Dialing in the LT-40HD

[Okrafarmer]

Just to recap, I am starting this thread on the heals of the "Road Trip!" thread documenting the adventures I had obtaining this new used LT-40HD for my boss. In case someone in the future comes along and reads this thread from scratch, the background is that FF member Piney Woods saw that I was looking for an affordable LT-40, and he also noticed this one come up for sale on Craig's List near his home, so he told me.

My boss had a Turner manual mill previously, which I cut my teeth on for two years, and we were able to sell it. With that money and a little more scraped up, we were able to buy the LT-40HD for $7,500. It includes a sharpener and tooth setter. The mill is a 1990 model.

Currently I have not managed to start it because the key won't go back in the ignition. However, a new switch is on the way, and that may encourage me to go ahead and be rougher with this one in the mean time to see if I can get it to work.  ;)

Anyway, I haven't taken any pictures since getting back, but here's one from the trip to start you off with.


 

[Shotgun]

...on the heals of the "Road Trip!"

Pretty funny okra.  Was the pun intended?    ;D

Norm

[Magicman]

Yup, he is healing up from the eating and driving, and then driving and eating again. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Do you have a flat tire on your mill?  say_what

[Delawhere Jack]

Okra, if you're dieing to get started, you may be able to take the ignition switch off, take the "plug" (the part where the key goes in) out of the shell and remove the keying wafers and springs, then put it back together. Then any key or even a screwdriver would operate it. Those switches are nothing more than a desk drawer lock with contacts on the back.

[davch00]

All y'all rich boys talking about getting a new switch makes me laugh. I've have been around several small engines, a few tractors and even a truck or two that when the switch messed up got hotwired...redneck re-engineered.  ;D Its an option if you can't wait on parts to come in to start making some cuts.

[Chuck White]

Looks like you made a pretty good deal on the new (to you) Wood-Mizer!  8)

[customsawyer]

I don't know how you are trying to put the key in but on all of my WM mills the smooth side of the key went in on the bottom.  ;)

[Okrafarmer]

I got the key issue fixed, no problem. Now I've developed worse trouble. . . . . :-\

[Delawhere Jack]

I got the key issue fixed, no problem. Now I've developed worse trouble. . . . . :-\

Worst it could be would be a blown engine, throw on a new one and you've still got a good deal, LT40 under $10k......

[drobertson]

no offense intended, but it does sound like you like the road trips. All that being said, that sounds like a great deal.  good luck a good sawing,   

[Okrafarmer]

Well, Jack, it is the engine. We'll see how bad on Monday. It was running, but I had to keep fiddling with the choke. When I engaged it and put it into the log it went about eight inches or so and died. I backed it out again and tried to start it, and it cranked over and fired a few times but didn't want to go. We decided to check the spark plugs (me and one of the kids that helps us, and I broke off one of the spark plugs in the head. So, now we have to extract it, and if any procelain or anything else goes down in the cylinder, I guess the head will have to come off. Which means a new head gasket, at the very least. Meanwhile, we will do a compression test on the remaining cylinder (did get the spark plug out of there). The spark plug we got out whole looked black but not wet. Both were rusted into the hole pretty tight.

I don't know what all we will find, but a new engine would be $1800 or more, so anything short of that will be preferable. I hope it won't take too much to get it going, but pulling the head will almost certainly be necessary.

[Delawhere Jack]

Well, Jack, it is the engine. We'll see how bad on Monday. It was running, but I had to keep fiddling with the choke. When I engaged it and put it into the log it went about eight inches or so and died. I backed it out again and tried to start it, and it cranked over and fired a few times but didn't want to go. We decided to check the spark plugs (me and one of the kids that helps us, and I broke off one of the spark plugs in the head. So, now we have to extract it, and if any procelain or anything else goes down in the cylinder, I guess the head will have to come off. Which means a new head gasket, at the very least. Meanwhile, we will do a compression test on the remaining cylinder (did get the spark plug out of there). The spark plug we got out whole looked black but not wet. Both were rusted into the hole pretty tight.

