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The perfect stove

Started by r.man, January 31, 2013, 09:04:31 PM

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r.man

I do not have the perfect stove. I have what in most industries would be called a lemon. Seemed like a good idea on paper but just didn't pan out in the real world. For those of you who haven't heard me complain before my stove is almost a one off. It was made by a small company in Ontario Canada that does not exist anymore so hopefully no one will have hurt feelings when I say its cons exceed its pros. To try to be more positive I thought I would ask everyone's opinion on what a good OWB should have. Tell me what is good about your stove because by this time next year I will either have a better stove or if the fates are nice to me I will have built a new one incorporating what I think are good ideas and then I will have no-one to complain about but me, same as my work. I will start with one large must have and one annoying should have. My new stove must have a large firebox to get me through -40 weather and I should have some sort of easy to use means to keep the fire door from swinging all or partially shut while I am loading it. The second one is a minor thing but very annoying. 
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Hilltop366

The second one should be easy, a magnet in the right location, or a gate latch.

Best of luck with your build.

thecfarm

I don't know if you want a gasser or just a regular OWB. Gassers were not on the market than. I have a regular one. You have read my posts about how simple a Heatmor is and yes,it has a catch to keep the door open,no matter how hard the wind is blowing. The inner door handle sets down into a pieces of metal on the outer door. But all these OWB really took a jump in price when metal went up in price. Mine has no switches,just the controllers for the low and high temp. No digital readout,no sensors,no nothing. I think the ones being made now have some readouts and switches. Mine has just 2 blowers and a bladder.A very simple design. If I did not have acres of dead wood to get rid of,I probably would not have one because of the price of one. I would still be using the wood stove in the basement and the cook stove up stairs. Good luck with your search. I looked for many years and even stopped at users homes,that I did not know,to ask about thier OWB.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

doctorb

Your second question first.  Put your stove on a level concrete pad that is larger than the one suggested by the manufacturer.  It enables mud free, flammable debris free working in front of the stove and......the door stays open when you open it.  Your door is closing because your stove is slightly off level.

Good OWB should have.....a non-inclusive list.

1. Easy access to all moving parts.
2. Removable panels to clean/clear all air passages.
3. Design to prevent wood bridging
4. A reputable dealer that stands by the equipment who will not disappear after the sale.
5. High grade super insulated and well installed pipe to lessen heat loss.
6. A warranty that means something
7. A history of top quality manufacturing
8. Lights inside the firebox
9. And an owner that understands that daily maintenance and diligence are inherent in his part of the bargain.
10. Oh...yes, EPA Phase II approval to minimize pollutants and neighbor complaints.

I should also add that the perfect stove needs perfect fuel that loads itself! ;D

I am sure there are many others
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Holmes

Have you looked into the Garn boiler? It may or may not be what you want or need but
Think like a farmer.

boilerman101

The Eclassic 2400 would solve most of the problems you mentioned and fill most of Doc B's suggested list. Other than the "fill itself part" :D
I burned wood inside for 5 years before going OWF...I don't want that smoke and mess in my house again ever. I am getting 24 hour burn times at   -29F on my 2,300 sq ft house, but that could vary depending on each homes insulation. Doc B, I love by LED lights on my E2400. One is on the hinge side of the door so when the firebox door is open, it lights up the inside of the firebox. One of my favorite features of my unit, along with the extra wood savings!
I don't see the attraction of a garn...you're back to burning wood indoors and they are a huge unit with a very small firebox. Need to start a fresh fire in them regularly. So huge you either have to add on to the house or give up 1 stall in your garage and park your car out in the snow.

trapper

My light in the firebox is a motion detecter light pointed at the furnace that lights both ny wood and furnace when I load it at night.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

Jeff

I don't normally peruse the wood heating board because I've always had gas. :D  Anyhow, I had to set this topic to notify me about new posts, as I find this a very interesting topic! :)  And I don't know why!  :D :D 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Al_Smith

Now I would have thought as a mill owner sawyer or what ever a person who likely had access to tons of wood would at least burn some .On the other hand free or not it still requires some work and can be a pain in the buttocks at times .

Jeff

I live in the land of natural gas. It would make zero economical sense for me to burn wood. :)
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Al_Smith

I can fully understand that .

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: trapper on February 01, 2013, 10:12:42 AM
My light in the firebox is a motion detecter light pointed at the furnace that lights both ny wood and furnace when I load it at night.
I usually wait untill right after a burn cycle or during and i have plenty of light in the firebox that way... I hate it when you can't see wht you are doing. Last year I way too much of that let me tell you. Set up much better this year with actual good wood.

thecfarm

I have a light by the top of my OWB. I took the glass part off and screwed in one of those outlets into the socket. Not one with a chain,but one that is just about flush with the socket. Kinda looks like those old round fuses. Than I wire tied one of those 500 watts lights up by the roof. I have plenty of light now! I have one that is pointed towards the OWB,but the pile of wood hides the light. For the times I think I need to see in side,Tractor supply sells one of those rechargeable lights stick,$10-15. Comes with a magnet that clips on the side. I lost the clip part somehow.  ::) I had a flat magnet I taped on the side. I just stick it on the edge of my firebox,kinda up high and kinda out of the way. I ran some outdoor wire from my light in the back to the OWB. When I build a shed in front of the OWB,this wire will be used than. But in the mean time,I get by like this.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

doctorb

Jeff-  what's your annual heating bill with natural gas?  Is gas so much cheaper where you live than in other parts of the country?
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Jeff

