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ever seen an oak subfloor in an old house

Started by hillbillyhogs, February 03, 2013, 09:20:02 PM

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hillbillyhogs

Seeing as we have more red oak than we know what to do with... my feeble mind has surmised that a red oak subfloor run on a 45 degree angle T&G (of course) with 2 1/4 wide red oak floor on top of it would do pretty well since they would  be the same species...??

Are my assumptions correct?  Or am I crazy... ::)

POSTON WIDEHEAD

That sounds like a good strong flooring system to me.
Crazy? No way.  smiley_thumbsup
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thecfarm

Use what you have. I would use the lower grade for the sub floor.
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florida

No need for the sub-floor to be tongue and groove. 
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Retired now!

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: florida on February 03, 2013, 10:04:38 PM
No need for the sub-floor to be tongue and groove.

I've thought about that for a while, you think it would be stable enough,?? I figured I'd T&G it to cut out  the movement. When my dad started building they did subfloors on a 45 square edge lumber. He said they never used oak though.  You've been doing it longer than I've been alive so I'll take that advice.

Tree Feller

Quote from: hillbillyhogs on February 03, 2013, 10:50:23 PM
I figured I'd T&G it to cut out  the movement.

T&G doesn't stop the wood from moving. The only thing that will do that is a constant relative humidity.
Cody

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low_48

My house was built with pine 1x6 subfloor at a 45 deg angle. There is a gap between the boards, maybe shrinkage, maybe to keep it from squeaking.

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: Tree Feller on February 03, 2013, 11:03:28 PM
Quote from: hillbillyhogs on February 03, 2013, 10:50:23 PM
I figured I'd T&G it to cut out  the movement.

T&G doesn't stop the wood from moving. The only thing that will do that is a constant relative humidity.

I understand, I was referring to up/down movement but, with 1" oak I don't there'll be much in a 14 1/2" span

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: low_48 on February 03, 2013, 11:41:31 PM
My house was built with pine 1x6 subfloor at a 45 deg angle. There is a gap between the boards, maybe shrinkage, maybe to keep it from squeaking.

That's what they all were when my dad started building, he's 76. Always pine though. I read what the gap was for on a site but, don't remember.

Tree Feller

Quote from: hillbillyhogs on February 04, 2013, 07:24:07 AM
I read what the gap was for on a site but, don't remember.

The gap is to keep the floor from buckling when the planks expand from moisture. In older homes the planks were probably laid green and initially butted against each other. As they dried in place, they shrunk leaving a gap.

Quote from: hillbillyhogs on February 04, 2013, 07:22:51 AM
Quote from: Tree Feller on February 03, 2013, 11:03:28 PM
Quote from: hillbillyhogs on February 03, 2013, 10:50:23 PM
I figured I'd T&G it to cut out  the movement.

T&G doesn't stop the wood from moving. The only thing that will do that is a constant relative humidity.

I understand, I was referring to up/down movement but, with 1" oak I don't there'll be much in a 14 1/2" span

Aha, now i see. yes, t & g would definitely help keep the boards flat. I have to say that a 1" Oak sub-floor covered with Oak finish flooring would certainly be stout. Since the two layers would be laid somewhat cross-grain I don't think being the same species helps or hurts.
Cody

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hackberry jake

When I build a house, that is exactly what I plan on doing  8)
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wheelinguy

Sounds strong but it also sounds really heavy! Don't undersize your floor joists!

Holmes

I would not want to the person that has to hand nail anything into the subfloor... ;)
Think like a farmer.

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: wheelinguy on February 04, 2013, 05:37:54 PM
Sounds strong but it also sounds really heavy! Don't undersize your floor joists!

We have always used 2x12 F.J. Hem Fir or SYP, on almost everything other than a 12' wide addition or something like that. They let some of the big builders around here use 2x8 SPF on a 20' span, no joke or stretch of the facts.

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: Holmes on February 04, 2013, 06:05:18 PM
I would not want to the person that has to hand nail anything into the subfloor... ;)

:D  Somehow anytime I'm building something of my own I end up by myself so I almost always use nail guns!

woodmills1

worked on tearing down a large mill in Rainelle W Va.

3 inch chestnut sub floor with 3/4 oak tounge and groove on top
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hillbillyhogs

My great-grandfather used to tell me about the chestnut stumps he saw when he was a kid, 2-3' across, can't find even one now. :(

woodmills1

pretty sure they all died in the 1930's or before
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

drobertson

all I know is that sub floors that are screwed down squeak a lil less than ones that are nailed.  Of course some folks like to hear the squeaking,  not me.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

jdonovan

[quote author=hillbillyhogs }
We have always used 2x12 F.J. Hem Fir or SYP, on almost everything other than a 12' wide addition or something like that. They let some of the big builders around here use 2x8 SPF on a 20' span, no joke or stretch of the facts.[/quote]

Use the proper MSR grade, 1/180 deflection limit, 25 PSF live load 12" spacing, and its possible to get a 2x8 to meet that.

Floor will be bouncy as heck, can't throw a super bowl party or everyone will wind up in the basement, but it is in theory possible.

Magicman

OK, questions.  Will you use anything between the subfloor and the flooring such as felt or house wrap?  If so, why?  If not, why not?  Will you try to hit the floor joist when nailing the flooring down?  Will you surface nail or blind nail?

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hillbillyhogs

30# felt between layers, felt helps with squeaks,etc. and just give a separation of sorts between basement and first floor, believe it or not it also helps some with sound levels in between floors. 1st layer blind nailed to floor joists as well as face nailed followed by screws, 2nd layer blind nailing of course.

shelbycharger400

my house built in 1960 uses 2 x8 stringers  16 footers with a beam in the center as the tie plate i guess,  1 x 12s on a 45   with  t+g  1 1/2 wide 3/4 thick maple      Its too busy, but too costly to tear out and redo

muddstopper

My old house is built with lumber we cut and had sawed. Subfloor and roof decking are all wide boards of varying width. Nailed down on a 45 angle. We did run them thru a planer to get consistancy in the thickness department. . Most of the subfloor and decking are 1bys, popular and whitepine. Floor joist are 2x10 yellow pine 2-14ft spans with poles, and the band and some of the joists are actually sawed cresote poles. House was originaly 1x12 whitepine board and batton sideing. We removed the batton sideing, stripped to the studs, and replaced with vinyl a few years ago because we where getting water around the windows and some of the wood was starting to rot. Only bought lumber was the roof trusses.

red oaks lumber

maybe sell some oak and use that money to buy plywood.it will be lighter, move less, and a whole lot eaiser to nail into.
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