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Lucas log holding

Started by sigidi, September 10, 2012, 06:56:07 AM

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sigidi

Log boy had asked about what I was using for log dogs/chocks whilst milling, I've ran out of time tonight but took some pics out at the mill today and will post it all tomorow night - Cheers ;)
Always willing to help - Allan

shelbycharger400

 :P
waitin to see what you guys are doin with the big slabbers.
I need to build one cause I cant afford to buy one.

logboy

You dont need much when slabbing. I usually flatten one side, the flip it over. Then add a couple screws in the bunk timbers (below cutting depth) to keep the log from getting pulled off to the right. I use those giant aggressive construction screws and a little impact driver. Only takes a few seconds.
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

sigidi

Basically, I just use a notch, but will throw the pics and a blurb up after slabbing today :D
Always willing to help - Allan

Meadows Miller

Gday

I just use the Log chocks 8 of them space them and lock them inplace then roll two logs in at a time I like them because you can adjust them to suit a log that dose not want to sit ;) I use to use and still do every now n then I  just cut a couple of beams and screw or nail a 4x1.5 or 2" blocks at about 4 to 6 inch spacing depending on log dia (countersink the heads and you wont hit them ;) I like hardwood for the blocks as it bites abit better and lasts longer without the shoulder wanting to round of  ;)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

sigidi

Ok, so I currently use two different methods of 'holding' logs while milling.

When I'm on a mobile job, I don't typically have Bob the cat with me, but I still need to get the logs up off the ground, so I use a pair of these...



I have screwed a 6x3 sideways on top of an 8x2, left a bit of 8x2 out the front so the taper can sit on it. Then made a 'notch' out of a pair of 3x1 1/2's, the first one having a taper cut on it to let the log roll up. Each bit has an important use. The tongue the taper sits on helps pin the support whilst rolling the logs up, the 'wings' on the side of the supports allow the tip of the iron bar to sit on them so the iron bar doesn't sink into the ground if you need to shunt over a heavy log and also if you want to roll the log to present it better for milling the tip of the iron bar sits on the wing while you can 'spin' the log with the cant hook, this way the log moves and not the supports. The 'notch' is made from 2 separate pieces of lumber which are screwed down (using very well countersunk screws) so they can be moved to accommodate a huge range of log sizes - having said this the piece of 3x1 1/2 on the right hand side has the screw holding it 'off centre' so I can easily make the notch say a 5" or a 7" notch just by rotating that left hand piece through 180 deg. This helps with easily accommodating most size logs without needing to unscrew the left hand piece and also one support can have a 5" notch and the other have a 7" notch to accommodate a big end of a log when/if needed. Once the log is rolled up and sitting in the notches nicely; to line up for cutting, I then line the blade up at one end, bring the saw back to the other end and using the iron bar driven into the dirt next to the log support can then easily shunt fairly big logs sideways to line them up at the other end. Having these small like this also means I can place them at the end of any length log while on mobile jobs (I like to place the log supports under the last 6" of the log and most mobile jobs have a wide variety of lengths, so I just move the log supports to suit the logs) When doin logs over 3m I also like to support the middle of the log, that's another reason the tapers are not attached - once the log is on the supports, I can use the two tapers in unison with each other to support the middle of long logs, so the middle doesn't 'drop' once you get down to the bottom third, and if the log has a heap of tension, then after each layer is removed a little tap on the tapers as you walk past to line up for the next layer brings them back under to support the log, but also depending on how much they go under the log, tells me if I need to shave the surface before cutting the next layer, so the timber stays one thickness through its entire length (that is if I haven't noticed it already from the sawmarks on the face ;))  An old pair of tapers comes in handy to carry on mobile jobs to chuck under the corner of the endframes to quickly and easily true up the mill on uneven ground.

Phew!!! That's for mobile jobs. I've used these with Lucas log chocks instead of the 3x1 1/2's and also used to go to the extremes of removing the left had piece altogether then rolling the log in hard against the right hand piece, then screwing the left hand piece down once I had 'knocked' it into the log a bit - logs stayed still well, but the time taken to remove the piece then screw it back down began to be painful (although I did this for almost 4 years) I also made up my own version of a Lucas/Peterson log chock/dog thing but with having to remove it each time and replace after each log wasn't as quick as the current setup.

(geese I hope my connection doesn't frag out while I type this novel... hmm maybe do it in two bits Al)
Always willing to help - Allan

sigidi

phew... connection held and I didn't lose all that info I just typed.....

Ok now for my 'yard' log holding. because I have bob the cat all the time at the 'yard' I use this kind of thing....



a pair of logs basically, around 8-10" diameter - these are a bit big, but hey.
I've started by taking the top off the length of the log, about a 6-7" face (doesn't really matter) then turned that face to the ground. I run the face off the log so when I move them around the yard, I can put them back and they will lie back flat each time. I could have done a pair of 10x6's or something similar, but I didn't want to waste time squaring up a whole cant. Then I put them in place in the mill similar to how the pic is and dropped the mill 2" from the bottom of the endframes - sliced a face off the top of the logs now. Then using the chainsaw made a notch in each support, I made one notch 2" wider than the other notch and this support is always for the butt end of the log, but only about 2" deep.

