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Building a bandsaw mill

Started by Ljohnsaw, October 20, 2012, 05:33:08 PM

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Ljohnsaw

Hello all,

I've been lurking for a few weeks now learning all I can - great site!

I'm going to build a bandmill and have seen lots of ideas here and elsewhere.  One idea that intrigues me is having the blade enter the log at an angle such that it actually pulls the mill into the wood.  That way you don't have to push quite so hard on the mill head.  Does anyone have something like this that they can give some feedback?  What angle seems to work the best and do you need to adjust depending on the type of wood being cut?

Right now, I have about 26' of 2" x 4" tube steel that will give me a 13' bed.  I would like to be able to mill in the range of 20'.  So, I was considering adding extensions that would be used just to support the mill head, not logs, and could be made from less stout steel to save weight and money.  Is that sound reasoning?

I also saw a portable mill that would shed it's wheels so the bed is on the ground to make loading logs that much easier.  Any comments on that design?

Thanks!
John

For those of you using electric motors on smaller mills, what size / voltage are you running?  I like the idea of electric, and if small enough, I could run from a generator when remote work is necessary.  Comments, please!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

shelbycharger400

Ok to start out I built a chain bar mill. I have a m14 circle mill that isnt put back together

quote]One idea that intrigues me is having the blade enter the log at an angle such that it actually pulls the mill into the wood.[/quote]

Entering the log at an angle isnt going to do anything special for you. The only way a blade will pull the log is think table saw. The board riding on top of the blade pinches then it grabs and throws the board.  You want to have your saw at 90 deg to the bed or at same plane as the bed.  As with all mills, from what I understand is, circle mill wants to pull the log down as it shears off shavings. My slabber wants to pull the log off the deck to the side and will pull the log out the clamps if sharpened the wrong profile.

make the deck/trailer as LONG as you can! with the rails one piece on each side!
PUT several jacks on the sides. I wish I would have when assembling mine. Mine is only 14 ft long, setup can only cut 9 ft 3 inches max. Its not fun using a 2x4 to lift  the corners to put the wheels on, also its not fun putting boards and shims to level it out.  Car screw jacks would work real well!
Also do your homework,  I spent over a year and a half thinking. pm me if you have some ideas and questions. take a look at my galary and look at my mill, some things might help you, I have changed a few things about it cince the pictures.

davey duck

Hi ,John . I also built a bandsaw ,I used two 30 foot I-beams for the frame ,it will cut 24' logs,better make it long enough to start with. I also run a 10hp electric motor that takes up to 52 amps.David
David G.Fleming

paul case

I had an ez boardwalk model 40 that cut at an angle, 15° I think. It would pull the head into the cut with a new band, but as it got sharpened down the effect was less.

Good luck on the build.
Go big. I never heard of somone wishing they had a smaller mill, just a smaller payment. PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

mikeb1079

i built a bandsaw mill last year and it was a challenging but rewarding project.  here's my thoughts....

QuoteOne idea that intrigues me is having the blade enter the log at an angle such that it actually pulls the mill into the wood.

i don't think this is a bad idea, it's just not something i would mess around with.  having to push the carriage through the cut is no big deal.  it'll be the least of your labors.   :)

QuoteRight now, I have about 26' of 2" x 4" tube steel that will give me a 13' bed.  I would like to be able to mill in the range of 20'.  So, I was considering adding extensions that would be used just to support the mill head, not logs, and could be made from less stout steel to save weight and money.  Is that sound reasoning?

i made my mill bed 16' long and with my carriage setup i can mill around 12 1/2'.  when i built it i thought "man that's plenty long i'll never need to mill anything longer than 12'!"  well i quickly regretted not making the bed 20' or longer.  remember, it's not necessarily that the logs will be that long but it's often getting them in the right position that can be a pain.  for example if you have a really really heavy log that's around 10' your gonna have to load it perfectly in order to mill it if your cut capacity is only just longer.  otherwise you'll have to jack around and move it forward or back to be able to mill it.  trust me this is not easy sometimes.   :)   

i'm not exactly sure what you mean by track extensions only to support the carriage and not the log but i think i understand.  i would make the bed as long and as beefy as possible.  i built mine out of 2x6 1/4" steel and it can stand up to some weight.  just remember that logs are really really heavy and if you don't make your bed stout you'll regret it.   >:(

