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Air chamber e 2300

Started by stratford 50, August 06, 2012, 12:00:46 PM

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stratford 50

In the back of the firebox on the e-2300 models between the two extra holes that we were advised to drill I added a third hole to ease cleanout of the rear air holes . The hole I drilled is 3.5 inches in diameter and will allow the use of a shop-vac to clean both sides of the rear chamber. Don't fool yourself, this area was quite full with ash and creosote. I had to use a large screw driver to dislodge the material in this area. To cover the hole I purchased a plate & gasket from my local plumbing contractor, this plate has a piece of angle iron with a threaded stud which goes into the air chamber, place the round plate on the stud and tighten and your done. I have blocked all rear holes for two winters and found my furnace to run fine with the only air coming from the side air holes. If the rear chamber continues to fill up with ash at some point this will block the air going to the side air channel. At some point I will try to add photos or if you like give me a call 603-922-3473 Thanks Paul

doctorb

stratford 50

Interesting idea.  I agree that the air chamber in the back can get a lot of ash and creosote.  I have a special "grabber" device to pulverize the chunks and then use the shop vac for removal.  You are correect, if the airflow through this chamber is blocked, then flow to the side air holes will not occur.  I was trying to find better access to this part of th air chamber fromthe back, but it does not appear feasible to me.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

stratford 50

The pictures for the air chamber are in the photo gallery, I tried to attach them to my post but no luck. There should be two pictures which should answer any questions as to how I clean out the rear air chamber

Logging logginglogging

can you post a link to the pictures...I cant find them anywhere.

thecfarm

stratford,you did the hard part. Here they are.



 



 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Logging logginglogging

Ill probally do the same thing.... What did u use for a "Gasket" that wouldent burn or melt? It looks *DanG good. Also what are the two carrage bolts on the sides for? Are those to intentionally plug those holes?

stratford 50

The gasket came wit the plate I purchased, it is used in a newmac wood furnace according to my local plumbing contractor. The bolts are to plug the holes that CB advised us to drill. My furnace has run for two years with only air from the side holes and has performed well.

stratford 50

I've been burning the e-classic for two weeks now and did a cleaning today. The gasket and plate are still in tact with no apparent issues. The only air I get in the fire box is along the sides and the burn is the same when it was purchased new. If I see any down sides to this modification I will post, but as of today looks good.

MudBud

Perfect timing for some help.  My E2300 is 4 years old with no real issues.  Today while doing the full cleaning for the year I find out my whole left bank of airholes has no air coming out of them.  The holes are open and cant see anything behind them.  I even vacuumed them to no avail. I then pulled off the tubes in the back and pushed air through with the vacuum.  the right side and back two holes  are wide open.  Left side still no air at all.

Any ways you know how to unblock that bank of holes?  I will say that the two back holes were plugged probably all winter.  They are wide open now.

Also, while cleaning I found a bolt while vacuuming out in the turbulator chambers.  I did find that it goes to the lower area of the damper plate. So the question.....how do I get another one in there.  I can reach with one hand through the stack and touch it, but see no real way to get a nut on it or use tools to tighten it....thoughts?

Thanks, Keith

doctorb

I use a heavy wire, like a beefed up coat hanger, to connect the chamber between the holes and aroundf the corner to the back chamber.  It's a dirty job.  I recall somebody here who used the twist cable from a weed wacker to get in there and keep the build up from blocking air flow.  Sort of like a snake for a drain. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

MudBud

Thanks Doctorb, I will try that next weekend when I let the stove die down. More than likely its in the back left hand corner.

stratford 50

After drilling the 3.5 inch hole I had to use a large screw driver to dislodge big chunks of creosote in the left side of the chamber. I had spent hours of cleaning with a coat hanger and shop vac thinking that area was clean, it was plugged solid. My furnace is also 4 years old. I was not comfortable drilling that hole, nothing ventured nothing gained. At this point I'm happy with the new cleanout plate.

doctorb

Mudbud-

Been thinking why I have not had this issue and others do.  The only conclusion I can reach is that the larger, drilled air holes provide me access to that corner pretty well.  While I don't have pictures of my firebox, I can tell you that the new holes are larger in diameter than the originals, and the one on the side wall is located fairly close to the corner of the firebox.

When I am refueling the stove, and it's coal bed is pretty low, I burn with the door open and the door switched closed, so the fans are on.  You can easily see where the air comes out of the air holes and generates the bright coals right near the openings.  If the coals are getting hot in some areas and not in others, then you have work to do.  I have a long metal rod with a bend at the end to open any air hole, especially the ones at the rear of the firebox, while this is taking place.  Once the coals near the hole start glowing, the fire takes care of the rest.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

stumper

Same here.  I have never used a wire to clean that area.  I have only once cleaned some of the creosote out from the blower side and then it was only 20 percent blocked. 

