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Stacking hardwoods for retail sales

Started by Delawhere Jack, February 10, 2013, 05:26:51 PM

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Delawhere Jack

I just finished stacking a bunch of red and white oak that I cut for inventory. I built one large rack 4' x 16', raised and leveled on cinderblocks. The wood needs to be kept up pretty high, as the area is prone to flooding. I've got previous milling clients and others who have contacted me who are interested in buying green boards. The problem I face is having to go through these stacks to show people what I have. The land is near a "wet land", and no permanent structures may be built, otherwise I'd have built some lumber  trees. I'd appreciate any thoughts on how to store wood that may be more efficient given the above criteria. Maybe a lumber tree with a roof on wheels?



 

Dan_Shade

will your blocks sink into the ground?

I made a setup like that once, using 6x6 green "beams" along the bottom, they ended up sagging under the load because I didn't have enough support on the ground for the beams...

That's a nice looking stack of lumber.
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Delawhere Jack

Thanks Dan. The stack on the right is mostly dead clear red oak, the white oak is "character grade".

I'm sure that the cinder blocks will settle over time and I'll need to shim the rack to keep it flat.

The big issue is, I don't want to have to restack-sticker this repeatedly.

mikeb1079

jack i had this same problem a while back.  even just for myself it was a huge pain to unstack lumber to get at the bottom stuff.  i made a little lean to off of my music studio and once the lumber dries out a bit horizontally i restack it vertically.  much easier to deal with.  it seems there's some leeway with "non permanent" structure.  what about just a covered post and beam structure that's not set in the earth?  i suppose it also has to do with what equipment you have to move stuff?
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francismilker

Good question Jack.  I face the same probs.  Maybe this thread will help me solve the delima of moving lumber so often. 

1st law of storing wood:  The board you need is ALWAYS on the bottom of the stack!
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WDH

You could make a "portable" building on skids that could be "moved".  It might take a D-9 Caterpillar Dozer to do it, but portable is portable  :D.
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thecfarm

I would also lay the blocks the other way too. This way they won't sink into the ground as much.Yes,I know they are stronger the other way,but it's not like a house is going to be built on it.
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Ohio_Bill

This is the best system I have seen. I thank Jim every day when someone wants' a board off the bottom of the pile.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,48895.msg706076.html#msg706076
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pyrocasto

I use bolster and a fork lift to stack, like Ohio Bill showed. Makes things a hundred times easier, and I can stack them 8-10ft tall to save on space since mine is stored indoors.

red oaks lumber

make differant stacks for differant sizes and or speices. if the area is prone to flooding i think your stack will be prone to sinking :(
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WDH

Vertical stacking is the way to way when selling small quantities to customers.  Scott Smith has a very good system.  You can flip through the boards like pages in a book. 
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AdamT

Quote from: WDH on February 11, 2013, 08:42:04 PM
Vertical stacking is the way to way when selling small quantities to customers.  Scott Smith has a very good system.  You can flip through the boards like pages in a book.

Is there a link to this thread? Or how is it done?
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drobertson

It seems like space is almost always an issue,  double handling is one of those necessary evils at times.  If I know I am cutting for a later resale, I always seperate widths, lengths and species.  I keep a seperate pile for anything that is junk, and try to discourage sorting,  I have been bit by the buyers that talk up a big story only to buy a few boards, then have to spend time to re strip. I really think that boards kept for resale almost have to be stored in some sort of shed.  Sun and rain just takes its toll on lumber.  I use a system much like the one Jim illustrated, not quite as fancy, but same idea, cull ties, and stickers.  I have also found that allot of the front end loaders have around a 1500# lift capcity, so I try to make mine in this weight range or less,
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