help selecting new table saw

[Compensation]

It is time to upgrade to a new saw from the old craftsman homemade wooden stand saw. I have been looking alot at the porter cable saw at Lowes. It is the $600 one. The fence seemed nice and stiff and it would match my new 14"bandsaw. But there is always a new toy that goes overlooked. I am afraid this might be one of those saws that the tilt breaks or blade height crank stops working, i just feel that something might happen that might pith me off a bit. I would like to stay under 1200 bucks, let me know your experience on saws you have used.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

This is a very good thread......I've been having the same thoughts.
I have always looked at table saws from Lowe's and Home Depot as hobby saws which suit my needs.

What type of wood work do you do?

I will also be looking for advice.

Thanks Comp.

[WDH]

For a little more than $1200, you can get a very nice 3 HP cabinet saw from Grizzly.

I bought a SawStop with the flesh sensing technology.  Controversial in some sense, but life is short and I want to keep all my fingers.  Table saws are dangerous, especially if you use one a lot.  Easy to get complacent and careless.

[Larry]

Whatever saw you get it should have a minimum of 3 hp.  That goes double for anybody on this forum who just might be cutting thicker stock or green lumber.

The used market is where to look.  Unisaw's can be found from $500 to $1,000 in abundance.  They are pretty much the standard saw in the cabinet making world.  I've bought and sold three, all of which were good saws.  My present Unisaw came out of a window makers shop.  It was bought new in '74 and used hard for 25 years when I picked it up.  I replaced the switch with a motor starter and I think the previous owner replaced the motor capacitor.  That's been the only maintaince.  I've added a sliding table and Unifence.  The standard Jetlock fence is good...just a bit quirky.

I wouldn't pass up a clean Powermatic, or a Oliver either.  Actually there both heavier saws meant for harder use.  Just a lot harder to find in good condition.

Even though the SawStop comes from across the waters it's a great idea.  I could have bought two SawStop's for what I spent fixing my finger more than 30 years ago.  Just a little slip :-[.

[Compensation]

Fast responses! I would be using the saw for furniture making and riping. Hardwoods mostly, but when i build or remodel then lots of pine I want to get into selling furniture so thats where i am headed.

Either the automated translator is sensitive or administrators are on it making "pith" for me :p

The sawstop has came a long way. Last time i seen it in a video it destroyed the saw. Or that was a different brand. I feel like i would become care free if i had it anyways.

Out of the 4 saws mentioned here, what one has the least amount of plastic or undersized components. Nothing like paying over a grand for a saw that uses 1/8th inch shaft for adjustment cranks.

Thank you

[thecfarm]

I'll tag along too. Mine will probaly be used like my planer,once every 2-3 years.

[beenthere]

Might look for used.  Just glanced at our CL and two popped up.

A 10" American Machine & Tool 4572 with a 1 HP Baldor motor  $60

A 10" Delta/Rockwell 34-345 with 3/4 HP motor, and table extensions.  $90

Another Delta Contractor saw (looks great in the pic) that has this description (just to give an example of three picked off quick).  $600

This is a delta contractor saw. It comes with an out feed table, miter gauge, 3 inserts one is a zero clearance, panel cutting jig, taper leg cutting jig, sacrificial fence for cutting rabbits with a dado blade, two push sticks owners manual and more

[Dan_Shade]

if you have the room, build an outfeed table.  they make the saw safer to use, and much easier too.

[T Welsh]

I went the used market like Larry said. Found and older used Delta/Rockwell for $400. Did a little cleaning and a new belt and it works as good as new. 3HP motor a good fence and a heavy cast table. These older machines are built to last a life time, Unlike the newer models with plastic parts. Used ones in my area can be found for under $1000 in most cases and are well worth the investment. I have found that a sharp saw blade of good quality is the most important part of a table saw, along with an accurate fence. Tim

[WDH]

Most all new saws are made in China and Taiwan.  I am not sure that there is an American made one anymore.  If you are not going to go with the flesh sensing technology, then an older used saw will be of better quality than what is new on the market today in terms of stoutness and fit and finish.  However, most of these old do not have a riving knife, and a riving knife makes your saw much safer.  Also, dust collection has improved, so there are some good qualities in the new saws that the old ones do not have. 

[thecfarm]

riving knife?   could google it,but I know you like to explain big words. :D

[WDH]

It is like a splitter, but it shaped like a shark fin and moves up and down with the blade.  A splitter like on the old saws has to be taken off for a number of cuts whereas the riving knife almost never has to be taken off.  The problem with the splitter is that you take it off to make a few cuts, then do not take the time to put it back on.  Kick-back can hurt you really bad, and it can pull your hands into the blade. 

http://www.thesharkguard.com/pdf/rivingknife.pdf

[thecfarm]

So that what's that thing is called.How right you are about putting it back on. Probaly most just disappear over the years too.

[beenthere]

I made one to bolt into place as I don't use the blade guard ever.
Built it when a kick back nearly pierced my innards.

