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Lucas Mill Questions

Started by sigidi, September 13, 2012, 03:43:06 AM

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sigidi

It occurred to me after doing a little thing on Log supportshttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,60546.0.html for Log Boy, are there any Lucas guys out there - or others for that matter, that have some questions about how things are done around a Lucas?

I can't say I'm a professional, or that I do it "the right way" but I do get to cut a fair bit and get to do a whole heap of varied stuff with my Lucas. recently down under had a chap on our Aussie forum asking about loading long logs into the mill and it just happened a couple weeks later I was loading 6m logs into the mill when my endframes where about 5m apart.

More than happy to take a bit of time during a milling day take some pics or vids of some stuff if any of you guys want to see things?

Let me know here and I can try upload some stuff for ya ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

tjhammer

sigidi
do you center the pith when setting your log or just level the top I have a frame with dogs and can't center and dog to I can saw 3/4  to the frame not much waste
tj
hammer

sigidi

TJ, not quite sure what ya meant when ya said "have a frame with dogs and cant center and dog", but any-who  ;)

So on setting up, once I've got the log in and sitting how I want it on the skids, I either paint it with a single line...



at both ends of the log and then line up the vertical with this paint line. I do this if I'm cutting landscape/sleeper grade timber, and I then have the rails parallel to the bottom of the log.
If I'm cutting structural grade timber or going to do a boxed heart post I paint each end with two lines...



So in this case I line up the vertical either by slipping the log sideways, or sliding one endframe sideways - I don't bother with using a tape to do it, I put the blade vertical and use the blade at one end, lock the carriage off then bring the carriage back to the other end of the log and adjust as needed. Then I drop a tape down from the underside of the carriage to the centre of the two lines to adjust the tracks in the horizontal and make both ends the same. this way when I go to box the heart I should have a nice pink cross on each end of the post pretty much in the middle ;D



Hopefully that helps a bit.

Always willing to help - Allan

tjhammer

your saying you adjust for log taper with the saw rails when you want to box the heart on my saw,I have steel rails the saw head runs on with steel cross members the log lays on with log dogs on the cross rails I can not adjust for log taper unless I raise one end of the log to center the heart if I do this I canot dog the log on the raised end unless I bunk the end which works sometimes,sometimes it don't
tj
hammer

fishpharmer

tj, off subject, but didn't you build your own swingmill?  If so, how did it turn out?
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

tjhammer

how are you doing fishpharmer
yes I did and it turned out great after alot of doing and undoing but I run across a brandx at a real bargan so I bought it and using it now its not as robust as my saw so now I'm using everything on the saw to build a dimension saw havent decided on a 10''cut or a 12''cut, a dimension saw is a lot easier to build.
tj
hammer

fishpharmer

Thanks for asking tj, I'm doing okay.  Brand X makes a neat mill.  You have any pics?

I have enjoyed having the Lucas 618.  Sigidi here has shared many useful tips.  Sigidi thanks for the tips and my apologies for the interruption.

Sigidi, I like your idea of measuring from carriage to the center of the log to center things. 
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

sigidi

TJ, now I understand you have a set up similar to a brandx - mate sorry, but can't really offer much assistance on that. I have to admit when I saw one I just hated the look of all that metal to keep stepping over all day and yeah, there is very little flexibility when it comes to things like lining up the heart - another reason I love the Lucas, so much flexibility to do a whole heap of stuff.

Is it possible ton you 'deck' to make some of the log supports able to move in the vertical plane, ya know lift the log bring up the support then pin it or somethin like that?

Thanks  Fish, you are too kind mate, just throwing up stuff people may find interesting. Another one I tend to get asked a lot is log handling, might do a bit of old school handling and get the better half to take some footage - probably need to re-visit it after havin bob the cat for a while :D
Always willing to help - Allan

Nomad

     Sigidi, here's a question.  When you're slabbing do you use motor oil in the bar oiler, as recommended?  I've had a couple of people question that out of concern for the environment.  I'd like to find a more environmentally friendly alternative.  Any suggestions?
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

fishpharmer

Nomad, I can offer an alternative that I most likely learned about here on FF.  Use vegetable oil instead of motor oil. 

