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Circular Sawmill

Started by HPPDRoss, August 19, 2012, 04:44:59 PM

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HPPDRoss

Hey Guys, Im new on here and needed some help/advice on an old circular sawmill.  I saw an add on craigslist about an old mill for sale several miles away from my home at a tractor shop.  I stopped by and began talking with the seller.  Come to find out, the mill belonged to my great grandmothers brother.  When I learned of this, I had to have it.  The only information I located was on the 16ft headblock.  It is stamped with (Liddell Co. Charlotte NC).  All and all, the mill is in decent shape but was considering replacing the wood with steel.  I am also having a little trouble figuring the best way to construct the track section since the track part of the mill was dissasembled.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

lyle niemi

welcome to the site, if you can post some pics

HPPDRoss

I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.  any thoughts on rebuilding the husk frame. I was considering replacing the wood with 8" wide I-beam.  If I just replaced the wood, what kind should be used?

lyle niemi

Quote from: HPPDRoss on August 19, 2012, 05:23:35 PM
I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.  any thoughts on rebuilding the husk frame. I was considering replacing the wood with 8" wide I-beam.  If I just replaced the wood, what kind should be used?
Im not sure what the best wood be to use but if your gonna rebuild I would suggest useing steel.

Ron Wenrich

There are several ways to attach track to I beams.  Most weld onto it, and that works well as long as you're a decent welder, and you don't draw the track off line.  You can also do it in sections, but these get pretty heavy to move around.  Most put the steel down first, then put the track on top of it.

If you are going to rewood the sections, I've seen Doug fir work out pretty well.  You might be able to find some that is quarter sawn, which would be more stable.  That works very well for the husk. 

You can also use steel for the carriage.  But, you don't necessarily want to weld the headblocks to the carriage.  The old Frick mills were designed so that you could move the headblocks on the carriage.  If you wood the carriage, you want a hard pine like the southern yellows.  Doug fir also works well.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

sealark37

Welcome to the forum.  You have come to the right place.  Post pictures with your progress and problems.  You will get the benefit of many years experience.  The members can point you in the right direction, no matter how deep you have gotten yourself.  Let us know where you are located in NC.  Regards, Clark

thecfarm

HPPDRoss,welcome to the forum. Ever been around a mill before? Good luck to you. Build a roof over it once you are all done and you will all set than.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Okrafarmer

Do you know if it is a Frick mill? It should say somewhere if it is. Or is Liddell the brand name of the mill?

There are a lot of old Frick mills around the Carolinas.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

HPPDRoss

I was told that the original husk was replaced by the high school ag shop many years ago so the nameplate is missing. It looks like a frick to me other than the liddell carriage. Every moving part on the mill is free and appears to opperate like it should. Im located in upstate sc Anderson Co

Okrafarmer

Ah, I work out of Easley, not too far away. We have a Frick we're trying to sell, too, but it sounds like you need that one since it was in your family.  :)
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

HPPDRoss

Your not far away at all okrafarmer, I actually live in Honea Path.  Im just trying to decide the best was to rebuild the husk frame and find out the best way to build the foundation so the mill will stay level and run true.

Okrafarmer

It isn't super easy from what I understand.  :-\
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

steamsawyer

Welcome aboard Ross.

I always like hearing about the resurection of an old circulat sawmill. It's not every day that you get to restore a family heirloom  8)

A lot depends on what you want to accomplish. If you want to rebuild it historically I would use wood, but if you are looking for strength and indurance, you may want to use steel. ;D

My mill is a J.A. Vance, made in Winston Salem NC. I am guessing about 30s or 40s vintage. The track stringers are PT pine laid on RR cross ties and the rails are 1 1/4" angle iron. All my stuff is old and I do everything the old fashion way.  ::)

Check out my photo gallery and my you tube videos... Nothing special, but you can see how things are constructed and how things operate.

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

HPPDRoss

Thanks Alan, those pics and youtube videos helped me out alot. What is the distance between the 4x4 track and your sawblade?

steamsawyer

I can't remember right off. I'll measure it this afternoon. That demention will depend on how high the carrage is when you replace the wood. I think the wood in my carrsge is six inches, the bunks for the headblocks is four inch channel and the wheels and mounts make up about eight inches. I am guessing that would make it about 18" from the rail to the top of the saw blade collars. Let me get you some close up pix and dementions.

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

HPPDRoss

 

  

  

  

 
I finally got some pics on here thanks to my wife.  The carriage is in good shape, everything moves smoothly like it should and the wood is in good shape.  The wood where the madrel sits looks to be sagging a little.  The winch drum has got me a little confused on how to connect it to the track.  Liddell Co is stamped on the headblock

Ron Wenrich

I would just replace the wood that is split on the husk.  When I put in an old handmill, I put the cable drum under the track. 

Here's a blurb I found about Liddell:

"In the early 1870s, Walter James Forbes Liddell was working in Madison and Milwaukee, Wisc., in the rail-car-building industry. In 1875, Liddell and his wife, Anna, moved from Milwaukee to Charlotte, NC. There Liddell founded Liddell Machine Co., with manufactory Charlotte Iron Works. Based on patent records, it appears that Liddell made boilers, furnaces, steam engines, hay presses, and cotton presses. By 1881 the company was also making circular sawmills. By 1889 Walter J. F. Liddell's son, Walter Scott Liddell, was running the works and Liddell & Co. and it seems that the father was no longer active. The business remained active until at least 1936."
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

HPPDRoss

Thanks Ron, thats probobly what i am going to do.  Southern yellow pine or douglas fir right.

whiskers

welcome, this will come in handy rebuilding and operating your mill.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf.
many irons in the fire.........

HPPDRoss

Thanks Whiskers, that looks like alot of good material.

dblair

 

  welcome to the forum , looking at your pics they look like my mill . I guess they look a lot alike looking at the husk . I posted another pic of the drum bolt to the track frame

 
old Appomattox Iron Works circle mill.

HPPDRoss

Your mill does look very similar to mine.  If you could send me some more pics of it, I would greatly appreciate it.  Especially the drum and cable.  The pulleys on each end of my mill are positioned vertical instead of horizontal.  Has anyone seen this configuration before? What type of powerplant do you use jblair?

dblair

 

  

  

  

  I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them , it will be in the drum area . I use a minnie moline 403 power unit with about a 10 inch flat belt pulley running to a 23 inch on the mandrel . mine is just a syp husk , I think , i t's about 85 years old so for me it's hard to tell what kind of wood it is. this is a gasoline model and the manifold is great .
old Appomattox Iron Works circle mill.

HPPDRoss

Thanks for the pics, looks like you have a very nice setup. I am considering using white oak to rebuild the husk. Is this a good idea?

Steamenginesmitty

A little history and background:

http://docsouth.unc.edu/nc/liddell/liddell.html

A steam engine by Liddell:

http://southeastantiquemachinerysociety.webs.com/aboutus.htm

I looked through my Frick catalog from 1907 and I couldn't find the wood type used, but many of the steam era items were ash but any well seasoned or kiln dried hardwood should do.  A lot of the wooden wheels on steam engines were ash.

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