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awkwardly mobil LT 10

Started by rimshot, January 16, 2013, 10:42:19 PM

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rimshot

Well, this is a picture of my neighbor u,p on my LT10.  The LT 10 is perched aboard my 16' car trailer flat bed.  The LT 10 is without  the extension bed so it measures close to 12' in length.  I'm new to this so I will be glad to hear comments about this method good and bad.  Of course that mill will never travel anymore than a 5 mile radius and before it goes on the road  (if it does) it will be chained down with binders and guy straps. 

As far as sawing and the convenience of this rig, it works OK with the exception I have no system to stage logs which ultimately have to clear the wheel fender and be able to roll aboard the bed  .  I have to carefully place logs with the tractor.  I will have to design and build some type of a heavy duty horse to support a couple of timbers to stage and roll onto saw bed.  I have to do this w/o any timbers or logs between bed for mill and fenders which does not affect the clearance for the head rig.

Once the trailer deck is in place and leveled, jack stands go around at the corners and the unit is without a vehicle connected.  If bad weather comes along I hook up the tractor and roll the whole rig in the barn .  Here is a picture of my neighbor making some nice 1 X 6's out of a white Cedar log.

rim

  
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

scully

I think you got a good thing going there . Just some thoughts ,maybe slide the mill over to one side and build some timber ramps that will clear the fender ? But over all for your mill lenth not a bad way to go !
I bleed orange  .

thecfarm

Is the sawmill on the trailer permanent? If so I would remove the fender on the operator side,this will lower you a few inches,if needed,and built yourself a catwalk. Build a railing around it to so you won't walk off it.Could put a couple trailers jacks under the walk or just block it up with some 4X4's. Looks like on the non operator side you could just put down a couple 4X4 or what ever height you need to make it just a little higher than your mill and use a peavey-cant dog to roll them on.This way you won't be dropping a log on your mill. Kinda hard to "see" what you need,we are not there doing the sawing. I'd be awake all night thinging about how to make it easier.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

rimshot

Quote from: thecfarm on January 16, 2013, 11:09:52 PM
Is the sawmill on the trailer permanent? If so I would remove the fender on the operator side,this will lower you a few inches,if needed,and built yourself a catwalk. Build a railing around it to so you won't walk off it.Could put a couple trailers jacks under the walk or just block it up with some 4X4's. Looks like on the non operator side you could just put down a couple 4X4 or what ever height you need to make it just a little higher than your mill and use a peavey-cant dog to roll them on.This way you won't be dropping a log on your mill. Kinda hard to "see" what you need,we are not there doing the sawing. I'd be awake all night thinging about how to make it easier.

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The saw mill is not permanent.

I like your suggestions.  The trailer was just sitting empty in my pole barn.  it takes up no extra space to perch my lt 10 aboard the trailer bed and it gets stored inside as well.  I have a trailer hitch adapter for my tractor bucket and I can move the mill off to the garage in nothing flat with this device. I can always boom the head mast off the track with my tractor and front end loader if I need the trailer but anybody have any suggestions about picking up the nearly 12' track without stressing the frame too much?  I really don't need the trailer that much but taking up the masthead is something I don't need lots of.

I could easily add a safety rail because the trailer flat bed has 2 X 4 stake pockets around the exterior but the operator of course pushes the mill head through the log so he is hanging on with both hands.   I still like the extra safety of  rail as you suggest however. 

rim
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

thecfarm

Have any hard wood to cut? Since it sounds like it will be under cover all the time, could cut some 6X6 to put under the rails permanently. Bolt the rails to the 6x6's. I would saw the timbers a little bit longer and put a chain through the wood. But are you taking the head off first? May be just as easy to get an old pop up trailer axle and some trailer jacks and do that. Still put the wood under it too. I suppose you have no 12 foot metal kicking around? Good luck. Keep on thinking.  ;D Others on the forum have done what you are trying to do.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

rimshot

Quote from: thecfarm on January 17, 2013, 08:11:23 AM
Have any hard wood to cut? Since it sounds like it will be under cover all the time, could cut some 6X6 to put under the rails permanently. Bolt the rails to the 6x6's. I would saw the timbers a little bit longer and put a chain through the wood. But are you taking the head off first? May be just as easy to get an old pop up trailer axle and some trailer jacks and do that. Still put the wood under it too. I suppose you have no 12 foot metal kicking around? Good luck. Keep on thinking.  ;D Others on the forum have done what you are trying to do.
===============

Did you mean 6 X 6 timbers (hardwood) to strengthen frame.  I could get some nice red oak but it would unfortunately only be 11' long because of the current frame length.  That would probably do anyway as it would be nearly 6" on either end and a cross member or end piece could take care of that.  I think Red Oak in a 6 X 6 would dry quite straight.  We also have White ash, hard and soft Maple and Beech. 

rim 
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

Chuck White

It actually looks like an alright setup.

