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Converting my garage to a woodworking shop, question on (green) pine for walls?

Started by Piston, December 17, 2012, 10:27:47 PM

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Piston

I have an oversized 1 car garage that I would like to convert into a work space.
It's currently unheated with no insulation and poor electric.  The walls are nothing but studs and exterior sheathing, so it's a good time for me to redo the electric, before I close in the walls.

The garage is 18'X22' and sort of a saltbox style.  My plan is to rip out all the old electric, as it is nowhere near up to code, and re wire the entire garage, then insulate, install a vapor barrior, and use horizontal pine boards for the interior wall sheathing. 

I don't have any dry pine boards.  I would have to cut down some pines, and mill them into boards to use.  Only problem is they would be green.  My question is, can I do this without running into mold problems? 

My idea is to mill the boards to a thickness of 7/8", then plane them down to 3/4" (easier to clean and won't trap as much dust as rough cut-This will be primarily a woodworking shop for me).  Then, install the boards either nailing or screwing them in.  I don't mind if gaps develop from drying in place. 

Would this cause any problems?  My thinking was that with a vapor barrier behind the boards, they could dry in place on the wall without causing moisture problems, and I could start building work benches and hanging cabinets on the wall this winter, rather than milling them now, air drying, and putting the boards up next year. 

Or, am I just asking for trouble using green pine? 
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

Magicman

A green 1X12" SYP will shrink approximately ¾".  If you nailed them up green and each board shrunk 3/8" from the center, you still have a ¾" gap between boards.  If your nails/screws are toward the board edges, they are going to split somewhere.

I would consider sawing them now and getting all of the dying possible before nailing/screwing them up.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

beenthere

Over the insulation and vapor barrier, I'd just put on 1/2" drywall. Cheaper, quicker, better.........

Or delay adding the pine boards until after they have been stickered and air dry in your garage.

How soon do you think you will have pine boards sawn?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Piston

Quote from: Magicman on December 17, 2012, 10:52:31 PM
I would consider sawing them now and getting all of the dying possible before nailing/screwing them up.

That is certainly the best idea, but I really just can't wait any longer  :D
If I don't end up doing the pine, I'll do the walls in drywall but I really hate to do that. 

What if I milled all 1x4's and nailed them in the center?  I realize either way they will shrink, but narrower boards obviously would shrink a lot less.  Then again, I suppose I may get a lot of cupped boards that way.  Maybe this isn't such a good idea  :D


Quote from: beenthere on December 17, 2012, 11:24:28 PM
Over the insulation and vapor barrier, I'd just put on 1/2" drywall. Cheaper, quicker, better.........

Or delay adding the pine boards until after they have been stickered and air dry in your garage.

How soon do you think you will have pine boards sawn?

I really (really, really, really) hate drywall, especially 1/2".  I like the ability to bang a nail into my wall and hang whatever I want, without worrying about hitting a stud.  I absolutely hate joint compound and don't even get me started on sanding it down and painting  :D :D :D

I would be milling the boards prior to starting on this project.  If I did use green boards, do you think I would I have a problem with mold or moisture?  That is really my main concern. 
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

beenthere


I think you would get mold behind the green boards.
If you would strip the studs to act like a sticker, then air would circulate up behind the boards. Whether enough, don't know.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

tyb525

Drywall doesn't fare well in unheated/cooled spaces, and won't take any abuse in a workshop. With the pine you can put a shelf anywhere, not just where the studs are. Add in mudding, sanding, and painting, and the time spent may not be much less than using the pine.

I would skip the vapor barrier and nail them up after drying a few weeks. You could chink the cracks if they are a problem, or put battens over them later on if needed. I really don't think you need a plastic vapor barrier for a workshop, unless this will be living space that is heated year round. The paper backing on the insulation and the wood sheating on both sides should be plenty, and it will prevent mold by letting any moisture left dry out, whereas a vapor barrier will trap it and cause mold/rot.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Ianab

Personally I'd want the boards at least partly dry before nailing them up, especially if you are putting a vapour barrier behind them. Pine is almost certain to grow something if it can't dry quickly.

On the other hand, at least it dries quickly, and wont need to be fully dry, just under 20% or so where the mould and mushrooms wont grow any more. Should only take a couple of months. You can finish the drying in place, as long as you aren't worried about the gaps.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

LeeB

'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

thecfarm

Will Pine really dry below freezing? I suppose you are using white pine. Is this garage attached to your house? I was thinking of one of those salamander heaters that run on kero to help out with the drying,if not attached to your house. I would use wood too. Put two boards together and you will be just about be able to put your finger between the boards,when put up green.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

muddstopper

You could always build a leanto kiln, add a barrel stove and dry the wood that way. For just a temporary kiln, you could enclose with plastic or one of those blue tarps. Just keep the barrel stove far enough away from the plastic or tarp so it doesnt catch fire or melt.

