iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Small Engine Fuel

Started by bendjoseph, December 18, 2012, 05:01:09 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

bendjoseph

Are the small engine fuels worth their price?

mad murdock

If a guy can't do math to figure mix ratios, mebbe. For the once in a great while woodcutter, who doesn't know how to properly mix 2 cycle gas, or store his equipment after use, so it will start next time he goes to use it, mebbe. I am sure it's good stuff but not for the price they ask fer it!!!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

NCFarmboy

It's expensive!  For an occasional user that leaves fuel mix in their equipment it would probably be worth it.  Shelf life is great if cap is tightly sealed or unopened.  It might not be bad to have a can or three around for emergencies.  40:1 only IMO.
Shep
Lots & Lots of Saws

blackfoot griz

There are 10 small engines of different sorts on this place.  Seems like every year one or two had carb/fuel related problems.  A small engine mechanic recommended a fuel additive callled "PRI-G".  Been doing it for 3 years now and have not had a problem starting any of the above the next year/season, even the 2 stroke stuff.

Now that I said that...I probably jinxed myself!

Cut4fun

Quote from: blackfoot griz on December 18, 2012, 01:03:11 PM
A small engine mechanic recommended a fuel additive callled "PRI-G". 

You had me wondering what it was.

copy and pasted   http://www.priproducts.com/consumer_products.cfm
PRI-G works chemically with all gasolines to improve the combustion process, resulting in better engine performance. PRI-G reduces the hesitation, knocking, and pinging that is common in gasoline engines. It is also extremely effective at cutting harmful emissions. Smog tests are no longer a challenge. PRI-Gs proprietary, chemistry is unsurpassed at preventing carbon deposits and fuel system fouling. Your engine will remain cleaner and last longer, which means maintenance costs are significantly reduced. PRI-G is super concentrated and cost effective, treating fuel at a 1:2,000 ratio Fuel specifications arent changed, so engine warranties are not voided Safe and effective in both four stroke and two stroke engines. Pri Advanced Fuel Treatments 32oz Pri Gasoline Treatment 512ga
$28

celliott

My college's toolroom uses the SEF fuel. Premixed, non ethanol fuel. They are also fueling 20+ saws, which may sit for some time, then get used quite often, and put back on the shelf. I was told they haven't had nearly as many carb issues since they bought that. But at $10 a gallon, that's too rich for me.
The school has a 55 gallon drum of 2 stroke gas and regular gas (for woodsplitter and bandmill)
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

macpower

It's the way of the future when E15 takes over. At least for those who can't get av gas. Our sales of SEF/TruFuel have quadrupled in 2 yrs. It's gone from a novelty item to a solid moneymaker for me.
Purveyor of Stihl chain saws.
Thomas 6013 Band Mill, Kubota L3400DT, Fransgard V3004, 2 lazy horses and a red heeler

Al_Smith

Well ethanol blended fuel is not going to go away as much as some of us would like it to so we just need to deal with it .

I've heard it takes about 40 more percent by volume to equal straight gasoline which is no problem ,just retune the carb .The problem is what it does to the seals and soft components of the carb .

I think though as I have mentioned before it seems at least with Stihl the replacement seals appear to be using a more resiliant type of material as well as most carb rebuild kits do also .

Perhaps some of these additives may prolong the adverse affects of the stuff but again only time will answer that question .---I can't however see 10 bucks a stinkin gallon ,good grief ---

bendjoseph

i go through about 10 gallons of gas in my saws a year.  I think I will try it for a while, and see if there is a difference.

