New saw not getting oil?

[JuniperBoss]

I have recently received a brand new Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss. I ran about 4-5 tanks through it. I cranked the oil adjustment up to full blast and it's been at that setting ever since. From the beginning, I noticed it was not getting the oil the older saw was. My Father has a Farm Boss, it's like a 2005 model or something like that. It always used 1 tank of chain oil to 1 tank of fuel. It was the perfect amount, especially for cutting large rounds of tough wood. When the fuel tank on the new saw is near empty, the oil tank still has about 3/5 of a tank left, maybe more. When I cut big rounds, the chain just plain dries up. I can't see or feel a darn thing on it, and the ol' "point it at a piece of wood" trick doesn't show hardly anything either. But I know the oiler is working, because if I set the saw down for a minute to idle, I can then see a film of oil come through the chain. It quickly disappears after a bit of hard bucking. I'm not going to have to set the saw down after every cut, am I? One last note. I took off the bar and chain and, in fact, there is a bit of fresh oil there. The hole and slot are both clean as a whistle. But the thing that struck me as odd was that after I cleaned the woody gunk out of the bar groove, I noticed some weird spots of blackish toning about every inch of the bottom on the groove. It looks like some kind of overheating where the chain sat on the bar after operation?
     All I can say is it sure seems low on oil. Im afraid to cut with it until this is resolved. Why is it so dry when the oiler is turned on high? I'm using Stihl winter grade bar/chain oil and it's 25F outside. Help!
     

[thecfarm]

But it from a dealer? I would take it right back,if you did.

[Peter Drouin]

mix some diesel maybe two cups to gal of bar oil , I do it evey winter ;D

[JuniperBoss]

It was purchased from the Big R store. We bought a little saw from them a while ago and we didn't like the way they handled a situation. This time we just said "no thank you, I'll just take the saw. No cheesy warrantees and no synthetic oil." So I don't really know what they would do if we took it back. I'd like to stay away from that if I can.

[bill m]

As for the spots in the bar it sounds like it is a laminated bar and you are seeing where it is welded. You shouldn't need to thin the bar oil to get it to go thru the saw, only to make it easier for you to pour. If the saw is new take it back to the dealer and let them fix it while it is still under warranty.

[JohnG28]

You won't see it use oil like an older saw does. My 361 goes through about 1/2 tank oil to 1 of fuel, turned all way up.  Pull the chain off the bar when shutdown after running it full throttle for a minute. You should see oil on the drive links. If its there then you're good to go. Just how them new saws go these days. You also said it's got a 20" bar which is about max on a 290, so you'll see a little less oil than say a 16" bar would.

[JuniperBoss]

Hmm, well I that makes me feel a little better. I really would prefer more lube though, simply because I'm a firewood guy and I need to be able to cut through big logs, as wide as the bar or even a little wider. The older saw did it with ease and there was always oil on the chain all the time no matter what was being cut. Empty gas with 3.5/5 of a tank of oil just seems slim on highest oil adjustment. Oh, and no, I can see absolutely no oil whatsoever on the bottom of the chain after a bit of full throttle. It just plain dries up. I set it down for a minute idling and then I notice more lube. Any way I can beef it up? Can I get in there and cut some stuff open? I don't think anything is broken or not operating because some oil is getting out, just not enough. Thanks for suggestions.

[joe_indi]

........................ I cranked the oil adjustment up to full blast and it's been at that setting ever since............     

This might sound foolish, but did you turn the adjusting screw clockwise or anticlockwise.
Full blast is anti clockwise.   :-[ (Clockwise)
If the screw is really on full blast, check if the oil pump worm is going into its slot on the clutch drum.
If that too is okay, try this.
#Remove the guidebar.
# Rest the saw with the clutchside facing upwards.
# Drop some kerosene or diesel into the oil feed outlet.
#Use an old starter rope to spin the clutch drum in reverse.
#You  could also use a drill or angle grinder to power the spinning in reverse.
# As the kerosene gets sucked in, pour in more, about an ounce totally.
# Try turning it by hand and check if the kerosene level drops gradually.

If you have reached this stage successfully, everything should be fine.
Drain out the oil tank, rinse it with diesel and refill with fresh oil and try it.

