Roller Blade Guides

HaroldSiefke · January 08, 2013, 12:07:53 AM

I built this set of these roller blade guides to put on my Woodland Mills HM126. I have not built the movable side yet. Not sure if I need to make it movable on a 22 inch span. 22 inches is my maximum board cut.

customsawyer · January 08, 2013, 02:43:04 AM

I have not see one of these mill up close but I don't think that your moveable roller needs to be able to go all the way. Probable with in the last 6-8" would be enough.

fishpharmer · January 08, 2013, 06:01:30 AM

The roller guide looks sturdy an adjustable, well done.

bandmiller2 · January 08, 2013, 08:05:53 AM

Good work Hal,what is critical on guides is the distance from where the band rides on the roller to the lowest part of the guide.That dimention should be less than an inch that way your last board can be one inch.Needless to say your fast [stationary] guide should not interfere with the log stops.No real need to have your movable guide go much less than 12".Square tube in square tube with a handnut on the corner to lock it works well. Frank C.

thecfarm · January 08, 2013, 08:12:16 AM

They put a piece of about 12 inches long of round rod on mine,with a "T" handle with threads on the end. No need to reach in and adjust it, they used square tubing as bandmiller said.

Chuck White · January 08, 2013, 08:14:04 AM

Nice job Hal, they look real nice!

drobertson · January 08, 2013, 08:19:13 AM

Good looking work!

Magicman · January 08, 2013, 08:28:59 AM

Very nice machine work.

Be sure that both blade guide rollers can be adjusted for 'Horizontal Tilt". While sawing, the blade must contact the outboard side of the roller flange thus pulling the blade into closer contact with the blade guide roller.

HaroldSiefke · January 08, 2013, 10:32:04 AM

Thanks guys for the input. The woodland mill only cuts down to a two inch board on the last cut. I am trying now to get all the things ground down and adding some parts like new cant holders. The ones on the mill I have do not hold the cant securely to the bed. They were too bulky to get them below an inch and they don't hold a light cant sturdy enough. When the blade goes through it flexes up a little over 1/8" .

HaroldSiefke · January 08, 2013, 07:53:29 PM

Got my second

one done today. Guess tomorrow i"ll saw my old guides off and add my new ones..

mikeb1079 · January 08, 2013, 10:05:45 PM

nice job. i upgraded my homemade rollers to cooks (look similar to yours) and i've been very pleased.

5quarter · January 08, 2013, 11:17:24 PM

I'm with Customsawyer...make the adjustable guide moveable to about 6-8 ". Also, if you use the square tubing, try to find 1/4" wall seamless...much smoother and more accurate adjustment. Guides look pretty slick...saved yourself a few $$ there. ;)

HaroldSiefke · January 09, 2013, 08:56:39 PM

Could some one please give me the steps in order how to adjust roller blade guides and tolerance on tilt horizontal and up&down? I'm new to this stuff .

Magicman · January 09, 2013, 09:05:12 PM

I am wondering if WM or someone has a PDF on proper blade alignment. I just use my book, but it is a big book.

5quarter · January 09, 2013, 11:08:21 PM

Harold...put your blade on under low tension without touching the guides. lower the guides until they are just touching. take a measurement from the top of the blade to the top of your bunk. then adjust your fast guide down 1/4", putting downbearing on the blade. with your moveable guide all the way open do the same and double check for level. then adjust both guides forward or back until there is 1/4" space between the back of the blade and the flange. Then to adjust your lead/tilt. place a magnetic torpedo level perpendicular to the blade (between the teeth) next to the fast guide and adjust until blade is level. repeat with moveable guide. Then adjust once more, moving the bubble slightly off center toward the teeth of the blade. as you saw, you may want to make some slight adjustments to the above tolerances as every saw is a little different.

HaroldSiefke · January 11, 2013, 10:17:45 PM

Does anybody that has a Wood Mizer lt 15 have the tolerance measurements for the roller guide horizontal adjustment? I took a ruler and put it on the front of the blade guide and adjusted it parallel with the back of the blade. Does the blade run parallel with roller guide or does turn slightly in toward the way the blade is coming from? This is the only adjustment I'm not sure about. Thanks guys for all the responses.

HaroldSiefke · January 16, 2013, 12:18:01 AM

Well got my mill back blowing sawdust. It cuts like a different saw. I have never cut such straight boards.I also made some new log dawgs, they are much faster then the screw type. thinking on putting a 14hp kohler on it soon. more power. Sure was fun to cut up a new mill and see it work again.Does any one know if I put rams on my mill with a 12 volt winch if i can hook this up to the new motor cause if i can't i'm going to get the motor with out an alternator. I will post pictures tomorrow.

Jemclimber · January 16, 2013, 06:23:21 AM

I'm assuming you meant "ramps" to load logs? If so, the intermittent use of a winch should be fine, as long as you have a decent size battery. By dawgs, you are refer to clamps? I would love to see what you came up with. Can't wait to see your pictures.

bandmiller2 · January 16, 2013, 07:00:46 AM

Hal,when your a metal worker it opens up many opertunities.Your at a cross road now,you can go electric or hydraulic.Electric is tempting, its cheaper and easier,and works for light duty.If you go hydraulic you can have alot of nifty stuff like two plane clamp/turner or the Piney woods turner variable feed and even log loader.Hydraulics are weather resistant and trouble free.Will you be setup portable or stationary.??Any support equipment.?? Frank C.

Magicman · January 16, 2013, 07:58:44 AM

If you are considering adding a few 12 VDC options like a winch or hydraulic pump, do not pass up the opportunity to also add a large alternator to keep your battery charged.

HaroldSiefke · January 16, 2013, 09:52:08 AM

Ya the ramps will be for loading logs away from home,and the dawgs are for holding the log. I use a international tractor with a chain to load now. In the mitts of making forks for that. For backup for the mill I have two 066 stihl power tuned by madsen and two 046 still that are tuned also. I use to fall timber in the lower 48 and also cut in Alaska close to Cordova in a remote logging camp. I use to mill logs with my 066 and an Alaskan mk II. I sure am glad to have a real mill.