems to small for purpose and gets stuck down the mud guard.

I was wondering if anyone else out there is having similar problems? I would also be interested in getting in contact with someone with a newer timberking 1600 than that of mine to see if they have changed the design.

ladylake · February 23, 2013, 06:12:43 AM

Are the clutches burning out or somethimg electrical? Are you turning the clutch off after each cut, if so I wouldn't. Do you engage the clutch at high RPM, I'd engage it at just above idle. On TK mills with rear controls I'd put a remote throttle on and leave the clutch engaged most of the time.. Steve

xlogger · February 23, 2013, 06:54:11 AM

I might cut my blade off too much also, but not had a problem so far :-\. When I stop it to remove a slab, I cut it off after slowing the throttle down with my remote throttle control. Maybe I should stop doing that also. I'd like to hear from Larry and others with their TK's to hear more about this or what they do. Ricky

ladylake · February 23, 2013, 07:26:28 AM

I'g guess engaging the clutch at full throttle would do the most damage plus be hard on everything else, how many hours on your mill Ricky. Steve

xlogger · February 23, 2013, 08:07:22 AM

over 300 I was wrong over 400

Ga Mtn Man · February 23, 2013, 08:43:30 AM

uklogskinner- Welcome to The Forestry Forum. I have seen a newer model 1600 and they are built very similar to the 2000, which is the model I have. I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with the energy chain, if that's what you are referring to by "igis chain". Can you explain a little further as to what trouble you are having with it?

My mill has about 320 hrs on it and still has the original clutch. The latest manual for the TK 2000 tells you to idle the engine before engaging or disengaging the blade I was already doing this. I think TK added that to the manual when they started offering a remote throttle control. I disengage my blade only if I'm going to be doing something that takes longer than 30-40 seconds or if I'm going to be anywhere near the blade.

TK has not made any significant changes to the 1600 in the 9 months you've had yours. As ladylake suggested, if you haven't already done so, I would strongly suggest that you add a remote throttle control to your mill. Here's how I did mine:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,57926.0.html

Kcwoodbutcher · February 23, 2013, 08:23:29 PM

I've been running my 1600 for eight years and hundreds of hours with no clutch problems. I usually engage at full throttle on just about every cut. Maybe they have a different one on the newer 1600s. The energy chain is a different story. Things are packed very tightly in it. I pull my slabs off that side and many drop onto the chain. I have what's left of it wired and screwed together and it's still working.

kensfarm · February 23, 2013, 11:48:49 PM

My Timberking 1600 is now 3 months old.. I've been sawing every weekend+. I also engage & disengage on full throttle.. no problems w/ the clutch or the hydro track. I have the new simple set works & Timberking has called me every 30 days to ask how everything is working. I've been cutting some dimesnional lumber lately (following MM's rules of dimensional lumber wisdom, thank you!).. I've never seen nicer 2x6's & 2x4's. My only problem are.. I can't keep up w/ all the stacking & stickering.. and my gloves smell like pine! ;D

xlogger · February 24, 2013, 05:51:12 AM

Kensfarm, tell me more about the new simple setworks they have. Does it work from the bottom (deck) of the cant or measure from the top? Ricky

TimGA · February 24, 2013, 07:59:22 AM

X-Logger, Was talking with Matt at TK last week. He says the new setworks will be able to read both ways top down, and bottom up. If that is true it would be great. He also said they are working on an adapter cable to connect the old system cable to the new setworks. Hopefully available in next 3-6 months.
Have TK2000 500hrs no clutch problems to date, just finished 8500bf job all 1x. Biggest problem I have is watching for random thick cuts when I see one I manual adjust then go on. No problem with Energy chain, also I always idle down when engaging or disengaging clutch.
Hope this helps all, Tim

xlogger · February 24, 2013, 09:05:59 AM

did you get a cost estimate

TimGA · February 24, 2013, 01:32:24 PM

Didn't talk cost why ruin my day, just glad that they are working on it.

ladylake · February 24, 2013, 04:08:40 PM

I'd quit engaging at full throttle, just has to be hard on everything. Steve

vfauto · February 24, 2013, 07:38:37 PM

Quote from: ladylake on February 23, 2013, 06:12:43 AM

Are the clutches burning out or somethimg electrical? Are you turning the clutch off after each cut, if so I wouldn't. Do you engage the clutch at high RPM, I'd engage it at just above idle. On TK mills with rear controls I'd put a remote throttle on and leave the clutch engaged most of the time.. Steve