I don't know what all we will find, but a new engine would be $1800 or more, so anything short of that will be preferable. I hope it won't take too much to get it going, but pulling the head will almost certainly be necessary.

Check the fuel tank quick disconnect. Mine did the same thing, it would idle fine, but under load it would cut out. Turns out plastic fitting for the disconnect had broken. It would draw fuel fine at idle, but under load the loose fitting would allow air in the line. Does yours have a see through fuel filter in the gas line? Is there air in the filter? I'll post a picture showing where the fuel fitting broke.

[Delawhere Jack]

Here is the old fitting. The pencil is pointing to wear it separated. I've epoxied it back together and I'll keep it as a spare. I was able to find a replacement made of aluminum at a marine supply store.



 

Hopefully that's all it is. I'd soak that plug in penetrating oil before you try to get it out.

[paul case]

If you need some parts I will give you my old engine, It quit me all at once and it probably needs the crankshaft module. I would send it to you if you pay the shipping.  I would say go back to LA and get Bodgers 30 hp Kohler. Look on the for sale board.

I did the upgrade to a Kohler 25 from WM on my new to me LT40. It uses about half the fuel of the old Onan and turns much stronger. Good luck and be patient, it takes time to get the kinks worked out. BTW your mill has more paint on it than mine :D   PC

[Delawhere Jack]

If you do need to pull the head it shouldn't be too bad, being a flathead engine.

[Okrafarmer]

Thanks guys. PC, I'll pm you. That's very thoughtful of you.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Okra, I have fuel filters in stock too.  ;D

[Delawhere Jack]

I've also noticed that the choke knob will tend to "pull itself" out to about 1/4 choke when milling, just from vibration I guess. Wouldn't hurt to put spring in there somewhere to keep it off.

Those Onan engines will run a LONG time with proper care.

[Okrafarmer]

If we get it back together and it has decent compression, we should be able to figure out the rest. POSTON, the guy just replaced the fuel filter.  ;)

[Buck]

Okra, I have been thru the exact same issues as Del Jack. All same lil tricks. That quick disconnect will make you tinker with stuff that doesn't need tinkering. Dang thing got heaved off into the wild blue. IF you ever have to break the muffler loose from the manifold get ready for lessons in languages you didnt think you knew. I just recently went on that adventure. Those bolts seize and break and then "it's" on.

[pineywoods]

I had the same problem with the fuel tank connection. Tinkered with it for a while, then threw it in the scrap pile and replaced it with a brass fitting and a hose clamp.

[paul case]

My gas tank quick disconect was already gone. It is real easy to fill with a 5 gallon bucket when you learn how to do it and with the mill being stationary I never take the tank off anyway.  8) 8) 8)  PC

[Magicman]

'Bout the only time that my tank has been removed was to replace that quick disconnect that I never use.  Age and the sun's UV killed it.  I still do not know why I did not do as Piney did.   :-\

[Delawhere Jack]

About that broken plug. Drown it in penetrating oil and give it time to soak in. Take a punch or a drift pin and a 10-12oz ball peen hammer and tap around on what's left of the plug. It might be helpful to heat the head with a propane torch as well before you try getting it out. You don't want to gall the threads on an aluminum head.

I learned a very valuable lesson from Mary Parsons when I picked up my mill............... Anti-sieze compound!!!!

[Okrafarmer]

Here is another picture. I took this one just before the "incident" occurred. Anyone know what species of log it is? The loader, clamp, and turner worked really well, btw.


 

[beenthere]

Okra
Did you have some Blue Creeper to put on that spark plug? May help to get the remaining part moving and out. Good luck.

[Okrafarmer]

Okra
Did you have some Blue Creeper to put on that spark plug? May help to get the remaining part moving and out. Good luck.

This is the first I've heard of this product. Must be good?

[Ga Mtn Man]

Okra,

Go to the LOGRITE website and look on the right side.

[WDH]

Water oak.

[Okrafarmer]

Water oak.