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Nomad

     Fish, I hadn't thought about that.  Have you tried it?  Work okay?
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

fishpharmer

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

hackberry jake

If you had a log that was a mile away, would it be easier to take the log to the mill or take the mill to the log?
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

shelbycharger400

I tried canola oil once in my chain bar mill. I was NOT happy with it at all.
sticky gewy junk, it seemed to gum up more than what it was worth.  that stuff was stuck all over everything.  I use bar oil or motor oil now.  Motor oil flows a small bit better.

Ianab

Quote from: hackberry jake on September 14, 2012, 02:45:45 PM
If you had a log that was a mile away, would it be easier to take the log to the mill or take the mill to the log?

If the log is heavier than the mill, I usually move the mill. Sometimes that's only 10 feet  :D

I just look at what's easier. I can move the mill to another log by myself in about 10mins. If it's going to take longer (*and be more work) to manhandle a log, the log stays put.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

mikeb1079

QuoteI tried canola oil once in my chain bar mill. I was NOT happy with it at all.

i've used canola oil many times when chainsaw milling and cross cutting and it seemed to work just fine for me.  i didn't have any of the sticky/gummy issues although i've heard that in colder weather this can happen.  i was running it in the fall or spring typically.   smiley_bouncing
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

logboy

You can use water by spraying it with a hose on the bar as you cut , but expect more wear on the bar. I'd charge more.  I use old trans fluid on the bar, and dribble water on the bar and chain every couple feet of cutting. Keeping the temps down has almost doubled the time between sharpenings.  Just finished day 2 of slabbing. I have another long day tomorrow. Sliced up a 45" wide elm until I hit some sort of mystery object in the middle. Its not metal since the detector didnt pick it up. Could be another rock I suppose. Either way the brand new chain is in rough shape.



Here is today's haul. The 46" wide elm is on the other side, half sawn.



Here is the White Oak that is nicely cut and stacked on the truck in the previous photo. I'm 6' tall for reference. Almost needed a ladder to get up on the thing to start cutting. The elm is larger though.



I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

sigidi

Quote from: nomad on September 14, 2012, 06:41:45 AM
     Sigidi, here's a question.  When you're slabbing do you use motor oil in the bar oiler, as recommended?  I've had a couple of people question that out of concern for the environment.  I'd like to find a more environmentally friendly alternative.  Any suggestions?
Nomad, I do use engine oil, but new not used. I have in the past also utliised used automatic transmission fluid and adapated things on my 6-18 to run water on the back of the bar whilst running oil on the front. A chap who does chainsaw slabbing down here swears by canola oil. I dont see any issue with using engine oil for the environment, the 3l bottle takes almost 8 hours of slabbing to run through, so that is a huge wack of sawdust it is 'soaked' up into.

Quote from: hackberry jake on September 14, 2012, 02:45:45 PM
If you had a log that was a mile away, would it be easier to take the log to the mill or take the mill to the log?

Without Bob, I'd happily move the mill. With Bob I'd go off and get the log then bring it back
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy


Hey Sigidi, want to help me sharpen chains? Took me an hour and a half to do this lot. Two of them hit rocks inside the tree and are in bad shape.
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

shelbycharger400

How many links between those cutters on that Hyperskip chain?

I wonder if i can completely remove my ground rakers. every 5 between the pairs, i cut them into rakers and sharpen them the same as the cutters. .  It shure whould be easier to grind them flush off then to just cut the tails

Is it me or is Eastern red cedar More abrasive? 

How thick You cut that oak and elm?         If i can get this back yard disaster done here , i have a nice 24 in dia red oak waiting at the neighbors.   decided about 99 percent of my short logs are getting busted into firewood, Im sick of them

sigidi

Logboy, I'd be more than happy mate :D
I recall you asking about storing slabbing chains and I'd taken the pics but they weren't great and I didn't have much time to do the write up - anyway here goes...

