Battle of the bandmills

drobertson · August 17, 2012, 04:48:24 PM

I need to ask for a bit of forgiveness, I did not mean that WMZ is the best, but I feel like it is for me. I have the single blade edger and for the most part, do not use it. When I cut out ties, and roll the logs, most of the flitches are the same size. I edge on the mill and the log is done. For the most part whether it is one inch or two inch, the drop to take off the bark is pretty typical. and the ease of the taperd mill frame allows me to pull the boards without too much strain. I am backwards, at least a few ole timers have said, but my custormers are happy and I am too. I have seen some pretty good Bakers running, and was impressed. The Logmaster was a brute, but really suited for a two man operation. I appreiciate an offbearer, and really make ground, but this is not always feasible. The decision on which mill to run is really determined by the end goal. The WMZ LT-40 super just makes my operation what it is, a humble mill with a quality product in a timely time frame. Easy to clean, maintain, and move when required. I love sawmilling! but that said, I love to cut steel too! Maybe WMZ could build some milling machines and lathes for us die hard tool makers. lol They could call them metal muchers. I don't know just rambling now.

Delawhere Jack · August 17, 2012, 05:34:31 PM

Quote from: Okrafarmer on August 16, 2012, 01:28:04 AM
For me one of the most important features is the frame rigidity. This is because I hate having to constantly tweak the adjusters to straighten it out. I had that problem on the Turner, and my cousin had it on his Thomas.

That is one of the few complaints I have with my Turner. The feet slip sometimes when you're moving a big log around on it, or if somebody bumps it with a skidsteer. It looks like he puts screw type trailer jacks on them now. I would do the same if I was keeping the mill.

redbeard · August 18, 2012, 01:57:56 AM

One thing to consider on wanting a wider throat is when milling the max. Width your blades have to be sharp with lots of set. The further your guides are apart, blade control can be a issue especially knots.

hackberry jake · August 18, 2012, 04:08:23 AM

If I remember correctly, didn't ez boardwalk have the highest quality lumber as far as dimensions with the fewest boards that got rejected in the shoot out? I think we all know who makes the best mill (insert picture of something blue for poston) 8)

sdunston · August 18, 2012, 07:46:22 AM

One sure thing,They all saw,Some just have a few more options..............just saying.

Okrafarmer · August 18, 2012, 09:20:43 AM

Quote from: sdunston on August 18, 2012, 07:46:22 AM
One sure thing,They all saw,Some just have a few more options..............just saying.

And let's not forget the operator factor. . . . .

Ducking. . . . .

Hilltop366 · August 18, 2012, 04:57:12 PM

Quote from: hackberry jake on August 18, 2012, 04:08:23 AM
If I remember correctly, didn't ez boardwalk have the highest quality lumber as far as dimensions with the fewest boards that got rejected in the shoot out? I think we all know who makes the best mill (insert picture of something blue for poston) 8)

How about a Blueberry (that is a quarter under it)

POSTON WIDEHEAD · August 18, 2012, 05:10:43 PM

Thanks HILLTOP.....I love BLUEBERRIES!

hackberry jake · August 18, 2012, 09:13:51 PM

Poston, do you love blueberries more than oranges? ;D

POSTON WIDEHEAD · August 18, 2012, 09:29:10 PM

Quote from: hackberry jake on August 18, 2012, 09:13:51 PM
Poston, do you love blueberries more than oranges? ;D

No, I love Oranges better.......but to comment on Hilltop's picture, when I first looked at it, I thought it was an antique door knob. :D :D :D :D :D

Dan_Shade · August 18, 2012, 09:42:21 PM

What is your production expectation?

Is the mill for hobby, for a business, are you going to do portable work?

ladylake · August 18, 2012, 10:36:30 PM

There are a lot of high quality good cutting mills out there. HP at least 35hp gas or 30 hp diesel(if your going to saw a LOT get the diesel) for a 1-1/4 band, guides I like 3" (turn slower) with a flange on the back set 3/16 behind the blade, toe boards are a must, chain turner is a must, claw turners work but not near as good as a chain turner. For good production computer setworks is a must. Clamp, go hydraulic, my screw type works OK but doesn't have a lot of power and is not the fastest, the hydraulic clamps are way better.. And most important go watch some mills cut for at least a half day. Steve

JVK · August 18, 2012, 11:23:31 PM

If you're going to build the ultimate mill, I would measure the distance between the guide rollers at full open of an LT40 and make yours a bit wider. That is the only complaint I have of my new LT50. The logs I have are just a little to big and I have to spend a lot of time carving to get that outside roller to clear. 3" would be huge!

Dan_Shade · August 18, 2012, 11:27:32 PM

JVK, do you know the trick of laying down the backstops and scooting the dog left to give you more room on the right side of the mill?

JVK · August 18, 2012, 11:39:56 PM

Hey Dan, I learned that very trick right here on the ff. It's a good one. I cut mainly Red Cedar and they are a bit flairy toward the butt.

Okrafarmer · August 18, 2012, 11:58:01 PM

That must be some honking big red cedar.

dboyt · August 20, 2012, 12:58:31 PM

Quote from: JVK on August 18, 2012, 11:23:31 PM
If you're going to build the ultimate mill, I would measure the distance between the guide rollers at full open of an LT40 and make yours a bit wider. That is the only complaint I have of my new LT50. The logs I have are just a little to big and I have to spend a lot of time carving to get that outside roller to clear. 3" would be huge!

If you're like me, adding 3" to the throat just means you'll be bringing in bigger logs that still won't fit. I've pulled the ceramic guides off my Norwood mill a few times to get just a few more inches. Big saw with a long bar will take care out of those flaired butts (well the ones on the logs, anyway).

wormy · August 20, 2012, 02:59:02 PM

i have an older modle lt 40 and the only real thing i would change on it would be the log turner. it has the claw type turner that sometimes lifts the log over the stops. i ran a cooks mill with the chain turner and liked it much better.but dont get me wrong i wouldnt trade mills i think the wm is the best all around built saw and i looked at many saws when i was in the market.

Hilltop366 · August 22, 2012, 12:42:09 PM

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on August 18, 2012, 05:10:43 PM
Thanks HILLTOP.....I love BLUEBERRIES!

Your welcome.

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on August 18, 2012, 09:29:10 PM
Quote from: hackberry jake on August 18, 2012, 09:13:51 PM
Poston, do you love blueberries more than oranges? ;D

No, I love Oranges better.......but to comment on Hilltop's picture, when I first looked at it, I thought it was an antique door knob. :D :D :D :D :D

It is a cultivated high bush blueberry that was grown in the lot next to me.

I tell people that we grow the blueberries so big that you have to spit out the seeds.

Hilltop366 · August 22, 2012, 12:50:08 PM

Sorry to get off track thehardway, but I did want you to thank you for starting this thread, I am always looking for mill build ideas myself and am trying to soak up all the info and ideas from the forum in the meantime.

What I have noticed is that a lot of the complaints and breakdowns once a mill is cutting straight is about electrical issues with controls and accessories.

Hilltop

drobertson · August 22, 2012, 03:10:56 PM

I have never had the chance to run one of wmz's newer chain rolling log rollers. And to say the claw is my best friend, I think everyone that has one has done their share of mumbling. the trick is to use the clamp, with the claw, and make sure the weight of the log is balanced on the bed. This makes a big difference. this is why the double pump is critical. The speed could be quicker, but they are quick enough to get the log rolled. I just like WMZ it is low, managable, and very smooth and accurate.