It's not such a good picture, I'll admit. You can't tell very easily. Water Oak it is not. In fact, oak it is not. That much I'm quite certain of. The person I got it from told me it was one thing, but then later I noticed something about it that suggested quite strongly that it was something else. However I figured I'd know for sure once I got it opened up. The jury is still out. I bought the logs back around January and anchor-sealed the ends. This one and the other one to match have been sitting around all that time. This one is about 20" on the small end, which is facing the picture. It is 9' long. I guess I could saw a cross-tie out of the middle, if I were so inclined. Maybe that's why they cut it that length, I'm not sure.

[WDH]

Then post a better picture  ;D.

[Okrafarmer]

I took the picture as a "look what's happening" shot, not a "tell me the species" shot. I fully expected when I took the picture that I would have a bunch of boards to look at by now, and could tell from the inside of the log what I was looking at.  :-\

[Buck]

That mill looks good!

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Good to see your home and dialing it in Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) with the issues they will seem small once you get it back upto scratch  ;) Might be a neadle and seat also new set of leads and It might even pay to pull the tank clean it out new lines and filters I would also get carb gaskets and I would give the carb a good clean Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8)

Regards Chris

[Okrafarmer]

Oh, this is an interesting picture. It is our Puerto Rican mechanic (nice funny guy, btw), taking the head off the engine. Right as he is doing that, you see the Fed Ex truck coming in the drive, carrying my new blades from WM! Also includes the open-topped lube tank.



 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

 

[Okrafarmer]

That's awfully quiet of you, POSTON!  :D

[Okrafarmer]

Anyway, our mechanic got the head off with no problem, and will take it tomorrow to a machinist who can get the spark plug out. The head gasket is in one piece, and if it looks like we have to order one, and it will take a while to get here, we will try putting the head back on, at least temporarily, with the old head gasket.

The view inside the top of the cylinder was promising, as both our mechanics saw no particular cause for concern in there.

When we put the new spark plugs in there, I guess we should use some sort of anti-seize compound.

[Delawhere Jack]

You should probably be ok with the old head gasket, if it separated cleanly from the head. The Onan's are low compression, 7:1 if I recall. They're basically like half of an old VW Beetle engine in design, and those things were pretty solid.

Did you get a chance to check out the gas disconnect fitting? I'd get a replacement fitting now. You could replace it with a 1/4" Male NPT x 5/16" barb fitting. It's a lot cheaper, but then you've refill the tank in place. If the fitting hasn't failed yet, it will, and probably soon. Probably worth picking up the $3 part now rather than lose milling time later.

[Okrafarmer]

It appears to me that the fitting has been replaced with a shop-born or shelf-recruited replacement; I couldn't find the part you showed on the fuel line. Once the engine is back together, we will check the fuel line, among other things, for problems.

I'm glad for the vote of confidence in reusing the head gasket. It looked fine when they took it off.

[Magicman]

I have reused the head gaskets on a similar Kohler generator engine.

[Full Circle]

My dad's '87 LT40 has the 20 hp Onan (if I'm remembering right), so I'm not sure this will apply to your engine.  But, like Meadows Miller said, I would go through the carburetor.  That engine doesn't like to sit for any length of time.  What I found in the last go around was that I had to split the carb, removing the top portion from the lower part.  This can can be done with it still mounted to the engine in my case.  There is a main/large jet that screws down in to the lower portion of the carb.  It is basically a hollow needle with small holes in the lower part, and it was essentially plugged.  Other than that, it's a great motor.  Good luck to you.   

[Okrafarmer]

Thanks, guys. I'm waiting at home right now for the mechanic guy to come jump start the truck (big diesel). My wife already left with the van. . . . I took the diesel home because the Yoda wasn't back from a firewood delivery. We had to jump start it to get it to go yesterday, but I figured it would hold a charge overnight. Nope. Not sure why.

