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Table saw cut angle adjustment problem

Started by kelLOGg, July 22, 2012, 07:31:21 PM

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kelLOGg

My 80s vintage Craftsman table saw has wear in the blade angle adjustment which prevents it from holding it stable. The wear is in the pivoting ball joint; it will move about 1/8" and translates to a few degrees off the set angle. I have attempted to place conical inserts made from aluminum flashing between the ball and socket to take up the play but they don't last very long. Any source for replacements? I don't know the part no. of the saw so I haven't had success with Sears parts. I am considering making my own from ACME rod and a threaded ball and matching socket. Where can I get that? Thanks,

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

tyb525

Do you have a picture of the saw and/or the parts you need? I have 2 80's craftsmen table saws, one I use and one I gutted and turned into a router table. I still have all the parts. Maybe they are the same? If so I would give them to you cause they're just causing more clutter here.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

kelLOGg

Wow, tyb, that is a kind and generous offer. I would be glad to pay at least for shipping and handling. :)
Bob

The saw was given to me with no motor a decade ago. It was being disposed of by NCSU because it had no safety features on it. I have no info on it.


 

The ACME rod is 1/2" dia, 10 tpi and the ball is about 1" dia. You can see some mangled aluminum parts I tried to used to fill the gap between the worn ball and socket. Its the ball and socket assembly I need but the ball looks like it is a press fit on the shaft/ACME rod so the rod should come with it too.



 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

DouginUtah


I'd pay $20 for one of those extensions.  8)
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

Al_Smith

It might be a thing if you did a Google search you might find the parts . Also it might be that McMaster -Carr might have something you could adapt .They have a lot of stuff .

You could drill out a steel ball but the only way I know how to hit dead center would be to use a lathe .It couldn't be a real hard ball either like out of a big bearing else you'd never get a hole in it .

kelLOGg

Actually, Al, I am thinking along the same lines. Drilling thru a ball would be tough so I drilled a 1/2" hole thru the diameter of a 3/4" shaft. The shaft is held captive in a cage but can still rotate about its axis. I will pass a 1/2" ACME rod thru the hole and fix it into position with nuts so it can rotate but can't slide in the hole. Attach this assembly to the side of the table saw and screw the ACME rod into the saw mechanism. It will have some play but not nearly what I have now. We'll see.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Al_Smith

If you try to drill out a ball in a lathe the easiest way I've found is to spot face a flat first using an end mill in a drill chuck .

Step drill it ,little bit ,bigger bit etc .

kelLOGg

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Al_Smith

You could probabley do it in a drill press clamping the ball between two v blocks .Problem once again is hitting dead center on the ball .

Cypressstump

Beings I have built from scratch stuff before, the only thing handy that I would have availability to concerning a 'ball' with hole in it, would be a ball out of the guts of a ball valve.
I am not sure what the OD of a 1/2" ball valve ported ball would be, but will find out if that would help. The ID is .50, not sure yet of the OD if that matters. Does the ID need to be threaded?

Tha Apllo brand brass ball valves have easily acessable round ported balls made of chrome plated brass, smooth bores.

stump
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

Cypressstump

Quote from: Al_Smith on July 24, 2012, 05:00:20 AM
You could probabley do it in a drill press clamping the ball between two v blocks .Problem once again is hitting dead center on the ball .

You may be able to chuck the ball with a fender washer w/ sides cut square, to enble the washer to also chuck while resting on top of the ball. A fender washer with a small id hole may work.

Brass Balls anyone ? ?   found this - http://www.mcmaster.com/#red-metal-balls/=ijq3xe

Two types of brass balls that could be drilled and threaded easier that Steel.
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

tyb525

Before you do anything crazy ;D that looks like my parts saw, I will go check this evening to see if I have that part
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Cypressstump

Quote from: tyb525 on July 24, 2012, 04:42:46 PM
Before you do anything crazy ;D that looks like my parts saw, I will go check this evening to see if I have that part


That would be Way TOO easy wooden' it.......... :)
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

kelLOGg

I like easy when its easy :D I really don't want to make it more of a project than it has to be. Thanks for checking tyb.

The ball valve guts sounds clever. The hole has to be 0.50 and NOT threaded so it would be ideal if dia is right. If tyb's part does not fit I will check out a 1/2" valve.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

tyb525

Sadly I can't find that part, I knew I had it at one time.

Quote from: DouginUtah on July 23, 2012, 10:56:20 AM

I'd pay $20 for one of those extensions. 

Doug how wide (deep) is your tablesaw top? I do have one of those extensions
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

DouginUtah


Ty,

It is 27" x 10". 

Just like the ones in kelLOGg's picture?

Shipping is a problem though...but we might be able to make arrangements. Unfortunately, I won't be able to make it to the pig roast this year.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

Al_Smith

I'm not exactly certain of the function of the ball joint .However if you do a search on McMaster -Carrs' web site and type in 1071K16 that is a 1/2" bore ball joint  swivel bearing .It it might be the hot ticket .

The 1/2" rod would be around 15-18 bucks ,plain steel nuts about 2.50 per .

kelLOGg

Quote from: tyb525 on July 24, 2012, 06:31:51 PM
Sadly I can't find that part, I knew I had it at one time.

Bummer, but thanks for checking.  At least othe options have surfaced in this thread.

Quote from: Al_Smith on July 24, 2012, 07:00:57 PM
if you do a search on McMaster -Carrs' web site and type in 1071K16 that is a 1/2" bore ball joint  swivel bearing .It it might be the hot ticket .

Al, you're onto something here. I like that. Another option is a pillow block bearing but it may not swivel easy enough but is ready-to-mount. Which to you think is better?

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Al_Smith

Well to tell the truth I don't know because I have no idea of the application .

I have a Craftsman 12 inch direct drive but I don't think it uses the same type coupling to the blade tilt mechanism .I'll check it tomorrow after I get home from work .

That praticular swivel joint bearing listed  I believe is 26 degree rotation .

kelLOGg

I finally put the parts together to replace the blade angle adjustment. The Acme nuts prevent translational motion of the Acme rod but allows it to rotate.  I mounted it to the saw and tested it and it works well. It is easier to crank than the old one and holds the blade sufficiently well - at least better than the one it replaced. I can wrack the motor back and forth and make the blade angle respond but that could be due to the flexing of the side panel to which the adjuster is mounted. When wear occurs it can be adjusted. I'm pleased with it so far.
Bob



 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

beenthere

Bob
Nice rig'n. Good that you can get the repair done and not have to chuck the whole thing out.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: kelLOGg on August 03, 2012, 04:58:52 PM
... I can wrack the motor back and forth and make the blade angle respond but that could be due to the flexing of the side panel to which the adjuster is mounted. ...

Bob,

I solved that problem by reinforcing the side panel with some angle iron.

Herb

kelLOGg

Quote from: PC-Urban-Sawyer on August 04, 2012, 01:11:26 AM
Bob,I solved that problem by reinforcing the side panel with some angle iron.

Herb

That is a good idea! Thanks.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

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