Didn't get any milling done today, but I learned a few tricks

[Delawhere Jack]

Went to the jobsite where I'd left the mill to complete a job this morning. Very cold, tried to start the engine, but it didn't want to fire. After a couple tries I lost all power. I figured that I'd run the battery dead.

I had left the loading arms down and parked the head when I left the day before, so I had to remove the outboard belt cover and crank the lift pulley by hand to get enough clearance to remove the battery box cover. Jumped the battery for several minutes, but still no juice. Discovered that the 100amp fuse had blown.

Hop in the truck with customer and go to a Yacht sales and service business a few miles away, customer is friends with the owner. Find a "marine grade" fuse, $30...... :-\ We stop in the office on the way out and talk with the owner, I may get some work cutting keel blocks for them!  ;D

Back on site, install the fuse, engine cranks now, but still weakly (did I mention it was COLD?). Now, like the idiot that I sometimes am, I try the accessory position on the switch. No dice, no lift or blade guide. And now it won't crank either. Blew the new $30 fuse.... >:( And now I'm not sure what blew it.

It's getting late, and IIRC, WM customer service closes at noon on Saturday? Didn't want to bother them anyway until I do a little troubleshooting myself. So I crank the head back down by hand, re-install the belt cover, stand up and look across the mill at my loading arms which are still on the ground....... $#@&*%^$%^$ >:( >:( >:(

Take the pulley cover off again and then realize that my backstops are up, and it will take FOREVER to crank the head up by hand to clear them.......

Attempted to lift the turner up by hand as the customer held the hydraulic contoller lever up. It was slow..and heavy, but I got it all the way up. Had him release the lever, I let go of the turner, and it promptly falls back down....... :-\

Pulled the truck up and used jumper cables to power the hydraulics. Got everything in position to travel....

Well, she's back home now, and I was able to find a thread on the forum on troubleshooting the issue.

I just wish it wasn't so stinkin' cold.

[Jim_Rogers]

I too have blow fuses trying to start a cold machine with a low battery. Not fun at all.

I always park the head high enough to get to the battery box first thing.
And if the battery is even a little bit low, I stop cranking right away, and put the cables on it.

When ordering fuses get more so that you have some on hand for future.

Jim Rogers

[Delawhere Jack]

Jim. I'm hoping it was just the cold engine cranking that blew the fuse, the battery was new in August so it should be ok.

Also hoping that WM (or someone local) has the plain old piece of perforated aluminum fuses, I am NOT paying $30 for anymore fuses. Heck, I'll make my own before I pay that much again.

[beenthere]

Gee, how cold was it?

[drobertson]

cold, who cares how cold just that it is cold,  you northern boys are a different breed for sure, hats off to you all. 

[Delawhere Jack]

Gee, how cold was it?

I'm sure it would be considered swimming trunks and tee shirt weather in your neck of the woods, but I'm not from your neck of the woods. ;)

About 20F with a 10-15 wind.

[beenthere]

About 20F with a 10-15 wind.

That's plenty cold.

[Bibbyman]

I think I can make your day. You shouldn't need to crank the head up by hand to take the battery cover off to jump it.   There is the box to the right of the battery box  that you take the cover off and jump the battery there.   Or put jump on there and then use up/down motor to raise head.   I think the instructions are in the book.

[red oaks lumber]

20 deg. i hardly remember when it was that warm! :D

[bandmiller2]

Easy for me to say because I'am retired,but when the temps go down your ahead not to awaken sleeping equipment.Sharpen bands move lumber around or preferably something in the shop. Frank C.

[Dave Shepard]

Like Bibby said, instructions for jumping are in the book. There should also be two spare fuses inside that box as well, tucked around a corner. A friend of mine bought a mill where the guy had blown that fuse and jumpered the connection with a piece of thin wire. Ended up frying the feed motor because of it, and there were those two spares hiding when I went in there to replace the fuse.

[Delawhere Jack]

Jim, it looks like maybe it was the cold weather starting that blew the fuses. I couldn't find any shorts.