[Chuck White]

Okra, I have been thru the exact same issues as Del Jack. All same lil tricks. That quick disconnect will make you tinker with stuff that doesn't need tinkering. Dang thing got heaved off into the wild blue. IF you ever have to break the muffler loose from the manifold get ready for lessons in languages you didnt think you knew. I just recently went on that adventure. Those bolts seize and break and then "it's" on.

Been there, done that!  >:(

Had to remove the muffler to have some brazing done to cover some holes.

Got three of them out, but one of them twisted off.

They were pretreated with penetrating oil for 3 days prior to taking them off.

Got lucky though, I drilled the threaded part of the bolt with a left-handed drill bit and it came right out.

When it went back together, all bolts were coated with silver anti-seize compound.

A friend is going to build me a new muffler over the winter.  ;D

[Tree Feller]

Water oak.

That was my thought, also. Now I'm interested to find out exactly what it is.

Okra, you are gonna have a fine mill when you get done dialing it in.

[Okrafarmer]

Our "senior mechanic" is currently trying to get the broken spark plug out. The "junior mechanic" broke off an extractor tool while trying to get it out, so it's sitting there in the middle of the steel outer ring of the spark plug.

If he can get it out without messing up the threads, great. If not, he said there is another way to fix it involving drilling the threads out of the head and replacing it with something. I forget what he called it. Some kind of coil? I don't know. He says that  he has had that done before and it is a lot cheaper than a new head. $260, I think they say the head is.

[Joanie]

Our "senior mechanic" is currently trying to get the broken spark plug out. The "junior mechanic" broke off an extractor tool while trying to get it out, so it's sitting there in the middle of the steel outer ring of the spark plug.

If he can get it out without messing up the threads, great. If not, he said there is another way to fix it involving drilling the threads out of the head and replacing it with something. I forget what he called it. Some kind of coil? I don't know. He says that  he has had that done before and it is a lot cheaper than a new head. $260, I think they say the head is.

A helicoil. they work great.

[Okrafarmer]

That's right, Joanie. I knew it sounded like something having to do with helicopters.  ;D

[JustinW_NZ]

if the "geter-outer" is stuck in there now tig weld a tang on it and then it will give you something to really lever on.
Otherwise yes - helicoils are awesome!

Been down this path a couple of times on rally cars :(

Cheers
Justin

[Okrafarmer]

Not sure if you could weld onto it safely. Might melt the aluminum?

[Delawhere Jack]

Aluminum can be tig welded. If the threads get stripped, I'd take it to a welding shop and see if they can tig the hole closed, then drill and re-tap it. I've had mixed results with helicoils. Of course it would be cheaper to try a helicoil first, then go the tig route if the coil doesn't hold.

[isawlogs]

You're not going to heat the aluminium by welding a stub on, unless you try real hard.  ;)

[JustinW_NZ]

Not sure if you could weld onto it safely. Might melt the aluminum?

Thats why I suggested using a TIG and an operator that can use one, should be fine as.

Cheers
Justin

[Delawhere Jack]

Not sure if you could weld onto it safely. Might melt the aluminum?

Thats why I suggested using a TIG and an operator that can use one, should be fine as.

Cheers
Justin

I was skipping ahead in my thoughts. You're suggested tig welding a lever on the remaining base of the spark plug for for leverage to remove it, I agree.

I was thinking of what to do if the head strips.

Sorry, hope I didn't add too much confusion...... :-\

[Okrafarmer]

There is currently a solid piece of steel though the spark plug thread ring, that broke off from the extractor. So you're saying we could TIG weld a handle onto that. Hmm. Might work.

Oops-- a text comes in just now. It says:

Got plug remains out threads damaged will take to have helicoiled for new plug in morning

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Now you're getting your ducks in a row. 

[Okrafarmer]

Now you're getting your ducks in a row. 

I hope so, cuz I'm running short on ammunition! 

[tjhammer]

okra it seems like you should take up PC on his offer of that spare eng
tj

[paul case]

Yeah,

If you have a spare everything then it hardly ever breaks down.  ;D ;D ;D ;D 8)



PC

[Okrafarmer]

Yes, Paul, if you can get it ready to send, I am still looking into shipping options. If I do it right, it shouldn't cost too much.

