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Table finish.

Started by 240b, November 30, 2012, 11:55:23 AM

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240b

I am building a new table for the kitchen. The top is two pieces of ponderosa pine. the pieces are 22"x93" they were kiln dried.  Any thoughts on a durable matte finish? Trying to stay any from anything shiny.  thanks

WDH

If you do not use some type of varnish, the finish might not hold up.  I would check with Sherwin Williams.  Their alkyd varnish is very good, and you can get it in a satin finish, but that might still be too shiny for you. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Dan_Shade

i've really come to like a hand rubbed finish of comprised of on part each boiled linseed oil, spar varnish, and mineral spirits
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

T Welsh

I have been using Tung oil for years now and love it. I am a natural finish type of guy! But being a table top it needs a protective type of finish as in poly or varnish.Both come in satin and you can put on numerous coats. Tim

stumpy

I have used "Bona Traffic" floor finish.  It's a two part water bourn finish that is self leveling and is very easy to work with.  It wears like iron and you won't get water rings from glasses.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Tree Feller

I would use a polyurethane finish just for the durability. If satin is still too shiny, you can always knock down the gloss with sandpaper.  Experiment on some scrap to find the grit that gives you the look you want.
Cody

Logmaster LM-1 Sawmill
Kioti CK 30 w/ FEL
Stihl MS-290 Chainsaw
48" Logrite Cant Hook
Well equipped, serious, woodworking shop

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