Personally, i wouldnt use 12in boards as they will cup enough to pull the nails out of the studs they are nailed to. Mill the wood to at least 6inch, 4in is even better. 8in would work and look good if nailed vertical and you use 2in batten strips to conceal the cracks.

To address the mold issue, I dont know how much or any mold might accummilate with and indoor application. I can say that my current house was built out of whitepine my dad and I cut and had sawed. The exterior sideing was 12in boards, board and batten style. The house was wrapped in plastic and then sheathed with one inch lumber with an additional sheeting of white styrofoam sheets. The board and batten was then applied on top of that. After about 10 or 12 years and because of poor framing around some windows. I began to experience rot. I stripped all the siding off the house and the back side of the lumber was just as white as the day it was sawed. Zero mold. I saved the boards and used them for all kinds of projects around the house.

Sprucegum

Use tarpaper for your vapor barrier - it will wick away the moisture. For a few bucks more get rock wool insulation instead of that pink fiberglass stuff. The fiberglass holds moisture and encourages mold whereas the the roxul won't.

DeepWoods

I don't know what the price is for a sheet of OSB is in your area.  But at the time I was covering the interior walls in my shop, it was the same price as drywall.  It gives you the ability to nail anywhere in between studs.  No mudding or sanding required.  I also used it on my ceiling.  It does take more paint to cover, but I only put one coat of white on the ceiling before hanging and it reflects light quite well.  Also by painting it before installing, there is no drips or spatter to worry about. 

If I were to use pine, I would wait till it had dried some, as I think your final look would be better.  Especially if using wide boards.  I have some 16 inch wide pine that will be used for siding, but it only stays flat if dried first. 

I thought the same thing when I was building my shop, use something I cut and made.  Truth is, OSB goes up quick, and in the long run, I can't produce and install pine as quick and as cheap as the OSB did. 
Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

Chuck White

To offset any shrinkage problems with the boards used for sheathing, you might want to try "reverse board and batton", it looks good and provides you with a flat wall.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

petefrom bearswamp

Planing green wood is a pain and I find that EWP shrinks very little in drying.
My 34X64 shop is all osb and painted white (second time after 15 years)
Painted the sheets the first coat the first time before installation.
Put a nail/drywall screw anywhere and the white walls and ceiling make the shop very well lit
Pete
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

red

Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

Piston

I was really intending on using green pine boards for this project, since I don't care about gaps, but now since pretty much everyone agrees that it isn't a great idea, I think you've changed my mind. 

I haven't taken any kind of 'inventory' but I have a fair amount of dry 2x random width boards that I milled for my grandfathers barn floor, they've been airdrying for a couple years.  I suppose I could bring myself to use those boards and mill some new ones for his barn, since I won't be getting to that anytime soon.

My whole reason for "rushing" this project is because my wife wants me to do some 'home improvement' projects, and I told her that I really want to get a shop together before carrying on with any projects.  Right now, I really don't have a place to do my work, I have to go up the street to my father's garage to use my own table saw and nice miter saw, that is really annoying! 

I want to be able to get to the point where I can have some workbenches in my garage.  So maybe what I could do is use the pine that I've already milled, and is dry, and nail that up just high enough up the wall to where I would have my workbench, so 36-40" or so.  Then I could air dry the pine that I can mill next month for the remainder of the walls, since I won't have enough dry boards to finish.  At least that way I could start building some work benches and put storage under them. 

Any more advice/recommendations on a vapor barrier?  Tar paper, plastic, none?  I do plan on adding heat to the garage for next winter, which is why I'm insulating it now. 

Someone asked about it being attached, no it is not attached to the house, it's about 6' away or so.  I've used one of those torpedo heaters in there before to take the chill off.  Also I didn't mention that I have a window on each (opposite) wall and can leave those open through the winter to allow adequate ventilation if it made a difference. 

I really like Chuck White's idea of adding strapping between the boards and studs to allow more ventilation. 

Here is one last attempt to use my green boards:  :D
What if I put up horizontal strapping on the studs, then put vertical green boards on the walls just high enough to put up a workbench in front of it, so 38" or so (not the whole wall) and leave a 2" space at the bottome, so air could get behind the boards at the bottom and ventilate through the top, sort of like vertical drying.  As mentioned, I don't care much about the gaps, but to minimize them I could use 1x4, or 1x6's.   ???