Is anyone on FF planning to go from or through Joplin MO, on way to St. Louis, Paducah, Knoxville, Georgia, Chicago, Traverse City, or other points east? And could carry a crated Onan engine in the back of your car truck?

[jcbrotz]

Yes, Paul, if you can get it ready to send, I am still looking into shipping options. If I do it right, it shouldn't cost too much.

Is anyone on FF planning to go from or through Joplin MO, on way to St. Louis, Paducah, Knoxville, Georgia, Chicago, Traverse City, or other points east? And could carry a crated Onan engine in the back of your car truck?

What you ain't hungry yet?? Nother roadtrip

[Okrafarmer]

Well, I have a friend who regularly goes to most of those places, and could pick it up from there. He is going to St. Louis in a week or two. He just doesn't have much reason to go over to Joplin.

[Okrafarmer]

Ok, so this morning our senior mechanic took the head to get it helicoiled. No problem, got it done. The guy found out what the original problem was, and why I broke the spark plug-- because somebody put the wrong size spark plugs in it!  My oh my. And really crammed them in there to get a good enough fit.  :(

So, they used a tap to chase out the threads on the other cylinder, installed the new plugs, and we were able to start the engine again. It runs! Err-- sort of. Still starving on fuel. We will check into the fitting tomorrow, as some have mentioned, but I don't really think that's the problem, because when I squeeze the priming bulb gas floods into the clear see-through filter very readily. The mechs think it is the fuel pump that's bad.
Here they are working on getting the head back on and the other spark plug in.


 

[Okrafarmer]

So, I did manage to saw a little wood.
8)
I finally managed (after some false starts) to get the first slab off, and I thought I knew what species the log was. Then the first board, and my suspicions were confirmed. I was sold these logs under the assumption they were one thing, when they were actually something else. Those blamed logs fooled me, but not only me, but the old venerable log dealer who sold them to me! (I am sure he never would have fooled me on purpose). I was looking at some breathtakingly beautiful             lumber. Wow!


  

 

[Okrafarmer]

What, no comments?  ??? I was waiting for the comments on the beautiful lumber, before moving on to the rest of the story.

[Migal]

  That sure is some perty Lumber Okra I was more wondering if you read the post on the fuel pump issue with a onan about two weeks ago we all commented on what was wrong starving for fuel ended up being the fuel pump so am interested in what you find no fret by the pics you will have a fine machine  8) to toy with 

[WDH]

Very hickorish or pecanish.  You remain coy with the pics  .

[Okrafarmer]

SWEETGUMMERY!

He told me it was maple, and like a dummy, I believed him. Seriously, the bark and the end grain color pattern did not look anything like the typical sweetgums we have around here. That sweetgum is a tricky character!

[Okrafarmer]

Anyhow, The compression of the engine blew the end off the muffler, and it also keeps stalling. Now the mechanics both say it sounds like the valves may not be quite right. SO.... now we are back to trouble again.

[thecfarm]

Okrafarmer,I'm sleeping at 11:47 pm.   :(  I'll comment on your 8:40am post ;D. Glad you got to saw with it. Lumber looks good. That's probably will be one species that will never see my mill.  :D

[isawlogs]

 Soory you are having issues with this mill, gotta ask, did you try this before buying  ???

  Compression or a backfire caused the muffler to go south ???
If it keeps stalling it could be the black wire going to the coil, if that wire grounds out like it did on mine, the motor will stall.  :P

[drobertson]

Okra, you might be on your guard for some metal objects in the future with this log.  Just saying, looks a bit minerally.   Pretty, but lots of stain.