[Holmes]

  I have a Dewalt 3/4 cabinet, 10" saw, with 1.5 hp motor. It has handled all of my projects including restoring the old farm house.  It has the sliding table and the fence system is decent, and a roll around base { that has been real handy}.  New  10 years ago was $950 complete

[Axe Handle Hound]

I have a left tilting contractor saw from Grizzly and it's been great to me.  Plenty of power when wired to 220, the fence is good for a saw in that price point, and the on/off switch is right next to my left hand where it should be.  I'd buy another table saw from them without a doubt.  That being said, the Rigid contractor style table saw sold at Home Depot got good reviews a couple of years ago.  It's worth looking at as well.  Whatever model you choose, upgrade to a link belt if possible.  I put one on my saw and it reduced the amount of vibration more than I could have ever imagined.  Well worth the money.

[Tree Feller]

If you are planning to build furniture then a 3 hp cabinet saw is the minimum, IMNSHO.

I think General (made in Canada) are the only North American table saw manufacturer. They build quality saws but they are understandably higher-priced than the Asian-built equivalent. Their General International brand is Asian built.

I personally believe Grizzly offers the best value in tablesaws. If I was purchasing a saw now, I'd be very inclined towards their GO 691. It's a left-tilting, 10", 3 hp cabinet saw with the long rails allowing 50" cut right of blade.

If you overlook the legal shenanigans of Steve Gass then the Sawstop is one of the better built Asian saws and it also has the flesh-sensing, blade-stop technology. If my grandson takes an interest in woodworking when he is older, I'll likely get a Sawstop or similar for him.  Hopefully the other mfg's will have their version available by then.   ;)

[Brad_bb]

I'm going to buy a Sawstop.  One trip to the emergency room for a finger or more taken off will cost waaaay more than the price of a sawstop table saw.  Plus I want to keep my fingers.

But second to that, I will sell you my 1953 Delta Unisaw.  I bought it from the original owner who used it little and it's in excellent condition.  I paid him $1100 for it 3 years ago, and I've only had occastional use at best.  Let me know if you're interested. (it has the dust cover for the motor too, and I removed the dust door and made a customer hose port door.  still have the original door to go with it.  Oh, and i ALSO have a router table cast iron add on so the saw table is also a router table with removable fence.  Let me know if you're interested.  I can send you pics.  And I drive from Joliet to indy several times a year.

[hackberry jake]

I have a general 2hp table saw I bought lightly used for $400 and it's awesome, that is until you try to move it  8). If I had to buy another table saw, I would try to find one just like it. If Canada can make table saws, why can't the us? I guess cause we are all cheap.

[Larry]

For about as long as I've had a table saw I've also had some form of crosscut sled for added capacity.  With my last sled I could crosscut up to 42" but as you can imagine it was big and heavy.  A real pain to store and get off/on the saw.  Gave it to a forum member when I moved from N. Missouri.

Of course I had a plan...some time before I managed to buy a Dewalt sliding table built for their saw.  I managed to mate it with my Unisaw.  Chronicled here.  The saw also had an outfeed and side table added after that post.  Since then I have completed two major projects.  Every single crosscut was made on the table saw.  I do have a big Dewalt RAS, and a Bosch sliding CMS in the stable so it's not like I had to.

From my perspective, I'll never be without a sliding table again.  Oliver made one with a bit more capacity than what I have...if only I could fine one it would look just fine on my shop floor.

[jimparamedic]

For the time being  whats wrong with the old saw? how about up grading it new motor, and such.

[clww]

I've had a Grizzly saw I bought new over 10 years ago. No complaints here.

[Sawdust Lover]

I bet your confussed now on which one to buy. Looks like they all have nice saws. I have had several over the last 20 years in my woodworking buisness. Everyone has there own opinion on what they own but you will get what you pay for unless you get an older saw. I have a 3hp Sawstop. Great saw, well built and smooth. I also have a ridgig for sawing dados. If I only had a budget of $1000.00 I would get an older 3hp saw because they are heavier and more powerful. General makes great saws! If you decide to go with an older one try to find a one owner from a one or two man shop. The saws from big cabinet shops would run 6 to 8 hrs a day 5 days a week. Good luck and go big!

[sawwood]

I also had a Sears saw and it worked ok for what i was doing. Then i started needing
more hp to cut thicker hardwoods. Looked for a while then found a used Unisaw on
Craigs list for $500. Looked at it and it was in good shape but had a 3 hp 3 ph motor.
Talked the guy down to 400. Brough it home and it just needed cleaning. Found a 5 hp
  220 sp for 200 and putting the Vega Fence off the Sears and i have a saw that will out
last me. May be find some wood workers in your area and look at what they have, may
help you deside what you like,

  Lester

[Compensation]

I will look at General saws also. I don't mind a old saw but don't want to spend a lifetime searching for parts. I like the grizzly alot. One thing i have noticed looking through their book is they have alot of other brand equipment in their name. Seen my craftsman pro 13" planner that had different tables and said grizzly.  Also my portercable bandsaw said grizzly. Like my dads john deere mower is a mtd. Also a handful of homeowner mower's are actually mtd.

As for the craftsman, it is stuck all the way up and also stuck at 45° angle. Unless i am making picture frames it will be trashed.

G1023rlwx grizzly is what i am looking at. I would like to go for a $5k saw but i still have to stay somewhat practical. I might only use it every other weekend or everyday, i dont know where i am headed yet.

If you have a saw you want to sell me, i dont mind used but i wont pay over 500 for anything used. Because 600 i can get a portercable that has a warranty and have played with it in person. All i have to do is drive to Lowe's. PM me if you have something