A hot fire, door switch over ridden, and cleaning with my baby hoe and/a pointed fire poker, seems to work.  A propane torch did well but I had issues being able to hold it in place for any length of time before my hand and arm over heated.  Generally, I can see the progress pretty well.  Scraped off the side, poke the hole, then the heat and the fan will cause the creosote to ooze out the hole,  eventually the oozing stops and the hole is open.  Sometimes I can even get the ceosote to burn in th chamber.  I like seeing the flames come out those holes as I then know it is cleaning itself out. 

By the way I have discovered a way of cleaning the creosote build up in general.  In putting my boiler to bed for the summer I cleaner everthing and then spray things down with a mixture of engine oild and K-1, so the metal is coated and no rust can form (old rust proofing trick).  This year I had some left over and need the sprayer.  so being cheap I decided to just spray a little into the boiler after loading the wood.  What I found is that by spraying the walls the mixture burns quickly and lights and loosens the creosote.  Next time I did this before loading the wood, but after my quick scraping, worked well and loosened things so another quick scraping cleaned most of the rest off.  I think I will do this as part of my spring cleaning.

MudBud

Thanks Doctor and Stumper!  I have had no issues for the past 3 years with the air holes.  However to save myself 150 gallons of oil over the summer I decided to run the stove.  It takes a lot of extra work during the summer as the only thing I need for is the super store water tank.  The holes are clean and nothing behind them.  One thing I never did was drill the two holes on the side chamber, I did the back 2 holes.  I have tried a blow torch in the holes to heat up that area, but no avail.  I will use a dremel flexible extension with a drill type tip through one hole to see what I can do. 
I also do the same with the door open and switch bypassed to see the holes blow the air out and watch the coals light up.  I use a poker for all the holes as well. 

Now, any ideas on how to get the bolt in the bypass flapper door and then being able to tighten it?  The bottom bolt is missing and I don't trust leaving it like that for the winter.  Murphys law I can see coming mid January!

doctorb

I think that drilling the side chamber holes would help this problem.  They are positioned a little lower than the original holes, and the diameter is a little larger, allowing drainage of anything in that corner and access to anything that doesn't drain.  The slow burn of summer,with more down time and less burn time, coupled with the lack of access to that area probably combined to block that chamber.  I'd drill those holes.

With respect to the damper, can you see where the bolt is missing?  As I recall CB had an upgrade to the damper lever system a few years back.  My dealer did that maintenance / upgrade for me.  I, too, later found a metal clip when I was cleaning the tubes.  Turns out it fell down during that upgrade and was no longer necessary. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

stumper

If I lost the bolt and were unable to replace it I would close the damper and leave it closed for the remainder of the heating season.  Accordingly, I suggest exploring the upgrade and discussing the bolt replacement with CB.  If that fails close the damper and run it for the winter.  When I spoke with CB corporate about my damper sticking, the person I spoke with said the he had a sticking issue and solved it by not opening his damper at all. 

superwd6

I just looked at a Wood Doctor gassifier full of holes. After completely cleaning Eclassic and seeing no corrosion from Ashtrol use I put a scoop of it in primary 90 @ rear and turned on the fan. Now all interior air chamber has a little in it. Can only help and I think each cleaning time will be a repeat.

Logging logginglogging

Putting some in the primary valve like that sounds like a pretty good idea.

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: stratford 50 on August 06, 2012, 12:00:46 PM
In the back of the firebox on the e-2300 models between the two extra holes that we were advised to drill I added a third hole to ease cleanout of the rear air holes . The hole I drilled is 3.5 inches in diameter and will allow the use of a shop-vac to clean both sides of the rear chamber. Don't fool yourself, this area was quite full with ash and creosote. I had to use a large screw driver to dislodge the material in this area. To cover the hole I purchased a plate & gasket from my local plumbing contractor, this plate has a piece of angle iron with a threaded stud which goes into the air chamber, place the round plate on the stud and tighten and your done. I have blocked all rear holes for two winters and found my furnace to run fine with the only air coming from the side air holes. If the rear chamber continues to fill up with ash at some point this will block the air going to the side air channel. At some point I will try to add photos or if you like give me a call 603-922-3473 Thanks Paul

What depth arbor did you use? I am finally getting around to doing this but i am afraid to drill into my watter jacket.

stratford 50

I used a hole saw with a 1/4 inch bit that protruded about 1/2 inch beyond the whole saw. There is plenty of room in the air chamber, maybe 4 plus inches before you hit the water jacket, no need to go that far. The pictures posted above show some of the space that is behind this plate. Hope this helps, Stratford 50

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