[drobertson]

Standing corrected, again, did a search on sweetgum,  I want some of this. All the stuff back on Lake Murray was plain white, with no character at all.   Good find, still might watch for metal though.. david

[tjhammer]

I sawed some sweet gum last fall it keep the figure but after it dryed out a cat can't scratch it its really hard
tj

[Okrafarmer]

Standing corrected, again, did a search on sweetgum,  I want some of this. All the stuff back on Lake Murray was plain white, with no character at all.   Good find, still might watch for metal though.. david

Buddy, I can hook you up with some, for real and a half.  ;D

[Okrafarmer]

Ok, it's been a while since I posted in this thread, but we were anxiously awaiting some parts. We got the valves adjusted on the engine, replaced the manifold gaskets from taking them off, and finally got the right spark plugs. (Thank you, Rodney at Woodmizer!).

So today we finally had it running, and I have now milled around 450 bf of lumber on it. Including a 20' 17" loblolly that I made 2X6's out of for the little barn we're building. The engine runs great now. Made it 450 bf and haven't replaced the blade. Softer wood, of course....

The saw head does seem to be sagging a little, resulting in a cut that is not quite straight. I'm guessing this is the carriage bearings worn out? Guess I need to replace them too.  :-\

[JustinW_NZ]

do you have the manual for it?
You can adjust the head for sag and such its in there.

Email woodmizer and they should send you one (i got my manuals from them)

Cheers

[paul case]

If those rollers were out then the head wouldnt roll easily. Those bearings probably all have grease zerks on them too. There is adjustment bolts on the bottom track rollers to make the head run ''true''. that is 1/16'' high on the outside. PC

[Okrafarmer]

Sounds good. We'll check it out, and give the thing a thorough greasing by the book today.
Here are a few pictures, including the 20 ft. log, and the cant squared off, showing the tear-out in the end. That log Int'l'd at 257, but I got 280+ bf out of it, in spite of the tear-out.


  

  

 

[Okrafarmer]

So does anybody know the weight of that Onan engine, for shipping purposes? Trying to figure it out. . . . our guy heads up to St. Louis soon, so hoping it costs a lot less to ship to SL than to ship to here.

[sparks]

Roughly about 130 LBS

[sparks]

OOPS!! Sorry, looked at the wrong engine. More like 170 LBS.

[Okrafarmer]

Ah, cool, so with the crate, maybe 225 or 250 ish. Hmm. Thanks!

[Okrafarmer]

Well, I milled some more lumber. I got 550 bf or so on my first new WM Doublehard blade!  8) And I'll have you know, that 20' log was a bit dirty from all the bouncing and jostling around on the ground (well, I felled it right on a dirt pile to start with, and then the Robert cat couldn't pick it up, so I had to scoot it to the mill). I milled another 100 bf log and slabbed off another after the 20', so I was happy with the blade.
8)

We got more of the dialing in done. I thought the saw head was leaning (sagging) down a bit, but as it turns out, it was something I didn't realize about the side supports. This mill has four side supports. The outside pair are hydraulic and work together, the inside pair are manual and work independently. What I didn't realize is, the outer (hyd) pair are not at a 90° angle to the bed. In stead, they lean out a small amount (maybe 3-5° or so). I am guessing this is to allow for large logs to cheat over a bit toward the monorail to allow for more capacity. So, when I would flip my log over after the first cut, it was hard to make a 90° angle, which led me to believe my saw head was sagging. Some of my boards ended up with a parallelogram cross-section.

However, today, I learned that the inner pair of side supports, the manual ones, ARE at a 90° angle. Therefore, to put a good 90 on my second cut, I simply flip up the manual side supports, and now I'm all looking professional.
8) 8) 8)

I was talking to Magicman and asked him about that, and he said his mill (which is newer) has all 90° side supports, and he's never known of any that were like mine. Mine does not seem to have been obviously modified in any way. Here's a picture, although I'm not sure if you can see what I'm getting at very well.



 

As you can see, I don't have an edger yet.  ;D

We also adjusted the bottom rollers, greased most everything (we'd missed some things the first time), and adjusted the chain tension. Here our mech angel adjusts the chain. At first he didn't realize he had to keep it from twisting as he tightened it, but thankfully, I noticed it was twisted before trying to run it, and we got it right!