Now I load the 'skids' as I call them with the days logs and mainly by hand can just roll the logs in one at a time and they just 'drop' into the notches. Sometimes using the cant hook with the iron bar I 'spin' the log to orientate it the way I want it, but it just stays in the notch. If it's too fat for the notch, I just wedge a nice bit of offcut between the log and the skids. This tends to hold most the logs, sometimes you gotta 'tweak the log a bit so it 'sits' in both notches nicely, but normally I don't even idle down between logs on my own its about 10-12min between logs, or with the better half helping its less than 5 mins.

There are a few drawbacks with this as compared to my mobile ones, but I use them to cut down log handling time. If the log is too far off parallel compared to the rails then I undo a support leg on and endframe and just slide one endframe across to make the rails parallel to the log. Also I will lay them out for a bunch of similar sized logs, so I'll put them about 7' apart for cutting a bunch of 8' timber, then if I need to cut different length, I'll shift them to suit.



You can see from this pic, I've chucked a pair of 8x3 under one skid. I did this primarily so it lifted this end of all the logs, but it also has the added bonus of giving me flexibility with moving this skid. I've got a few nice fat juicy logs ideal for 10x2" step treads, but they are a little over 4' long, so I can slide this skid back along the 8x3 so it sits 1100mm from the other skid and I can chuck the step tread logs in when I get an order for treads. Also I can slide this skid right out so it is then 4m from the other skid and I can slice longer logs and still support them right at the end of the log.

Now some may be asking why when using a Lucas have I 'lifted' up one end of my logs, when I can just adjust the rails at each end to suit the log??? maybe ;D :o but because I work a lot on my own (DanG, I don't have a pic that shows it well :( anyway) I like to set my rails on an angle so the saw can run along the vertical cut under its own weight, then I can set the cut, tail out the previous board while the saw does part of the vertical cut on its own, I tried doing it the other way so the horizontal could be 'self cut' while I tailed, but that was messy as the saw is always goin away from you and if for some reason it cuts faster than you expect, you have to run twice as fast to catch it before it hits the track stops, doin the vertical means it is easier to get hold of it the cut goes quicker than you expect or you spend a bit longer stacking your timber etc.
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

I have five 6 x 6 pine timbers that I lug around everywhere. They get the logs high enough off the ground that I can get all the way through the bottom. They work fine until the log is almost gone. Then they fly off like a Frisbee.
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

Okrafarmer

Quote from: logboy on September 11, 2012, 11:55:20 PM
I have five 6 x 6 pine timbers that I lug around everywhere. They get the logs high enough off the ground that I can get all the way through the bottom. They work fine until the log is almost gone. Then they fly off like a Frisbee.

Right before that happens is when you're supposed to nail them to your support beams.  ;)
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

sigidi

Couple of pics I've taken in the past showing some nice recovery...





I try to make sure the bottom flitch doesnt take off, ya never know what you can get out of it;D

So log boy did any of that help out? make sense?
Always willing to help - Allan

logboy

It makes sense. I appreciate you taking the time to post it all.  How close to the bottom of the log can you get before it sags too much in the middle to get a board?
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

sigidi

It all depends mate. Longer logs sag earlier and more plus the bigger the section of timber you are taking off the more it will sag, but typically I have support under the middle half way through the deep vertical cuts in the middle of the log. I try to pre-empt things when milling rather than fix what has happened - this way you get more from the log and it takes less time
Always willing to help - Allan

Holmes

Sigidi  Thank you for posting all of that great information. I found it riveting  8) I just built a roof over my 613, and I need to get back to making lumber to restock what I used up to build the roof.  Very useful information...
Think like a farmer.

sigidi

No Problem mate, I thought it might be a bit lengthy and was a tad worried. also having siad that, it is just how I've found to do things so not "the only way to do things" by any means.

I'll try get the better half to do a little video when we out at the mill next, to show a bit of log handling and lining up.
Always willing to help - Allan

Guner Tautrim

i would love to see a little video of the self tailing while the mill is sawing vertically.  I work alone and this interests me greatly as you can imagine.  Thanks again. 
Gaviota the Greatland

sigidi

I'll see what I can do for ya Guner - had some filthy peice of crap steal some gear from my millsite, so things on hold til I get it replaced, but Lucas should have me up n running pretty soon
Always willing to help - Allan

CaseyK

found this old post and was wondering what people were using now for holding logs on the cutting decks for the swingers now days.
Home built automated twin blade

Dakota

Samo samo.  It's hard to come up with better ideas on holding logs than @sigidi has.
Dave Rinker

logboy

For the sake of updating the thread, I'll post the method I have switched to. Last fall I bought a couple of log holders from Mobile Dimension Sawmill. They are heavy steel and can hold two logs at a time. I bolted them to the concrete on a board that was thin enough that I cant accidentally cut into them.



This leaves me with a skin with another board or two in it, which I simply throw on top of the next log and clean up when I'm cutting. Its really nice to cut lumber without having to worry about the logs sliding all over the place.



I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

sigidi

I have my Lucas in a fairly static position nowadays, my log supports are different.... I'll get some pics later to show....

Thanks for the kind words re my style of supports - just what I slowly came up with over the time I was cutting....
Always willing to help - Allan

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