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Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

Started by JOE.G, February 03, 2013, 06:42:57 PM

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JOE.G

Hi, I am going to Put Epoxy down on the floor of my shop when it is done, Any tip's? Which brands are good and which to stay away from.
Any Links?

Also Drylok should I use it on the concrete walls? What brand? Thanks
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Raider Bill

I used a 2 part product from Sherwin Williams couldn't be more happy with it. Not sure of the name right off but can check when I get back to Florida.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Tree Feller

From what i've read about epoxy floors, it's not so much the product that is critical but the prep of the floor. Since your floor will be new (no oil stains) you should get excellent results regardless of the brand used.
Cody

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Raider Bill

The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

JOE.G

Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

lowpolyjoe

Very curious to hear suggestions in this thread.  I may redo my garage this year and was debating whether to coat the floor or leave it as-is.

Raider Bill

I'm very glad I did. I went with safety yellow. Not only does it make the floor and shop look great but if you drop a nut or bolt it stands out.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

jdonovan

prep prep prep. Paint is 90% about prep.

There are many grades of epoxy, and price points.

You can get seriously high strength stuff, that you can run 100,000lbs trucks on, and it won't pull up, but it could cost you $300 a gallon.... or you can get the $40 a gal stuff at the local big box store.

I've got the $40 a gal 2-part with color chip stuff in my garage. The wifes car had a bit of hot tire pickup when it was new, after a few days it stopped. Lesson, wait more than the 24-48 hours the can suggests before using it.  Under the bike parking the center stand of the bike has chewed most of the epoxy up, and the 'fix' is going to be a bear.

You have to remove all the old epoxy before you can put another coat down.... so it means sand/bead/shot blasting the entire garage, then repainting. I'm thinking it may be a project for the next home owner  ;D

My basement, I just used a moisture cure, 1 part 'basement floor paint'. No issues, but the toughest thing it sees is a lawn mower tire, so fairly low stress.

If I had a normal garage, with light vehicle traffic, and waited 72-96 hours before I used the newly painted floor, I would probably tell you very happy stories.

Raider Bill

Here's what mine looks like or at least did before I really filled the garage up with stuff.  I have no hot tire issues and have spilled brake fluid / gas/ oil with no problems. Only thing that has really stained it was a can of purple PVC primer and that only took the gloss off the top.
I would use this product again without hesitation.



 
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

JOE.G

Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012


GeorgeK

I used Rust-oleum. works great but it is all prep. Anywhere it was not clean it peeled. The rest looks great.
George Kalbfleisch
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Slab Slicer

As mentioned above, prep is very important. Starting with a vapor barrier under the concrete. Without it, epoxy will peel in time. If you don't have the barrier, there are paints you can use that will give you an excellent finish, but let the floor "breathe", as it doesn't seal it completely.
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lowpolyjoe

Wow Bill, that's bright.  I can definitely see that being useful for finding dropped hardware.  I've wasted more time than i care to think of looking for gray hardware dropped on my gray cement floor. 

Don't think that color would fly with the wife for the 2car garage the doubles as my shop  tho  :(   

Glad to see some links and brand recommendations pop up.  Unfortunately my floor is old and dirty... not sure how much luck i'll have without an insane amount of cleanup.

Joe - have you decided what you're gonna do with your floors yet?  Would be interested to hear about your experience when you finish your shop

JOE.G

Not yet, I have a little time, It's winter here and the shop isn't done yet, Figured I d just read you guys feed back then choose.
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

Slab Slicer

Quote from: lowpolyjoe on February 05, 2013, 11:44:41 AM

Glad to see some links and brand recommendations pop up.  Unfortunately my floor is old and dirty... not sure how much luck i'll have without an insane amount of cleanup.


Prep for my basement floor that was poured in 1954 was pretty simple. A detergent scrub to degrease, followed by a good rinse, then an acid wash to etch, followed by another good rinse, and some time to dry, and the floor was ready to go. I used a Porch and FLoor paint from the local Ace Hardware store due to the lack of a vapor barrier under the concrete, which kept me from using epoxy. They educated me on each step. I'm sure your local hardware store could do the same.

This floor has seen alot over the years, and still finished very nicely. It was oil stained, along with paint spills, and such. I thought it would be tough to do, but it turned out to be one of the easiest parts of the basement finishing.
2016 LT35HDG25, Kubota L2501 w/ FEL, Kubota BX1500 w/FEL and custom skidding rig, Stihl MS 500i, Stihl MS362-25", Stihl MS250-20", Stihl MS192-18",  2001 F250 SD 7.3, GMC Sierra Dually 6.0 gasser, Peaqua 16" 10K trailer, Sur-Trac 12' Dump Trailer 10K
Chuck

Slab Slicer

Quote from: JOE.G on February 03, 2013, 06:42:57 PM

Also Drylok should I use it on the concrete walls? What brand? Thanks

Forgot about this part of the OP.  Dry Lok is a brand name made by UGL, and I would definitely use it on the concrete walls. I sealed all the cinder block walls in the basement, before studding them out for drywall. It works great at sealing out the moisture. Just follow the directions on the can.
2016 LT35HDG25, Kubota L2501 w/ FEL, Kubota BX1500 w/FEL and custom skidding rig, Stihl MS 500i, Stihl MS362-25", Stihl MS250-20", Stihl MS192-18",  2001 F250 SD 7.3, GMC Sierra Dually 6.0 gasser, Peaqua 16" 10K trailer, Sur-Trac 12' Dump Trailer 10K
Chuck

Polly

 8)clean good first with hydrogen peroxide  or similar .use two part epoxy do not use water base kind its a wast of money ,i got mine same place as the young man above that said he put chip flakes in his  , i guess the brand name really is not important  as long as it is apoxy , ifound mine on e-bay if i rember correctly  8)

Polly

 :)i made a b i g mistake about concrete floor cleaner above i should have said to use muric acid , not peroxide i use it for mouth wash , just goes to show you got to beware what a hillbelly will tel you ,sorry about that 8) 8) :D :D

beenthere

 :D :D
Muriatic acid, to be more precise. That is what I use to clean concrete, with a good rinsing washdown after.

http://chemistry.about.com/od/moleculescompounds/f/What-Is-Muriatic-Acid.htm
south central Wisconsin
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scgargoyle

If you use muriatic acid, make sure that there is nothing that can rust in the shop. I remember a local machine shop that cleaned their floor with muriatic acid, and it rusted all of the machinery- big time. IIRC, the fumes can be dangerous, too.

I'm still considering commercial floor tile for my barn. It runs about a buck a square foot for the materials, and holds up well. I worked in a shop with those floors, and it held up to forklift traffic and metal chips for 30 years. More work to install, though. The downside to finishing any shop floor is moving all of the stuff out!
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

sprucebunny

I'd like to put a finish on my garage floor, too.
Yes, moving the stuff will be the worst part.
I'd like to know more about the tile because I have floor drains but the pitch is a little off ::)
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JOE.G

This is why i want to do Mine before I move anything in.


What do I put this stuff on with? A Roller?

What about Drylok what do i put that on with?
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

Weezer

Joe, I dryloked my basement with a heavy knap roller and a big stiff brush like what you use for painting tar on. My walls were very coarse (100+ years old) so I needed to work it into the cracks & crevases. I put it on thick so it took a lot, but I have no complaints, been at least 10 years now. Didn't stop all the dampness, but a big improvment. I bought mine @ Depot, if you buy white, they will tint it any color you want. Not sure I could live with screaming yellow though!  ;D

JOE.G

That was going to be my next question, If they could tint it.I see they have white and grey in stock.
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

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