I really have no idea what gas is other than right here. I just asked Tammy, and she says less than $1000 a year. That includes heating water, drying clothes, cooking food and heating the cabin out back. We use both a high efficiency furnace and also a high efficiency  gas fireplace.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

doctorb

Pretty cheap.  Oil for year round DHW and heat could cost me 5-6 times that.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Brad_S.

One of my favorite FF posters is Dangerous Dan. Everything he seems to do is way over the top, including his outdoor furnace. I wish I had the know how to construct one like it!
Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on January 24, 2005, 03:12:29 PM
Everyone likes pics, so here are a couple.




The door can tip back to load small logs or it lifts off entirely for the big stuff.



Above is the damper assembly mounted directly to the chimney. It's a Honeywell 110 volt actuator I got at a scrap yard. It was connected to some big louver type vents and it opened and closed them. Got it cheap and it works great. There is another damper for air but I have it closed all the time unless the fire is too low.



2 chunks like this will provide heat for up to 24 hours. Freshly cut green wood burns just fine and lasts much longer than seasoned.

OOH! My back!!

Giant logs burst into flames almost immediatly! It's hot down there!
(How can I link to these photos without having to go to Dan's gallery?)
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

Jeff

Not sure what you mean.  If you click where it says "Image hidden from quote, click to view". The images appear.  I think you did what you wanted to do, without knowing it, unless I am misunderstanding the question. I'm good at that some times. :D
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

thecfarm

I remember that and him too. That guy had some real neat stuff and ideas.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

woodmills1

jeff, was so sad to hear, that



you have always had gas :o
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Glenn

Hey R.man

I'm very close to your area.  You must have a pine tree stove.  There are many of those all over this area with holes in them and other problems.  One of my friends has one that continuously plugs up.  Some of their models weren't even approved but were sold anyway.  I have a BIL that worked there and he told me lots of stories.

driver_of_1

Nice thread thanks
Im living in Northeast Nebraska and building a new house for which im looking for a certain woodburning appliance. The new floor plan is single level slab on grade(river front property) and the mechanical room is adjacent to the dining/great room. The mechanical room is concrete walls and doubles as a storm shelter with an exterior door.             I would like to install something like a wood burning add on furnace(currently in the old house we have a daka which can be viewed at menards dot com to give an Idea). I would like to place this wood burner in the mechanical room next to our geo heat pump and fill it in the concrete mechanical room however i would like a fixed glass piece(sealed well or not openable at all) that will be trimmed through the concrete and seen from the dining great room side.
This way i figure all the fire/ and possible mess will be contained in the mechanical room and the heat will be distributed through our spread out single level floor plan by the geo ductwork and i will still be able to enjoy the light and some heat and the look of the flame in the dining/living area.
You guys got any ideas on what might be my "perfect stove".
Thanks
Shawn

DDDfarmer

We have the same stove as you.  Last summer we pulled it out to inspect and found a small hole, not bad for an original stove 20+ years.  Dad is still running his bought the same time.  Yet there have been problems with other stoves.  If there is a hole you cannot just weld that up, it must be cut back to solid metal and replaced.  Next stove we fix I will try to get pictures.

Dad is starting to buy the old rusted out stoves to rebuild with modifications, 1/4" firebox, eliminate the flat spots, improve the circulation. 

Treefarmer C5C with cancar 20 (gearmatic 119) winch, Husky 562xp 576xp chainsaws

r.man

DDD I had one of the plain Pine Trees and it was ok except for the whole leaking thing. It needed a complete firebox in the end and it wasn't worth fixing. I think I have seen one cut out and it would be hard to replace the box on it. The one I saw was built into a flat sided shop built tank and the back of the firebox extended past the fire area to the tank sides to provide them with support. Made it hard to extract the box to replace without butchering the tank. I am not 100 percent sure this stove was a Pine Tree but I think it was. If the design was good and the rest of the stove could be saved putting in a new firebox would make perfect sense. The Heatmors are designed to be able to replace the water arch which is how I think a stove should be made. The Pine Tree I have now is the fan combustion model and I don't like it for many reasons so it will not get rebuilt.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

r.man

DDD what did you mean by " pulled it out ".
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

DDDfarmer

We removed the stove to open it up and give it a good inspection.  Good thing we did there was a small hole in the bottom.  built a new firebox out of 1/4" and replaced. 

This stove is the fan forced air up past the ash pan.  Flat spots were removed or sloped.  Next stove I want to add electronic water level sensors and temp sensors to connect to my computer, then I can check up on my stove away from home.
Treefarmer C5C with cancar 20 (gearmatic 119) winch, Husky 562xp 576xp chainsaws

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