I would do a voltage check at the clutch and check for voltage drop. Do this as you are engaging and disengaging. You may have a bad ground or bad connection somewhere.

kensfarm · February 24, 2013, 11:58:10 PM

Quote from: xlogger on February 24, 2013, 05:51:12 AM
Kensfarm, tell me more about the new simple setworks they have. Does it work from the bottom (deck) of the cant or measure from the top? Ricky

Hi Ricky.. the simple set works has only 3 buttons.

1) preset - you select from various pre-set sizes/thicknesses.. I use 1 inch & 1 1/2 the most.
2) set start position - push once you've set your first cut height.. it remembers this position even if you manually raise or lower the head.
3) auto down - after bringing the head back from a cut - push auto down and the head will go down "the set thickness" + 1/8 for the kerf.. from the start position.. and then from the last cut position every time after.

So if I'm set at 1 inch & I hit auto down 2x.. it will go down 2 2/8.. leaving me w/ 2 1/8 thickness. It's very precise.. speeds up your cutting.. makes having all your lumber the same thickness a non-issue. I wasn't going to add this feature at first... glad I did. I'll have to upload some new pictures I have.

xlogger · February 25, 2013, 05:18:30 AM

Sounds like what I have on my TK2000. Am I wrong guys?

ND rancher · February 25, 2013, 07:52:26 AM

I would guess there is a ground problem 1st then voltage. While I'm here with TK guys, can anybody get me a make and model number of there clutch? I want to install 1 on my B-20.Don't have time at present to sit on internet to look.I'm on around the clock maternity work.(cows) Keith

Ga Mtn Man · February 25, 2013, 01:19:29 PM

Quote from: xlogger on February 25, 2013, 05:18:30 AM
Sounds like what I have on my TK2000. Am I wrong guys?

xlogger, isn't this what you have on your mill?

TK refers to this as Super Setworks. It sounds like they are coming out with a simpler version for the smaller mills.

xlogger · February 26, 2013, 04:54:21 AM

Yes that's what I have, I called Matt yesterday to talk about board return and ask him about that also. They do have a new setworks and like Tim said are working on some cable to hook it up to our setworks now. He told me about what the cost will be, so maybe email me if anyone wants to know. Ricky

pinegrove · February 26, 2013, 05:24:11 PM

I was watching the promo video for the 1600, the log didn't roll onto the bed from the log loader. It had to be manual pushed on. Have any of you had that problem? What position is the log loader in for transport? Do any with the 1600 wish it had hydraulic up and down for the clamps?

Ga Mtn Man · February 26, 2013, 06:09:38 PM

The log may have been out of round or the mill not level. The loader arms normally come up just past level. TK does this to help prevent a heavy-handed operator from slamming a heavy log into the backstops. The loader arms fold onto the mill bed for transport.

pinegrove · February 27, 2013, 09:07:18 AM

That's what I was guessing, just wanted firsthand insight. Kind of a big purchase so I'm questioning everything

frye · March 27, 2013, 04:40:06 PM

Uklogskinner.....I know what you're talking about, I had the same problem with the energy chain falling between the fender and frame and also wearing a hole in the top of the fender so I made a cradle for it out of some nylon cutting board.I also noticed when I went to go Mount the cradle to the fender that the tire had started to rub a hole on the underside of the fender so I repainted and had to modify the fender a little bit so there would be no more tire rubbing on it.that was 1 of the first modifications I did to the saw mill rate when I got it, the other 1 was putting a Electric gas shut off valve on the coolant supply so that when I flipped the electric clutch on and off the lubrication drip system turned on and off with it also.

frye · April 02, 2013, 06:15:53 PM

Kensfarm...I'm on the waiting list for the setworks plus and I was just wondering from what you're saying, the first slab you cut off your log is the home position or set start position ? and then on your last bored, let's say a 2x8 from the center of the log is cut last along with a wast board because you will have to use your manual scales for the last board cut correct?

frye · April 02, 2013, 08:39:12 PM

this is the cradle I made out of cutting board to keep the energy chain from falling between the frame and the fender

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