mill shed started

[valley]

 

  getting started cypress 8x8 post going two feet in ground drilled rebar thru both directions 16 ft from slab to top of post

[valley]

 

  22 ft lam beam 6x20' one on each side of mill also put anchors in concrete at all jack points just thought it would keep mill from vibrating and getting bumped around from big logs

[valley]

 

  first attemp ar raising beams my son in law drives a piggyback rig for a local lbr yard it wouldnt go but 13 ft so he came up with this plan i could see this ending in death so we ditched this plan

[valley]

 

  remted a hand crank lift much safer and it got em up there

[valley]

 

  sharpening shed down stairs office / break room upstairs elec company getting us hot in the background

[redbeard]

Thats going to be some mill shed its nice having a room behind the mill for blades and tools. The office is even better!

[valley]

 

  ran i lil short on rafters so back to cutting love not running to the lbr yard

[valley]

Thats going to be some mill shed its nice having a room behind the mill for blades and tools. The office is even better!

thanks ive been cutting outdoors only since i got the mill im really looking forwrd tom pulling her in there and getting to work

[Chuck White]

I really like the mill shed especially with an office and a break room.

Makes me smile when someone says "we're going to run out of XxXx", especially when my mill is still on site.

I just tell them to bring me another log and we'll make one!  ;D

[Ga Mtn Man]

Looks like you're doing a first rate job on that "shed".   Is that a TK B20 you're sawing with?

[Shotgun]

Picture posting tutorial:  Not certain why the PM method didn't work. Try it here valley:


https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56957.0.html

[valley]

Looks like you're doing a first rate job on that "shed".   Is that a TK B20 you're sawing with?

Yes it is and my first mill got it last nov really enjoy it it's an 08 had 70 hrs when I got it 450 now

[valley]

Picture posting tutorial:  Not certain why the PM method didn't work. Try it here valley:
Thanks

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56957.0.html

[Sawdust Lover]

Looks like you know what your doing. Did you say you were going to anchor the mill to the concrete? Great idea! My 2000 Timberking moves everytime I put a log on it.

[beenthere]

SDL
How are you putting a log on it?

Might be better that the mill moves a bit, rather than anchoring it down so it can't move.... as then something might just bend or worse, like fail.

Loading ramps or loading deck so logs can roll onto the mill are a good idea. Nice and gentle.

[valley]

Looks like you know what your doing. Did you say you were going to anchor the mill to the concrete? Great idea! My 2000 Timberking moves everytime I put a log on it.

Yes thought I'd anchor it as it will move when I load big logs I had it set up in one spot about three months on the ground and it moved about a foot in all from the bigger logs rolling down the arms just gradually bumping it over so I just figured it would be even worse on the concrete

[valley]

SDL
How are you putting a log on it?

Might be better that the mill moves a bit, rather than anchoring it down so it can't move.... as then something might just bend or worse, like fail.

Loading ramps or loading deck so logs can roll onto the mill are a good idea. Nice and gentle.

I am building loading ramps as well out of some 6" steel pipe I was just figuring on drilling a hole in the foot of each jack and placing theme down over the bolts was just thinking that on concrete even vibration may make it move rt now I load logs with the hydralic arms and that's what I will still do was thinking about putting ramp at height wher turn out on bottom of arms is even with ramp that side of slab is about 12" off ground the log ramp will keep logs elevated if need washed and make for little resistance when rolling just my thoughts but I'm open to any ideas

[Sawdust Lover]

SDL
How are you putting a log on it?

Might be better that the mill moves a bit, rather than anchoring it down so it can't move.... as then something might just bend or worse, like fail.

Loading ramps or loading deck so logs can roll onto the mill are a good idea. Nice and gentle.

I put them on with the log loader and sometimes use my tractor. But they dont always go on gentle even if I try. If they roll on to hard and hit the log stops it will move the mill an inch or so. Not such a big deal but my mill is in a building and needs to stay square or it gets hard to move around the tounge end. But I guess your right if it didn't move something could bend or break. But I dont really think I am putting them on there that hard. It just takes a small bump.

[123maxbars]

How did you attach the beam to the post? Did you treat the post sections that are going in the ground/concrete them in the ground? I am starting my shed next week, still finalizing my ideas, 

[Woodchuck53]

Nice shed. Good idea on the type of lift you changed to. You have plenty of help it seems but we still need to look close.

What are you roofing with, tin or composit? What siding do you have in mind? Like the picures to by the way.

[valley]

How did you attach the beam to the post? Did you treat the post sections that are going in the ground/concrete them in the ground? I am starting my shed next week, still finalizing my ideas,

Attached beam by notching 6" out of post leaving 2" sticking up then used 6" lags thru the 2" sticking up and into the beam did the notching with a chainsaw and yes I coated the cypress post with roofing tar from the end up to about 1/2" before they come out of the concrete

[valley]

Nice shed. Good idea on the type of lift you changed to. You have plenty of help it seems but we still need to look close.

What are you roofing with, tin or composit? What siding do you have in mind? Like the picures to by the way.

I agre on the lift the Soninlaw idea was a lil crazy will get some close ups Monday roofing will be galvalium and the siding I'm thinking will be different on different sides so my customers can see different species and styles one side will be cypress lapped 8" the front of tools shed ( under roof ) I'm thinking red oak board and batten style one side 6" cedar lapped and back probably cypress board and bat with a tinted sealer basically I'm thinking the hole thing will kind of be a big sample board

[redbeard]

Valley I will be anchoring my B20 to concrete also, still have to pour pad. I have it anchored to 3x6 it moves around a bit but its pretty solid. I had ramps but they got in way of tractor and boom truck so I just use a couple of big timbers with a angle on end so logs drop down on arms. Also clean up is tougher when you start getting permenant nooks n crannys. Having good lighting is real important and a fan behind you blowing forward helps when sawing real dry stuff. Sure like your shed you really got me thinking , I think a remodel is in my near future.

[valley]

Valley I will be anchoring my B20 to concrete also, still have to pour pad. I have it anchored to 3x6 it moves around a bit but its pretty solid. I had ramps but they got in way of tractor and boom truck so I just use a couple of big timbers with a angle on end so logs drop down on arms. Also clean up is tougher when you start getting permenant nooks n crannys. Having good lighting is real important and a fan behind you blowing forward helps when sawing real dry stuff. Sure like your shed you really got me thinking , I think a remodel is in my near future.

thanks i was thinking about the nooks a crannys if i do the steel i was going to put theme in sleeves that are concreted in the ground so i can just lift out of way with f.e.l im doing a fan behind as well as a wood heater and the lighting i was thinking halogen works lts but after reading on here it seems they have flouresents with the right bulbs that will work in the cooler temps still tossed up on exactlly which kind of lighting