QuoteI also saw a portable mill that would shed it's wheels so the bed is on the ground to make loading logs that much easier.

i think there's a few smaller portable mills where you stick an axle under the saw bed for transport and then remove axle and set saw bed on ground to saw, is this what your asking about?
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

thecfarm

I brought my mill, I can cut a 20 foot log, never have only 16 foot. It helps to be able to get the head out of the way. And as mike says I don't have to be too fussy where the log goes on the mill. I have feet to play with,not inches. My does not cut at an angle, but pushes very easy. If not,it's time to change the blade.  :( Mine runs on ¼"X 4 inch angle and has 2X6 tubing under that.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: mikeb1079 on October 20, 2012, 10:38:33 PM
<<snip>>
i'm not exactly sure what you mean by track extensions only to support the carriage and not the log but i think i understand.

There needs to be a place for the mill head to ride at each end of the log to start and finish the cut.  I was just thinking that section of track wouldn't necessarily need to support the log...

Quote
i think there's a few smaller portable mills where you stick an axle under the saw bed for transport and then remove axle and set saw bed on ground to saw, is this what your asking about?

Yes.  It seems to me it much easier to roll a log up 4 or 5 inches up onto the deck than 2 or 3 feet!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

beenthere

As long as you don't mind bending down to set the clamps, and pick up the slabs and the boards.....
but I'd go for getting the log up once and then not bend over for the cut material. ;)  prolly just me.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: beenthere on October 21, 2012, 12:21:54 AM
As long as you don't mind bending down to set the clamps, and pick up the slabs and the boards.....
but I'd go for getting the log up once and then not bend over for the cut material. ;)  prolly just me.

EXCELLENT point!  That's why I asked for different points of view.  I'm not a youngster, but then again, I see a lot of loggers here that are a little longer in the tooth than me  ;)

Also, I'd have more room to level the rig if it's elevated.  Tho, does it need to be all that level?  Just well supported?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

bandmiller2

Welcome John,1) don't cut the tube get anouther to match.2) forget the angle thing it will complicate construction.3)have your mill at a comfortable working hight it will also give you room for turners,clamps est. If you can manage it, go three phase electric,grid or genny.The ability to cut long is valuable and something every mill can't do,especially in your area where long and big logs are available.If you build you will get out what you put in, sloppy workmanship sloppy mill.Look at as many bandmills as you can find,use the best ideas on each.Have everything level and plumb as you build the mill,and build it heavier than you think you'll ever need.Good luck and a tail wind. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Meadows Miller

Gday

And Welcome to The Forum John   ;) ;D ;D 8) And What Frank Said is Spoton I use to cut upto 55' and 55' timber is prety dang valuable Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

thecfarm

I missed the electric part or I would of posted about that. I kinda wished I would of gone that route. My Honda gas motor sits and waits for me,sometimes not patiently either. Meaning I have to do something to it each time. This last time it set for 3 years before I needed it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

SPD748

Quote from: davey duck on October 20, 2012, 07:24:12 PM
Hi ,John . I also built a bandsaw ,I used two 30 foot I-beams for the frame ,it will cut 24' logs,better make it long enough to start with. I also run a 10hp electric motor that takes up to 52 amps.David

Do you find that 10 hp electric is enough for most sawing? I have been researching this topic for the past few months as I complete my circle mill. It looks like 10 hp is about as large as a single phase motor goes. I did find a 15 hp single phase however the price was significantly higher than a similar three phase motor. I concluded that if anything more than 10 hp was required then a rotary phase converter and a three phase motor would be more cost effective. I, along with many of us, am restricted from grid three phase power without significant installation costs.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

Ljohnsaw

I'm working on my plans for a band mill.  I'm curious what the dimensions on the tubes for the rails might be on some of your comercial units (or even home-built).  I'm going with 5x2 tube and either .120 or .250. The difference in weight is significant for what I would be able to move around.  The rail will also have a 1x1x 1/8" angle pointed up welded on top.  The tie bars will be 4x2 and the entire width of the rails will be 40-42".

