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WM drive belt tensioner tool question

Started by Jim_Rogers, November 10, 2012, 11:54:57 AM

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Jim_Rogers

Ok, so there are some threads about WM drive belt tension, but I can't seem to find any good explanation of how to use their belt tension gauge tool.

I have all the guards off and was wanting to adjust my belt tension as I hear it squeal sometimes.
And I know it needs adjusting.

I found that the belt was half off the axle pulley.

I adjusted my leather belt brake strap so that the belt won't fall off the axle pulley any more.

I have adjusted my turn buckle to increase the belt tension.

I have one of these belt tension tools:



And I called the factory yesterday and talked to a tech support guy and he said I should hold a framing square in this position:



With the body of the framing square up against the two pulleys making a straight edge parallel with the belt.

Then set the small o-ring on 15 lbs and push the rubber stopper end against the belt and read the deflection at the second dot on the tool.

Well I tried that:



Sorry for the shadow, but it's hard to hold the framing square the tool and the camera all at the same time.

But anyway, when I push the tool in against the belt until it reaches the little o-ring set at 15 pounds the other side of the framing square isn't anywhere near the second dot on the tool.
It around the area where the pocket clip is.

Here is a closeup of the tool and the dots:



So here are my questions.

Am I doing this right?

If now how do you do it?

Is my tension tool set up right? is the label with the dots on it on the right end?
Or did they put mine together wrong?

And advice would be appreciated.

What I have always done in the past was to take the top cover off the belt up above the blade return enclosure and press down on the top side of the belt. There is a bracket there that holds the tray for the water and gas jug that is very close to the drive belt. In later models there is a cut out for the drive belt but in mine it is straight across.

And I pressed down with this new tool until it read 15 lbs and measured the deflection. The belt is already  1/4" off the bar:



And if I added 7/16" deflection it would be 11/16" off the bar.

Pressing down with the tool trying to reach 15 lbs and measuring and taking a picture I see this:



Which appears that I'm not at 15 lbs and the deflection is over 3/4" around 13/16".
If this is true then my belt is too loose still.

I'll have to turn my turn buckle until I get 11/16" deflection at 15 lbs pressure.

Again any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Jim Rogers

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Stephen1

Jim, I am trying to remember my instructions for that tool. Here is what I remember. Find the center of the belt, between pullys. Using a small square straight edge  place it against the steel frame above the center point of the belt. Press the tool up against the belt to the mark suggested and it should be a certain distance on the rule. I think you have used to big a square. does this make sense? 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

wwsjr

Jim, I am also trying to remember instructions. I use an 18" ruler or 24"square. I think my mill adjustment is 7/16" at 18lb. Press the straight edge on belt, press to 18 lbs, should be 7/16" gap from straight edge to belt on tension tool. I am not all mill today, but I think this is correct.
Retired US Army, Full Time Sawyer since 2001. 2013 LT40HD Super with 25HP 3 Phase, Command Control with Accuset2. ED26 WM Edger, Ford 3930 w/FEL, Prentice Log Loader. Stihl 311, 170 & Logrite Canthooks. WM Million BF Club Member.

drobertson

I,m not sure on the deflection as related to pounds of force applied, but that sounds close, I had a tech tell me one time that a good rule of thumb without the tool was at center point you should not be able to twist the belt to a verticle position.  A phone call to a tech, or I,m sure someone will have the numbers for us.  I do know that on the 70's it is 14lbs with a 3/8 deflection in the center. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Jim_Rogers

Thanks to everyone for your comments and for your advice.

After I get my new throttle cable spring and my tach replaced, I'll have to do this all over again to get everything running right.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

MartyParsons

The rubber end is to go against your hand. If you look at the other end there are dots on the body of the tool.

I use it as you show on your pictures. Straight edge should go from Drive to Driven Pulley. drive belt tight. push up on tool till o ring reaches setting desired. Measure the drive belt from straight edge to belt. This distance is your belt deflection. Adjust turnbuckle to decrease deflection.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Jim_Rogers

No wonder it wasn't working right.

It was me using it completely backwards...... no wonder.....

That's the story of my life, backwards for sure.....

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Stephen1

Thats why we have the forum 8), and then we have Marty!!!
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Jim_Rogers

Well, I guess I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right......

Still waiting on my replacement tach to come in.
It seems that the computer at WM said they had one in stock when they didn't.
I hate it when computers lie.

They are sending me a replacement one direct from their supplier.
Once that's installed I can set my high and low idle speed correctly.

I used to have one of the vibrating tachometers but I think I loaned it out to someone and it never came back. Or it's in my shop, somewhere.

And since I have such a neatly organized shop...... NOT....

Oh well, I'll get by for a while.

Customer coming today to have me saw up his walnut:



 

So I've got to go and get the sawmill and backhoe ready.....

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Jim_Rogers

Today, after replacing the broken turnbuckle yesterday, I used my belt tension gage the right way and got my belt tension set correctly.

At least I think it's set correctly. The gage says so and it feels right when I pull down on the clutch lever.

We'll have to see how the blade/belt preform when I'm cutting some wood later on.

While I have all kinds of tools out there I figured it would be a good time to change the oil.

I'm waiting for the old oil to drain, as I type.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

barbender

Jim, it looks like another example of the 50/50/90 rule, where if you have a 50/50 chance you get it wrong 90% of the time :D It looks like you've gotten it figured out now ;)
Too many irons in the fire

Nomad

Quote from: barbender on January 17, 2014, 11:39:14 AM
Jim, it looks like another example of the 50/50/90 rule, where if you have a 50/50 chance you get it wrong 90% of the time :D It looks like you've gotten it figured out now ;)

     Experience tells me that this 100% the truth. :D
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

47sawdust

When I installed the drive belt on my Lt30 I ran a string line over the top of the two pulleys for a reference line to measure to.I think I got the idea from Bibbyman.Worked great.After installing the new drive belt and fooling around with the brake adjustment my mill has never run better.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

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