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mainline end?

Started by treefarmer87, December 24, 2012, 10:19:23 PM

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treefarmer87

for some reason, i always break the nice end on my mainline and have to tie knots, after that the mainline seems to break and wear out quickly, is there a way to stop this or is that part of owning a cable skidder?
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

Ohio_Bill

Do you use Swaged cable ?

:christmas:
Bill
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treefarmer87

yes, thats what i am using now
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

pigpen

I assume your using 9/16 swedged? I use the same thing(C5D) and so does a friend of mine (664 clark) and they do break, but it takes a while... usually breaks once a winter, which is about 800 to 1000 cords, depending on how things go you know. My mainline runs about $240 for 100'. Don't know if there is a "cheap" form of the same cable? just some thoughts...

loggah

Thats part of logging, ;D i used to run 5/8" swedge cable ,and by the time the ball broke off the end the cable was pretty tore up in that area ,you got to take 6' to 8' off before you put a knot in it because of all the wires that are broken internally. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

treefarmer87

pigpen, i paid $350 for mine on baileys, its the 3/4 swaged. loggah, i have had to do that about 4 times in the past 3 mo.
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

overtime

I use them cable ferrules they sell them at Labonville they work good go on there web site Labonville Inc and look under cable and chain you will see them

HiTech

All the stress and strain is near the end of the cable, especially when hauling a hitch out. If you have any rough or sharp areas on your sliders that will wear the cable also. I always figure if you put a new cable on and can go a year without putting a knot in it, you are very lucky or didn't pull much wood. lol Also when your cable is over the arch roller with a hitch of logs on the end it has a lot of weight there trying to make the cable flat. I am surprised they last as long as they do.

lumberjack48

30 yrs running cable, i would not run swaged cable.

I used regular 9/16 cable, i kept an eye on the end, I'd retie it using a figure 8 knot before it got bad enough to break. If you wait on till it breaks, you just created a job. Not only that i've all so lost more cable because it unrivaled.

The biggest problem i had with new help is they wanted to carry the drag to high. I've seen guys carry a drag, winched up in to the arch so tight the skidder wouldn't turn until the cable broke.

The sliders should never come up on the spool, this was my golden rule.
Anytime your pulling the sliders up over the spool its breaking the cable down, this causes premature failure.

Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

treefarmer87

ill remember that. i figured the more of the tree off the ground the better it would pull. i need to raise my arch up higher also.
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

Atlantic Trader

Lumberjack48
I agree I never did like the idea of pulling the bells and chocker ends over the roller with a load on it doesn' t seem right although I did read in an old Timberjack manual to do exactly that??

AT

smwwoody

Keep your fairlead rollers in good shape and turning freely.  that will extend the life of your cable greatly.
Full time Mill Manager
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McDonugh resaw
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Pendu slab recovery system
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loggah

If you have your hitch way up high your skidder will pull less wood because it will keep trying to rear up in the air,if you got a big hitch you want it just off the ground  enough to clear stumps and behind the fenders. If you run a grapple much pulling whole trees you will see what im talking about to high up in the air and your front end is in the all all the time. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

lumberjack48

Quote from: treefarmer87 on December 25, 2012, 05:31:34 PM
ill remember that. i figured the more of the tree off the ground the better it would pull. i need to raise my arch up higher also.

Carry the trees high enough to clear the stumps, thats all i worried about.

Like Don said the higher you raise the trees the less weight you have on the front end.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

acl2

I always like to pull my trips up about as high as possible, without the slides over the roller. The less left on the ground the easier they drag and the less dirt and mud end up on the trees. Depending on the terrain and timber size i tie the cable once a month to once a week. Like lumberjack said i always like to tie the cable before it breaks, saves a lot of time, cable, and frustration 

jd540b

tf87,  Make a clean cut in your cable back to where it is good and use a ferrule from Labonville.  That's all I use and rarely have any problems-knots in the cable are a P-I-T-A.....furrules make for a nice clean end and put even strain on the cable.  I have a manual cable cutter-the kind you pound with a sledge-they work great.


lumberjack48

I tried Ferrules wedges a couple times, i had trouble with it not staying together, but maybe i was in to much of a hurry.

When using a single knot, after cutting the pigtail off i had trouble with the knot pulling out. Using a figure 8 knot solves this problem.

I used a old double bit Axe and 5 lb hammer to cut the pigtail off. I'd stick the Axe in a stump, lay the cable over the top blade and give it a short hair cut. This leaves the burr on the end short enough so it's not a bother.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

treefarmer87

i usually use the torch to cut it.
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

thecfarm

I only have a tractor with a 3 pt winch. Whenever I need to repair the cable a few wraps of electial tape and a metal cutting blade on my skill saw is what I do. I do have a wedge welded on my winch for repairs but I use the saw. I know electicity can be hard to find in the woods,but if it's close by would you use it?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HiTech

A battery powered hand grinder does a nice job cutting the end off. You can take it with you and not worry about a place to plug it in.

keen

I use a 2in to 1in pipe adapter, babbit the cable in it. It allows the last slider to rest on the adapter.  My cable seems to hold up well. I can change the end fairly quick when needed takes about 15 mins. I have ran knots and ferrules, but found the 2to1 working best for me. I will try to get some pics next week.

thenorthman

Where do you find the babbit at?  Most of the rigging supply houses and industrial type supply houses around here haven't got a clue what I'm talking about when I asked em about it a few years ago... works good for making "bearings" too among other fun projects...
well that didn't work

keen

I see this site here has a good selection and shipping is reasonable. http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/alloy_babbitt_13.htm  My old man worked in the oil fields all his life so I always got mine out of the scrap pile out back. Usually don't have to use much since when you change the end you can just melt the babbit in the 2to1 back into a pot. Pretty neat stuff. I have fixed alot of broken choker cables with babbit also.

kiko

I know it won.t help on the end, but keeping your cable greased will entend the over all life.I knew a man that shoot a little diesel on his winch cable every time he filled up. It helps keep the strands from rubbing each other which definatly comes into play as the cable is streched over time. Diesel may be to expensive to do this nowadays.

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