Thanks for all your advice, I'd rather you guys tell me how stupid of an idea it is and not do it, than go ahead and put up green boards without asking, only to run into trouble down the road.  ;D ;)
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

Magicman

You could go ahead and put it up green as you first mentioned, and nail/screw only through the board centers, leaving a ¼" gap between the boards.  Several fans and a dehumidifier should move enough air to dissipate the moisture.  In 6 months or so, nail/screw the board edges and then add a ¾" strip as chinking between the boards.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Holmes

Is your dads garage heated? Can you cut your boards ,sticker stack them in his garage and torpedo heat them for a long weekend?  You could get some of the moisture out and use them as you want. Just a thought...
Think like a farmer.

LeeB

I say put up tar paper, then horizontal firring strips. Put up your fresh sawn pine boards, allowing as much if any time possible for it to dry some, nailing in the center as MM suggested. Next summer you can put battens over the gaps or not as you see fit. I would go with 8" max width boards. 6" would probably be better and use good sawing practice to minmize movement.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

tyb525

Eastern White Pine shrinks relatively little compared to some other species. If the pine is q-sawn, it shrinks about 2.1% from green to kiln-dry, and about 6.1% if flatsawn. That's a gap of 5/32" in a 12" wide flatsawn board - not nearly big enough to stick your finger in. Quartersawn or rift-sawn will have less shrinkage. I assume your boards won't be nearly as wide as 12", so the gap would be even less in that case.

Personally I would insulate your garage, then sticker the wood in it for a couple weeks with a fan blowing on the stack and a heater keeping the temps at 45 deg or above. This should accomplish a lot of drying, and at that point if you put it up there should not be much shrinkage.

If you put the wood up tight at 6-8% MC in the winter, you will have big problems in the summer when the MC goes up (as it does in all wood, KD or AD) and the boards swell and try to expand. Especially if you don't have the shop cooled daily during the summer.

I don't know why people are knocking your idea, because many people have done it. As someone who hangs drywall at least once a week, I would not hesitate to put some pine up in my workshop.

Also, if you mill them at 7/8" you should be able to plane most of them down to 3/4" smooth on at least one side, the other side might still have a few rough spots, but for what you're doing it sounds like it won't be too much of a problem.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Jim_Rogers

The only problem with sticking the pine in the workshop and then heating it a little to help it dry is that it will only dry until the air is saturated with moisture. You need to get dry air in there. Or exchange the wet air with dry air by blowing the wet air out the window, and heat new air coming in.
Or put in a dehumidifier and dry the air in there.
Leaving saturated air in your shop will cause everything in there to get surface moisture on it, when everything cools down overnight.

Dry the air and it will dry the wood.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

beenthere

QuoteI don't know why people are knocking your idea
tyb
Not sure why other ideas are construed to be "knocking" Pistons idea, of which he specifically asked for help.
QuoteMy question is, can I do this without running into mold problems?

Each have a different feel for just what Piston is comfortable with, what he desires, what he has to work with, and what time schedule he is working under.

Piston is the one who will have to live with his decisions. None of the rest of us however will have to in the long run. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Piston

Quote from: Magicman on December 18, 2012, 04:36:56 PMIn 6 months or so, nail/screw the board edges and then add a ¾" strip as chinking between the boards.

Lynn, That actually sounds like a really cool idea, having chinking between the boards, that could add to the "rustic" feel of a woodshop that I'm going for.  ;D


Quote from: Holmes on December 18, 2012, 05:03:50 PM
Is your dads garage heated? Can you cut your boards ,sticker stack them in his garage and torpedo heat them for a long weekend? 

Actually yes it is.  It's a 3 car with insulated garage doors and he keeps it around 50°.  I could crank it up to 80 or so very easily, especially if we get a few mild days.  I'm sure he wouldn't mind  ;)


Quote from: beenthere on December 18, 2012, 06:26:54 PM
Piston
Do you have a thickness planer that will be in the new shop?

I don't, I want one though, does that count?  I'm planning on using a friends planer, it's a Home Chepot dewalt version but works pretty well. 


LeeB (I now think your name is BeeL since I just found it in the Christmas Contest game :D)  Thanks for the tar paper suggestion. 


Quote from: tyb525 on December 18, 2012, 06:35:39 PM
Eastern White Pine shrinks relatively little compared to some other species. If the pine is q-sawn, it shrinks about 2.1% from green to kiln-dry, and about 6.1% if flatsawn. That's a gap of 5/32" in a 12" wide flatsawn board - not nearly big enough to stick your finger in. Quartersawn or rift-sawn will have less shrinkage. I assume your boards won't be nearly as wide as 12", so the gap would be even less in that case.
That amount of shrinkage is more than acceptable for my garage shop.  This isn't going to be one of those fancy wood shops you see in magazines, although I'd like that  ;D. 


Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 18, 2012, 06:48:09 PM
The only problem with sticking the pine in the workshop and then heating it a little to help it dry is that it will only dry until the air is saturated with moisture.
Jim, I suppose I could open all 3 garage doors for a bit until all the air exchanges, then shut them and heat up the building again.  I'm not sure how happy my dad will be with using all that propane to dry some low value boards, but maybe he'll be away for the weekend and won't know  :D :D :D :D



Quote from: beenthere on December 18, 2012, 07:24:58 PM
Piston is the one who will have to live with his decisions. None of the rest of us however will have to in the long run. ;)
Well, me or the next owner anyways...  :)
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

thecfarm

I thought they used some eastern white pine on a sugar shack at Fryeburg Fair. I bet it was just flat sawn and that shrunk enough to stick a finger between the boards. I have no idea how green pine will work on that planer. I know the green hemlock did not work out good with my delta planer,from Home depot. Only took a few weeks in the summer to make a big difference. If you are putting up green boards I would use a vapor barrier on the walls,but I think I would not on the ceiling. That moisture needs to go somewheres.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

tyb525

Piston, whatever you do I doubt you'll regret it too much ;) worst comes to worst you'll have some gaps to fill with chinking, if you let it dry some first like other have suggested, and don't use plastic vapor barrier (someone suggested tarpaper), you shouldn't have mold problems.

If all your boards shrink and you start getting your fingers stuck between them, well just send 'em to me and I'll get rid of those defective boards for ya ;)
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

trapper

If puting it in the garage with heat for a while Why not add a dehumidifer to remove moisture from the air?
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

Piston

Quote from: trapper on December 18, 2012, 09:15:40 PM
If puting it in the garage with heat for a while Why not add a dehumidifer to remove moisture from the air?

Cause I don't have one  ;D
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

Holmes

Can you put the wood in a confined space, a garage, heat up the area to 90 degrees or more , close the area off and let it set for a few of hours?  Then open up the doors turn on the torpedo heater with the doors open to help change the air. Do that a few times and you will speed up the drying process. Nothing says "dry scorched air" like a torpedo heater.  You could do that in the garage you want to fix just don't work in that confined space at that temperature. IT IS carbon monoxide.
Think like a farmer.

beenthere

Piston
How many square feet are you talking to panel the garage for your shop?

If all is paneled, then looks like 640 sq ft, or 640 bd ft ?

How long will it take you to saw that out of your log deck?

A day?  Might have to process 1000 bd ft of logs? 

Sounds doable.

Get the pine sawn up first, and by the time you have the electrical, insulation, and necessary framing done then the pine will have had a few weeks or months to dry a bit.  Might be ready to plane and nail up with no worry about mold.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Piston

Beenthere,
Your absolutely right.  I'm going to mill the boards first, then do all the work.  By the time I ACTUALLY get to the step where I'm ready to put up the pine, it will probably have a few years of drying time anyways  :D :D

(I'm thinking on paper here)  The back wall of the garage is only 6' tall, and 18' wide, so there is 108sq feet. 
The side walls are both 22' long, and gabled ends to the roof, so the average height I'm going to guess at 8' or so, there is another 122sq feet X2. 
So for those three walls the total square footage is 460 not including the front.  I'm not including the front wall because most of it is garage door, there is probably only 60-70 square feet there, so lets call it 550-600 total that I will need. 
That doesn't include the ceiling.  I'd have to measure it to get a pretty accurate estimate, however, I'm thinking about doing the ceiling in drywall for brightness (I'll regret it when I'm joint compounding)
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

LeeB

Put the drywall on the ceiling and cover the joints with thin strips of wood. Screw holes are easy to putty. Maybe even put the strips to make 4ft squares for a designed look.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

red

So lets see no heat in your garage . .your Dad drys wood . . and Honey do List gets longer . . perfect  lol
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

Magicman

When you do install the boards, the sides toward the "living area" will still continue to dry more than the side toward the studs.  This will cause the edges of the boards to cup toward the living area.

