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... Use a second battery mounted as close as possible to the winch, then parts store starter cables to the winch. Then you can get away with #8 or 10 wire with a fuse inline, up to the vehicle battery....
After pricing the components locally I found that there was very little to be saved by fabbing it myself.
Looking at it from a different angle ...Drawing 420 amps of current through 30' of #2 gauge wire drops the voltage by 2 volts! If you use a pair of cables the total voltage drop is 4 volts, leaving you only 8 volts at the winch.Drawing 420 amps of current through 30' of #4 gauge wire drops the voltage by 3.2 volts! If you use a pair of cables the total voltage drop is 6.4 volts, leaving you only 5.6 volts at the winch.Electric motors draw whatever current they need to supply the necessary power. If the voltage at the motor goes down, the current draw will go up. That overheats the motor and eventually it burns out. It also produces less torque so it won't be pulling as hard as it normally would.Now the (sort of) good news. The winch manufacturer has already allowed for some voltage drop in the wires you connect it with, so the situation isn't quite so bad.Some suggestions:Keep the wire length as short as you possibly can. The difference between a 25' cable and a 30' cable is significant (that means the total length, from the winch to the battery).Use good quality connectors -- cheap ones can have a lot of voltage drop across them.If you need longer wires for only some of the time, make up two sets and use the shorter ones whenever you can (Yeah, I know, expensive. Compare it to the cost of a new winch).Try to keep the load on the winch down when you're using the cables.
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