The only thing that would make it better would be support equipment like a tractor with a FEL.

Kind of handy in other ways too, if you weren't sawing and needed the trailer, just back it into the barn, slide the mill off and be on your way with the trailer.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

thecfarm

Rimshot,   Did you mean 6 X 6 timbers (hardwood) to strengthen frame.

Yes I did. Others know more than I do about drying something of that size. You may have to dry that for a year first. I THINK if the wood started to warp and you had it bolted to your frame it might cause the frame to flex some.  :o  Might be better off with some of the other hardwoods you named off. I don't know.  Might be as easy as Chunk is saying too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

francismilker

I love it when a plan comes together rimshot!  Looks good to me as long as it works for you!

You might consider building yourself a permanent log rack out of timbers you cut that are an inch or so higher than your fenders.  Then, you can stage your logs on the rack and roll them on as you need them.  When sawing is done for the day you can hook on to the mill and drag it to safety.  When it's time to mill again, hook on and drag it up beside the log rack and get to work.
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

WM LT-10supergo, MF-271 w/FEL, Honda 500 Foreman, Husq 550, Stihl 026, and lots of baling wire!

rimshot

Quote from: thecfarm on January 17, 2013, 08:35:46 AM
Rimshot,   Did you mean 6 X 6 timbers (hardwood) to strengthen frame.

Yes I did. Others know more than I do about drying something of that size. You may have to dry that for a year first. I THINK if the wood started to warp and you had it bolted to your frame it might cause the frame to flex some.  :o  Might be better off with some of the other hardwoods you named off. I don't know.  Might be as easy as Chunk is saying too.
( thecfarm)

=================

I might just get some nice store bought SYP wolmanized timbers from the local lumber yard.  I have had experience with these things because I built a pole building from them a couple of years back and they were mainly 14 footers with 16;s and 18's in the gable.  Yellow Pine is hard and strong and lag bolted to that 5" angle frame for the Lt 10, I believe will hold fast

rimshot
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

rimshot

Quote from: Chuck White on January 17, 2013, 08:25:40 AM
It actually looks like an alright setup.

The only thing that would make it better would be support equipment like a tractor with FEL.


(Chuck White)

======================

I have a tractor with a front end loader, Chuck so I am all set.

Rim












w
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

rimshot

Quote from: francismilker on January 17, 2013, 11:38:11 AM
I love it when a plan comes together rimshot!  Looks good to me as long as it works for you!

You might consider building yourself a permanent log rack out of timbers you cut that are an inch or so higher than your fenders.
(francismilker)
==================

Thst sounds like a plan francis.  I will grab a few timbers and go to work.

rim
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

beenthere

QuoteI have a tractor with a front end loader, Chuck so I am all set.

Rim

And you were not figuring on using it?  ;D

What tractor and FEL is it? And can you get forks for it?

Just not so easy to have the tractor along when doing custom work away from home.

A cradle (or such) arrangement on the one side of your trailer to accept a log from the FEL for rolling gently onto the saw frame would be something to consider. ( like francismilker said, I now see)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

rimshot

And you were not figuring on using it?  ;D

What tractor and FEL is it? And can you get forks for it?

Just not so easy to have the tractor along when doing custom work away from home.

A cradle (or such) arrangement on the one side of your trailer to accept a log from the FEL for rolling gently onto the saw frame would be something to consider. ( like francismilker said, I now see)
[/quote]  (beenthere)
=======================
Oh the tractor has always been part of the plan, beenthere.  it wlll  be tuff to get the tractor to a remote job site with the mill aboard the flat bed trailer if that is what you mean.  That's why I will be pretty choosy about where I go with all that equipment.  I just got the mill so I'm still learning the  ins and outs. 

I plan on using the tractor to load this stage I am going to have to build so I can have a few logs ready to go.I have been using the tractor which is a Kioti ck20 (compact utility tractor) with loader and indeed forks.  I have already sawed probably 50 logs but with no staging it is just kind of a pain to  start and stop that diesel all day  because I only have room for one larger log on the mill and maybe a small log along the side.  Now if I could load 4 to five or more logs and then go to  sawing production would be much smoother.  My first job is less than a mile away so I can drive the tractor and pull the mill there.  I don' t  know whether or not I will be doing that much off site work but it is still nice to wheel the mill around the wood lot I have getting that mill in and out of the weather thanks to that trailer etc.  Other than that the trailer just sits there taking up space in the barn.

Thanks for checking in

rimshot
LT 10 with a 10 h.p. and a converted boat trailer to provide mobility for a once permanent mill.

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