Installing the boards with the "pith side" toward the living area and "bark side" toward the studs will minimize this cupping action.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

DR_Buck

I think I saw only one mention of an option to using OSB.  I did this in my first shop and it worked well.  I bought the sheets on sale at the box store for $3.99 each.  I think it is around $5 now.    The cost to do your entire shop would be less than $200 and it could be done in a single day.   If you do go the pine route, I would still use something like OSB or plywood for the ceiling and not drywall, especially if it is a standard 8' height garage.  That way when you are swinging those 8 and 10 foot boards around, you are not poking holes in the ceiling.

My new shop is a conversion of my attached 24' x 32' garage.  This time I insulated, used drywall and ran heat and AC.  8)     I only got to have 2/3 of it though.  I had to give the wife 10' x' 24'  for her embroidery room.   I only wish the ceiling was higher.


This was the garage when I first built it.





This is what it looks like now




Inside views









Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

thecfarm

Where's her side?  :D  Just a kidding ya. That looks some nice. Clean and organized.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Magicman

When I converted my then woodworking shop to a guest house, the walls and ceilings were OSB.  I roller "painted" them with a slurry mixture of sheetrock mud and primer paint which sealed them nicely and smoothed the surface.  The walls were then wallpapered and the ceiling were painted white.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

pineywoods

Dang Buck, no way is that shop useable...too clean and uncluttered, no sawdust on the floor, no piles of lumber everywhere. I guess I need to post some pics of mine as an example  ::)
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

DR_Buck

Quote from: pineywoods on December 19, 2012, 10:24:31 AM
Dang Buck, no way is that shop useable...too clean and uncluttered, no sawdust on the floor, no piles of lumber everywhere. I guess I need to post some pics of mine as an example  ::)

You should see it now!  :D   I can hardly find anything because it's so messy and cluttered.   I need to get cabinets on the walls so I can put stuff away.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Piston

That's a really nice looking shop!  I'd like to see some more pics of anyone's shop if you care to post.  Especially "garage-turned-shop" type wood shops like I'm planning.  I've google imaged a bunch on this subject and have found some really neat shops-all out of my budget however  :D

I'm not against OSB, I didn't realize it was that cheap, I wonder how much it is around my neck of the woods. 
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

tcsmpsi

OSB has doubled in price, here.  Not sure about other parts of the country.  The 7/16 was around 6 bucks, is now over 12.

One thing about green wood... it is wet wood.  What are you thinking of for fasteners?  The wet will dote around the fastener when it makes a path through the wood, which will be caught and held longer than the rest of the wood.  Rust.
\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

Piston

-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

drobertson

Piston, just another thought, if you have access to a molder planer, you can plane one side and profile the lap,

   :christmas:
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Peter Drouin

Hi Piston how about if you shiplap the wood like 1" on the sides you could do it with a router,so when it shrinks you would not see through it, I use dry wood ,but with 1/2 " on the lap, I had to size the wood through the table saw to make sure all the boards are 10" wide, [for me] that way I just plum the first board and go and not plum all of them hope this helps heres my shop

  

  

   :christmas:
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Piston

Quote from: drobertson on December 19, 2012, 05:14:19 PM
Piston, just another thought, if you have access to a molder planer, you can plane one side and profile the lap,
Unfortunately I don't have access to one.  That is really neat though that you can plane and shape all in one pass.  I'd be a T&G making machine with one of those!  ;D

Peter,
That is a great looking shop.  Did you build it from scratch or convert an old outbuilding?  I really like the woodstove and slender brick chimney! 
Your chimney setup looks very similar to the one in my barn in NH.


 
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

Peter Drouin

yes piston I built the house and the shop green house too all of it I started with raw land

 

see how I twisted the chimney on top. on a day with no wind the smoke will spin
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

drobertson

Piston, I use to use a dato blade on pine for making a simple lap joint, I think what paul mentioned.  It will allow for shrinkage with no thru gaps, and as mentioned earlier maybe some 16# felt paper backing it up? Just an idea,  I have stashed pine back for my garage, only to sell it. one day I will finish mine,  good luck man, what ever you do, you might use screws so disassembly will be easier if need be. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

tyb525

Shiplaping with a dado blade is a good idea, gaps won't reveal what's behind the wall that way.

I my shop, I didn't have the pine logs and I didn't want to cover the walls in nice hardwood, so I was able to get 7/16" for a pretty good price, about $6 a year ago. Some places still sell 1/4" OSB, I used that for the ceiling. It's not very strong but it's stronger than 1/2" drywall, and much lighter.

I don't like the looks of OSB, but if you paint it white it really brightens the area up, and it's cheap and easy as anything. But it's still glued together chips of wood ;D
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

drobertson

I wonder how the squeegeez that give a grained look with stain would work on the osb?  we did some metal doors with them, and although they are metal doors, not a bad look.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

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