LT 10 log clamp not holding.

Sixacresand · February 16, 2013, 08:04:42 PM

I recently added the new type log clamp to my WM LT10 because the one that came with it would not hold. Now the new one does not hold. The type I have comes on LT10 and LT15. Has anyone had any issues with their clamps slipping and not holding?

drobertson · February 16, 2013, 08:13:31 PM

Just asking, but could it be on backwards?

Compensation · February 16, 2013, 08:21:04 PM

Its installed correctly... hmmm do you have 2? I have 2 on mine. How many stakes do you use? Also when i use my clamps, i push them in down low since they rely on the bind caused by pushing back on the pin when you lock it.. All else fails and you want to sell it, let me know.

rimshot · February 16, 2013, 08:36:25 PM

Look carefully at the clamp. See that little notch right at the end of the slot. You have to get the handle all the way past that little bump in order to lock it in. Also, make sure clamp[ gets kick toward the bar it slides on or low to cause it to bind before throwing the handle to lock position.

When cuttimg the fourth side to a cant or when slicing the boards from a full cant I use no log clamps

rimshot

dgdrls · February 16, 2013, 10:01:40 PM

When I had my 10 I used two of these,
Sand the cross pipe with Emory paper
put a little ATF on the clamping mechanism
and go to full lock when using
that should help.

DGDrls

francismilker · February 17, 2013, 08:50:00 AM

I have issues with mine causing my cant to raise up off the bed about 1/4" when clamping a cant.

If I don't clamp the cant it starts wobbling and letting the cant move around too much for my comfort. I made a homemade clamp that I'll post pics of if I get home from work in time tonight to take a good pic. It helps out for holding the small, lightweight cants that tend to not be heavy enough to stay put.

dgdrls · February 17, 2013, 11:14:08 AM

Same challenge with mine FM,

Make sure your backstops are square to the bed with pressure against them.
Clamp as low was you can use shims to protect your cant
Sometime the saw will get to shaking and the clamp will drop,
two clamps are very helpful,

I also used the following technique:

Once started in the cut, place a wedge in the end behind the the cut
then walk down the cant as you cut without pinching the band,
or if you have a helper have them
hold it down.

Not the greatest system but it works and your always behind the sawhead.

DGDrls

dgdrls · February 17, 2013, 09:44:38 PM

Had a thought,

what if you drilled a hole in the side rail lower that the log bunk cross member's.
Or even use the cross members to secure a piece of steel running parallel
with the side rails,

Or looking again the bolt holding the clamp cross tube would work also

get a double tension door return spring and some chain of the same grade
as the door spring, fashion a "C" style hook to slip into a piece of the chain
Then use a MH hook or Pulp hook to pull against the chain and hook
the outside bottom of the cant.
then use your regular clamp if needed

DGDrls

Sixacresand · February 17, 2013, 10:32:11 PM

I think I got it fixed. One of the steel parts that the bar goes through was bent. I was able to bend it back straight with a cat claw. Evidently, I have been clamping too hard or tight and bent this part causing it to slip. I must be stronger than I feel.

Thanks every one who posted with their ideas and comments.

Clean Image · February 17, 2013, 11:15:24 PM

I have the same problem you guys are mentioning with the cant lifting up when I put a lot of pressure on the clamp...If I don't secure the clamp tight it has a habit of falling off when I pass by with the saw head, so you really have to get a feel for it.

I find it does help to lean over the cant from the operators side and put my weight on it to hold it down while I tighten the clamp, always visually checking real quick to make sure it didn't lift.

My old clamps seamed worn out and I was hoping the new design would be an upgrade but if hasn't worked out that way. May just take them off and put the old ones back on...

kvrspeeder · February 18, 2013, 03:35:17 AM

I have the older style clamp and it to loosens off,on my LT 10. As the head-rig pass's the clamp it vibrates off the clamp, also need to get a second log clamp to hold the log from shifting when going thou the cut.

drobertson · February 18, 2013, 09:43:21 AM

dgdris, I like your idea, and have thought many times of something like this, but with a boomer, for pulling down cants that want to bow up on the ends, I think this is an idea that can be modified to fit many applications, david

hunt22j · November 17, 2013, 02:12:33 PM

I have had trouble with my clamps from applying too much pressure when clamping them to the log. I actually seared the rear spacer in half which caused the clamp to not hold on the pipe. I took half of the spacer and put it back in the bracket to ride on the top of the pipe. This fix worked for a while until, you guessed it, I sheared it in half. I have since called WM as my unit is only 3-4 weeks old and they are sending me a replacement spacer (and an extra) to replace the broken one.

My thoughts on the cam lock design is that while it works, it is not a perfect solution. I think the turning motion to lock in the cam causes the wood to rise slightly off of the rails. Plus you cannot clamp with the "right" amount of pressure, it seems to be either too much pressure which leads to shearing the metal spacer, or its not enough and falls off mid cut. I think a solution may to be to come up with something using the threaded side of a set of 3/4" wood working pipe clamps. They have a nice handle and are threaded which would allow you to apply the necessary pressure without causing a problem. Instead of the blunt end, maybe come up with something with more of a point/ blunt end to help lock the clamp into place.

Just my thoughts....

Dad2FourWI · November 17, 2013, 07:01:21 PM

I picked up another of the old-style clamps and things are much better by using them both...

However, I too have noticed many times where the cant has been "lifted" up while tightening the clamps!!! I literally have to check every time to make sure the cant is still sitting flat!!

@ francismilker, I would like to see what you have come up with!!!

-Dad2FourWI

Happycamper · November 17, 2013, 07:56:35 PM

There are two bolts and nuts on the bottom of he clamp, tighten the nuts a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and it won't slip.

I made this second clamp last March when I first got the mill. Works well but only use it once in a while. I also strike a happy medium when clamping as it really doesn't take much pressure to hold the log in place, I too tried clamping hard but found that is not necessary and learned it will raise the log from the bed. Mizer wanted $120.00 for a second clamp.
Jim

francismilker · November 17, 2013, 08:10:43 PM

happycamper I like your clamp. You never know what kind of ingenuity you'll find on FF from day to day.

rimshot · November 18, 2013, 08:16:38 AM

I guess I am lucky because my clamp has worked well and I have had lots of logs pass through myi LT10. The clamp has been quite effective but I always take a minute and site the previous cut to see how the flat part of the cut lays along the horizontal brace on the log deck. If I see the first cut is not quite parallel to bed brace BECAUSE the lock is tilting the log up or down I simply move the log lock up or down on the side of the log to compensate and roll it flat to bed brace. This method has virtually assured me of getting a square cant after four cuts. The only other time I might have trouble is when I happen to get a log with a knot or bump right where the log lock makes contact with the log but usually repositioning the log solves that problem. Hope you get yours working soon.

I got my boat crank assembly rigged up to assist with lifting the mill head but so far have not had a chance to do any actual sawing.

rimshot