At the suggestion of several people I trust, I've been running straight 30W oil in the old Onan. When I went to check the oil level today it was thick as molassis. Maybe I should run 10W-30 or 5W-30 in cold months?

Dave, Ah Ha!  There was one spare fuse left, I'm back in business. I will be ordering some spares tomorrow. Thanks!!

[Jim_Rogers]

I think I run 10-40 but the last box I bought from Sam's club was 10-30.

As I said buy extra fuses of both sizes. I keep my extras in my parts box that goes with me to every road job......

Jim Rogers

[Bibbyman]

Any way to run a dipstick heater or oil pan heater?

We had a engine block heater installed in our small Terex.   It has a Perkins diesel.  Plug it in about 30 minutes before starting works wonders. 

If you're trying to saw in real cold weather, you may want to make sure you have the right oil in the hydraulic system.

[hamish]

Was -40F last two weeks ago here mill fired up fine, as did the tractor, as always.

Maintnance and upkeep along with understanding engines and the cold always win.   Guess you have never had it cold enought that when you put your truck in drive she doesn't move.

Be mechanically sypathetic and let things warm up.  An non start is just operator failure.

[Chuck White]

Been there, done that myself!

After changing the fuse a couple of times and sending off to Wood-Mizer to get spares, then they popped (cold starting)!

I went to Auto Zone and bought a 100amp circuit breaker, installed it inside the power box and have only had that trip once.

The big secret is actually to only crank the engine a few seconds then give it a break.

[Jim_Rogers]

I went to Auto Zone and bought a 100amp circuit breaker, installed it inside the power box and have only had that trip once.

I'd love to see a picture of that and a part number?

Would be a nice upgrade.

Jim Rogers

[Tom L]

At the suggestion of several people I trust, I've been running straight 30W oil in the old Onan. When I went to check the oil level today it was thick as molassis. Maybe I should run 10W-30 or 5W-30 in cold months?



the engine manual should give you a temp chart , what oil to use at different temps.
lighter oil should help it turn over.

[Delawhere Jack]

Chuck, I picked up a breaker today. I like the fact that you can "trip it" manually.

Jim, I made up copper bus bars from 1/2" copper tubing to mount the breaker and act as conductors. They will fasten on the threaded posts where the fuse went. I'll get pictures when I install it tomorrow.

Tom, the manual calls for 10W-30 for 20-80F, but many people have advised using straight 30W in older engines. I picked up some 10W-30 today, the mill is due for a change in about 10 hours. I'll change back to straight 30W in warmer weather.

Guess I'll carry a little Bernz-O-Lite torch to warm her up on those really cold days... ;D

[Leigh Family Farm]

Seems like you got the problem fixed. I personally like to learn from my mistakes than paying someone else to learn.

[Delawhere Jack]

Here's a pic of the circuit breaker installed. I put the spare fuse back in the spare holder, just in case.
Pardon the blurred picture. The conductors are made from 1/2 copper tubing. The bottom one wraps around the flange of the breaker and contacts the fuse holder. The red button lets you open the circuit, neat to have, quicker than disconnecting the battery.



 

[Jim_Rogers]

Thanks and Nice.

Got a part number?

[Chuck White]

Hi Jim, sorry I haven't gotten back on this thread.

Jack has a good hand on this thread now, Good install there Jack.

Just been busy.

I don't have the packaging that the CB came in, so I can't give you a PN.

I don't know what the part number is for the circuit breaker but I got mine at Auto Zone and it is a 12 volt, 100 amp breaker.

[beenthere]

Delaware's looks like a Bussman 185100F breaker, but listings show them as 48v (which may be fine). $39 on flea bay.

Harken 12 v 100A CB shows up for $73. # HARHCP1718

Autozone has 100A but not 12v.

[Chuck White]

I don't remember just when I installed the CB in my mill, (maybe 2yrs ago) but I do know the cost was <$20.00.

[Jim_Rogers]

Thanks for all your advice, pictures and comments, to everyone.