 

By the way, anyone who is not mechanically inclined (like myself, for instance) really ought to have a mech angel. We love ours! This has been his first experience working on a sawmill, though, so it has been a bit of a learning curve for him on the specifics. He was so impressed with the results of his work on the Onan, that he actually started helping me offbear! Outside his job description, but he saw me struggling with those 20' 2X6's, and more importantly, the flitches I had to edge some of them out of.  :-\ If you guys think I'm big, he could throw me over his shoulder like a tennis ball! (ok, I slightly exaggerate).  :

[Migal]

  Glad your sawing and have a mechanically inclined Man to get addicted too! I'm Learning why we like Pic's too! Nice post's.

[Chuck White]

Okra; Your two hydraulic logstops are out of adjustment, they are supposed to be 90° to the bed!

Glad to hear you got a little sawing done though!

[GDinMaine]

They could be out of alignment or may be worn out.  In my search I found this interesting video and watched it MANY times about a very high hour Woodmizer.  I don't know if the guy inn the video is a member here but he would fit right in.  According to the info on the video "This mill is a 1993 and has sawn over 3 million board feet of lumber." You guys may have seen it lots of times but it was new to me and I think it's great help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcHVxATFvlc

[YellowHammer]

Lay a couple of straight edges across the log bed rails and use a square to adjust all the backstops to 90 degrees.  There's an adjustment bolt on the leg of the backstop for that purpose.  Actually, I like to adjust mine just a hair inboard so that when I put the clamp on, they set back to 90 degrees.

Then tie them all together so they are all operated hydraulically.  The probable reason the hydraulic backstops are out of adjustment is that they saw all the heavy use and the manual ones only were used occasionally.  Make them all work for a living.

YH

[isawlogs]

 As said they are a little out of square, an adjustment is in need, I check mine at least once a year. Not a big job, but will reward you with square cants.  :P

[Okrafarmer]

Ok, I didn't realize they were adjustable.They seem nice and tight, not sloppy. I think I will leave the middle two manual, since they're not needed most of the time. Four up at once can cause certain difficulties  when trying to line up crooked logs (of which I mill many) but can also be beneficial under those circumstances too. I like having options.  ;D

[Meadows Miller]

I like having options.  ;D

OOHHHOOO Thems dangerous words for a Sawmillin Man Mate  ;) :D :D :D :D :D ;D 8)

[Delawhere Jack]

... when trying to line up crooked logs (of which I mill many)...

I feel your pain....... :-\

[Meadows Miller]

I dont know  ;) they are the ones that make it intresting as it takes skill to get usefull timber out of them  ;) ;D ;D try pulling grade timber out of the good side of 5 to 6 million bft of a Pallet Grade Windrow/Break logs over a couple of years  ;)

I do pitty the poor bugger who gets to sit in an aircon cab all day watching 6 to 8 strait logs a min dissaper through the infeed a Hewsaw or ChipNsaw Line waiting for things to jam up  :'(  ;)

[Chuck White]

We also adjusted the bottom rollers, greased most everything (we'd missed some things the first time), and adjusted the chain tension. Here our mech angel adjusts the chain. At first he didn't realize he had to keep it from twisting as he tightened it, but thankfully, I noticed it was twisted before trying to run it, and we got it right!



 

Okra; Just a suggestion!

I think it's written in the sawmill tips thread here!

When you get done adjusting the drive chain and you have that long piece of all-thread hanging out past the end of the mill, slide a short piece of garden hose or heater hose over it and put a hose clamp on it to keep it in place.

It'll keep you from ripping your pants, or worse, your skin on it.  ;)

[Delawhere Jack]

They could be out of alignment or may be worn out.  In my search I found this interesting video and watched it MANY times about a very high hour Woodmizer.  I don't know if the guy inn the video is a member here but he would fit right in.  According to the info on the video "This mill is a 1993 and has sawn over 3 million board feet of lumber." You guys may have seen it lots of times but it was new to me and I think it's great help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcHVxATFvlc

Thanks, that was a very instructive video.

[Okrafarmer]

Yes, very good video. Thanks.
8) 8)