Joe

[JuniperBoss]

Did you just say that full blast is counterclockwise/anticlockwise??? I have the manuel in my hand now and it says quote, "To increase oil feed rate---turn the adjusting screw clockwise". Somebody help me with this. Is it clockwise? Does the manuel lie or are my eyes failing me?
     (yes I turned it clockwise)

[Migal]

Just a note when I bought my 361 from a dealer I carried it back for not oiling right they took it to the back came back and said it was set perfect well I took it and when I got home I removed the bar and cranked it up several air bubbles came out before it was pumping to what I would call right Been oiling great ever since so I figured it was not primed right from the dealer. GL

[JuniperBoss]

Maybe I'll take it back and at least ask them what they can do. Let me know of any other ideas. Thanks.

[beenthere]

"To increase oil feed rate---turn the adjusting screw clockwise".

That is what my MS361 manual says as well.
Maybe we can get some clarity on the issue.

[joe_indi]

"To increase oil feed rate---turn the adjusting screw clockwise".

That is what my MS361 manual says as well.
Maybe we can get some clarity on the issue.

   Ooops! : My big mistake : Sorry. I meant full turn 'clockwise' for full blast
I have made the necessary correction in my reply.
Joe

[beenthere]

joe_indi
Does that screw turn hard? I had my saw out, and it doesn't seem to move in either direction with ease.

Is it just like a plug that meters oil pumped past it?

[joe_indi]

beenthere,
That screw turns just about a quarter turn that's all.
Turned clockwise to the maximum, the slot in the screw is breadthwise of the power head.




Turned anti clockwise the slot is lengthwise of the powerhead.


The screw is tight because it is spring loaded. So you might have to exert some pressure.

Pictures are not very clear.I used my old old mobile phone for the job
Joe

[ladylake]

Thank the EPA for stingy oilers on new saws..    Steve

[drobertson]

My 362 acted the same when new, after a call to the shop I did the adjustment check it was wo, I think it had the bubble thing going on too. I have been running winter grade all the time, and now it is close to the tank of fuel to oil ratio, a lil more oil.

[joe_indi]

Thank the EPA for stingy oilers on new saws..    Steve

Steve, I dont know about that, because the specs for the 029 says oil flow rate is 6-15cc/minute @ 10000 rpm while as for the MS290 the oil flow rate as per specs is 8-18cc/minute @ 10000 rpm.
Joe

[JuniperBoss]

Thanks for the clarification. I sure do wish that really was my problem though! So I suppose the best possible thing to do is take it back? Is it just one of those things where they say "Oh no problem", take it back and do their little tricks on it and it comes back perfect? Is it easy for them to do or would I have to pay for some replaced part or something?

[thecfarm]

Most things with a motor has a guarantee of a year if not commercial used. Should not cost you a thing,you said you just received it. I spend money on something I expect it to work right when it is new. It will broke down soon enough without being on it's way brand new.

[JuniperBoss]

Another silly question here. Does the throttle have to be held wide open to get maximum oil? Or is it that there is always the same amount of oil coming out all the time, idling, limbing, bucking, whatever. I've been taking it easy on the thing because the motor is just now gaining good power. It's still breaking in. I've been doing a lot of limbing, and just now I started bucking bigger logs. I'm holding it at full, but sometimes I come just shy of full at the last half of the cut.

[beenthere]

Likely pumping oil when the chain is running. Not when the saw is idling and the chain is also not moving.

[JohnG28]

Im pretty sure the oil pump is clutch driven, so should only get oil when chain is spinning like Beenthere said. Have you taken the bar and chain off then started it up? You should see a steady flow under throttle with everything off. Also, is the bar a Stihl bar? Aftermarket bar holes might not line up correctly. What are you cutting? Dry oak or something like it will put that saw through some hard work, which could be part of the problem also.

[JuniperBoss]

I'm cutting Juniper wood. You guys might not even know what that is, but it's knotty softwood with flaky, dusty bark. The bark I know can clog oil holes. The oil hole/slot is clean though. It's a stihl bar and chain and I do believe oil is coming out when engine is going.

[Kevin]

Are you using a winter grade oil?
Colder temperatures will affect the flow of summer oil in colder winter climates.