So I use the Lucas sharpening jig, nice idea and makes sharpening very civilised, I used to sharpen the chain on the slabber between slabs when needed and when ya start to get to the bottom of a log it gets a tad uncomfortable down there, anyway. I like the jig cos it can drop on the rails while milling and I set slabbing up on a gradient then I can sharpen a chain while the mill rolls away into the slab using a sharp chain ;D ;) Here is the chain setup on my bench at home...



it worked out really good, you might just be able to see a bit of fencing wire pushing into the side wall with my workshop light hanging off it - the whole thing worked out perfectly with the little rechargeable workshop light hanging over the right spot on the chain. In this case I clamped one of my 2m track extensions to the bench with a pair of F clamps and dropped the sharpening jig on. Once the chains are sharpened then I roll them up...







It's much easier to do it than photograph it, but you get the idea (again sorry for quality pics - shed at night and mobile phone don't make for the best pics) then I can store them in my custom made slabbing chain storage devices, sorry guys but you may have to shell out some $'s if you want to look after your chains like this...



Ya like the simplicity of it? just 2 litre cut off soft drink bottles, I like the Pepsi ones as compared to the coca-cola ones as the Pepsi ones have a better shape for the chains



There ya have it ;D

Shelby, I run two different types of chains, a 3 skip and a 5 skip, I like to use the 3 skip on 'small' slabs and the 5 skip on 'big' slabs, so often I open a slab log with the 3 skip, do a few slabs til it gets blunt when I say blunt I guage this by how hard I have to push to get the motor to drop revs, if I have to 'lean' my body weight against it to drop to 3350 revs then it's blunt, if I can get to 3350 with one hand then she's right. Then I change over to the 5skip for the wider part of the log and if need be, drop another 5 skip on for the wide part before coming back to a 3 kip for the bottom - having said all this I don't bother slabbing anything less than 2' diameter and tend toward 2'6" or greater as my "I might slab that" pile.
Removing those rakers will make a big difference on sharpening time and I'm not sure it will make any performance losses for ya - hey give one chain a go...

Hope it helps

Always willing to help - Allan

Holmes

Sigidi  you are doing great with all of this information. Thank You ...
Do you have a trick to flip the carriage around to do double cuts ?  For me I could get 12" wide boards.
Think like a farmer.

sigidi

Holmes, depends on how old your machine is, I do it this way on my own.

normal cutting until you are ready for the double cut, take the waste off the left side of log, undercut as per normal, when you come out of the log, idle down the engine and while the blade is slowing to stop, raise that end frame back to the previous layer (don't move the ruler or the indicator, just wind up until the indicator 'kisses' the top of the gauge) this should give enough clearance to bring the head back over the top end of the log at that end, and the blade will have stopped spinning by now, park the blade (horizontal) on top of the log face and leave the carriage brake unlocked, now lower the same endframe 200mm (8") this should give you enough room to spin the carriage around on the blade like a lazy susan, once turned through 180 deg, use the side shift winder to line the rollers back up on the rails, wind back up the 200mm and roll the carriage off the face of the log, then you can lower back to your original thickness and carry on. This way you only ever adjust one endframe and if anything messes up like the gauge slides or the indicator slides you still have the other end as a reference point to use.

If I have a tailer, we both step 'inside' the carriage, with the motor in the middle and back to back we lift the whole carriage up, rotate it through the 180 deg, then lower it back onto the rails, this is my preferred way as it's quick and also no measurements can get messed up.

Hope it helps
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

I like how you store your chains. I think if I did that though i'd have a giant knot though. Its hard to handle those buggers when you only have one real arm.

I'm exhausted after 3 days of driving 80+ miles each way, slabbing, and driving back.  Definitely going to sleep well tonight.


Here is a great photo of how not to slab (if you can help it).  It didnt want to sit right. The chain was just changed so nice and sharp. It wasnt too bad pushing it uphill. 



All done! The mill and 7k pounds worth of slabs and logs on the truck ready to head home.

I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

JustinW_NZ

What do you think about the slabber only option I see they do?
Not sure what its worth but is there any point going for that or just get a full setup and slabber attachement?

The reason I ask is there is a bit of larger stuff around and my woodmizer cant handle the big NZ wood that is out there BUT mostly it would just be slabbing OR knawing a large log into something i could then through onto the woodmizer if you get my drift?
I havent found it a big issue as yet, but thought now is a good time to ask :)

cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

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