Next question is which brand?  Stihl Moto mix or VP-SEF?

sablatnic

I use Aspen, but the price difference isn't too large here. Octane 95 is 8.50 $ a gallon right now.

scottmphoto

I recently bought a new Husky. On their website, they offer an extra 2 years of extended warranty if you bought 3 cans of the pre-mix stuff on the same receipt as the saw. So, between the standard 2 year warranty from Husky, the extra two years for buying the pre-mix and the 3 year extended warranty from Lowes, I have 7 years worth of warranty. I recently attended a chainsaw safety class and the "pro" teaching it swears by the pre-mix. It's mixed to the right ratio (depending on which one you buy), it's ethanol free and is 91 octane (at least mine is).

tlandrum

im selling the redmax branded 50:1 for 7.49 a quart. this is the same fuel as the husky fuel . same deal on the added warranty too. 
www.wickedworksaw.com
wickedworksaw@gmail.com
Husqvarna and jonsered dealer
chainsaw porting for high production work saws
4233465399

sawguy21

WHOOSH  :o That might be ok for the guy that uses a saw for a couple of hours once every three years but at that price I'll mix my own.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

scottmphoto

Here, the "Tru-Fuel" premixed at Lowes is $5.90-something.

JohnG28

Quote from: scottmphoto on March 31, 2013, 07:33:40 PM
Here, the "Tru-Fuel" premixed at Lowes is $5.90-something.

That is per quart, right?
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

scottmphoto

Yup, I guess that it's by the quart. I am told that it is very stable and will last a while as long as the lid it tight before it starts to separate. Like I said before, it's expensive and the only reason that I bought it was to extend my warranty. An extra 2 years of warranty for @ $18.00 isn't bad. I figured that I'd use it as I break in the new saw.

cuterz

I mix my own the "redi mix" is too expensive

shinnlinger

I was reading you can separate the  ethanol from pump gas by adding water to it and then draining the water.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

JohnG28

You can't really remove the water and alcohol, at least not completely. I definitely wouldn't try to use it after.  I believe if you were to mix water into say E10 gas that the alcohol would combine with the water and float on the gas. This can be used to determine the actual amount of ethanol in gas.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

bandmiller2

I'am a retired fire service mechanic,gasoline has always been a problem for small engines.They must be left wet,for quick starts,and bounce around on the trucks.Premix is a godsent for that application boath two and four cycle.As mentioned too expensive for a commercial cutter but dandy for joe doaks homeowner who will never drain his saw when done.What we need is a good way to remove the alky from the fuel,as the politicians are hopeless and just cater to the greenies. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

gspren

  I just got a couple of free cans of pre-mix from Baileys when I bought a new bar and I don't see any date stamped on the cans, is it good forever?
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

MidWestTree

The canned pre mix is the only way to go for most homeowners these days, consider not just the occasional use chain saw but the line trimmer and leaf blowers etc. that sit for six months in the off season. A single trip in for service from stale ethanol blend fuel can exceed the value of the tool in a real hurry in homeowner grade equipment.


trapper

I can get ethonal free mid grade and premiom gas at fleet farm.  I use mid grade for 4cycle and hi test when I mix with oil for 2cycle.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

John Mc

You can separate ethanol from the gas by adding water, shaking, and letting it settle. You'd then need a way to drain off the water/ethanol mix which sinks to the bottom.  I used to do this with small samples all the time to checking whether auto-gas had ethanol in it when I was burning auto gas in my plane.  I tried it once with a 1 gallon jug of gas just to see if it would work... it did, but it's a bit of a pain in the neck to drain off the water/ethanol after it settles

I don't recommend doing this for fuel you intend to burn in a high-performance engine.  E10 gas gets about 4 points of its octane rating from the ethanol.  Strip the ethanol out, and your 91 octane E10 premium is now 87 octane ethanol-free (or almost ethanol free).  Couple that with the fact that gas tends to lose octane rating as it ages, and who knows what you are actually burning in that engine

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

I was talking to my father inlaw by Skype yesterday, he is in Bahrain, Saudi Arabia doing contract work upgrading their transformers and transmission lines.
He bought gas for his car at 12 cents a litre or approximately 48 cents a US gallon. :o
No ethonal in sight and octane is 95.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Thank You Sponsors!