Thanks for your input!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Solomon

Mine is 3x6  1/4 inch thick wall tubing.  Probabley more than you want if you're trying to keep the weight down.   You may want to ask around on here. You might be able to find a mill that suites your needs ready to go. pc_smiley
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

The Path to Salvation is narrow, and the path to damnnation is wide.

beenthere

ljohnsaw
Maybe keep the bandsaw building in the same thread, so your ideas and plans and questions stick together.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61315.msg900873.html#msg900873
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

grweldon

Personally, there's a big difference in the strength of 1/8" wall and 1/4" wall.  If I were designing one from scratch, I wouldn't use 1/8.  Possibly 3/16, but most likely 1/4 or thicker.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

york

The bed rails on my TH are 3by6 and 3/16th thick-you need meat for welding.....albert
Albert

thecfarm

Mine was built by a metal shop here in Maine. ¼" X4"angle that the wheels run on and than under that is 2X4 tubing. I can roll a 2 foot square cant,which is not often,without having to worry about bending or having to reline it. I'm not too easy with anything that I have. I try to be,but things happen.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

SPD748

Do yourself a favor, go with the 1/4" wall thickness. Yeah, it's heavier, but when a + 2000 lb log is rolling around on it you'll thank yourself  :)

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

Ljohnsaw

OK, there is a consensus! 8)  I'm going with ¼" wall  ;D

Quote from: beenthere on October 30, 2012, 01:46:10 PM
ljohnsaw
Maybe keep the bandsaw building in the same thread, so your ideas and plans and questions stick together.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61315.msg900873.html#msg900873

I'm confused ???, the link above points to this thread.  Am I missing something or did my thread get re-organized?  Thank you if it was...

I'm going with a 20' length of 5x2x.250 only because the sticks come in that length.  I do have some 4x2 that I might rig up as an extension, possibly just for the carriage, at each end.

Next question (and an opportunity for other to post some pics) is on the cross member for the rails. I'm guessing that the log needs to be supported at a level high enough that you can get pretty close to the bottom with the blade so you can get the final cuts.  Or, do you stack the last bit on some already cut boards/beams to slice it up?

I've seen a few adjustable "bunks" for lifting one end or the other of the log.  If you have something that you really like, I'd like to see a picture of what you have.  I'm going manual on this mill at this time, no hydraulics.

Initially, I will probably be taking the mill to the log.  I was planning on spacing the cross members about 4 foot on center (5 cross members) with an adjustable leg for each rail (10 legs), sound adequate or too much?  I know, never too much or too thick!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

paul case

Now is the time to start looking for a good engine. That may take some time, so keep your ear to the ground for it. Resaerch to see what fits you.
I have had gas motors and they work. Real good for portable. Honda 20 hp has been a good motor for me. I have used an onan. That is all I have to say about the onan I used. I now have a kohler 25 works real well and sips gas compared to the onan.

I would have less money invested in electric. If you are planning for stationary look into it. I have purchased a 20 hp phase converter that will start a 20 hp motor and run 2 of them. I purchased a resaw with 15hp 3 phase and may purchase another motor for my mill and switch it to electric too. 1 motor and the converter is going to cost a little less than the gas engine and should save me as much as $300 a month in gas. Plus it should be more power since electric motors seem to have double the hp comapared to gas motors.PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

thecfarm

I don't feel you need extension on each end. If the head is in the way,I just crank up the blade and move it back to it's starting place. My head is set up so it cuts an inch board the last cut. It will not go any lower so I will not hit my dogs,IF I lower them all the way down.  ::)
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

york

Kohler,now has a few Diesels you could look into..
Albert

thecfarm

Mine have a "Point" on each bunk. I can move my bunks on my mill. I can cut a piece of wood a foot long wood,no jig. Just a ¾ socket to move the bunks.

Here is a picture.

 

 

But the idea I wanted to show was the point. I use the log stop when the log is round. Than when I have it square on 2 sides I drop the stop and use the point. That point is about ½" high.
I just noticed that is the stop I sawed the top of from too.  :(   There should be a little 1 inch lip on the top of the stop. The lip helps to move the stop up and down.I do have some so called marks on my log stops now. This helps when I am edging. I have it marked from 4-10 inches so I can tell at a glance that I will either clear the top or try to cut it off. I have learned that much.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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