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New guy needing help

Started by rsbhunter, July 09, 2012, 05:38:23 PM

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rsbhunter

I am new to the site, and glad i found it! I saw a reply by AMB30518 about using an aluminum guide for the Granberg Mini Mill....I just tried my new mini mill and noticed that my beams looked warped, end to end......Checked my guide 2x6 that WAS straight when new, and it was the exact shape as my beams!!!! The beams were just to try out the mill, so no big loss...Where can i get an aluminum guide, and what configuration do you use? I see 2"x6"x 12' rectangle alum tubing, but between the $123.00 for the tube, and another probably $80-100 for shipping (12' long) it is a bit steep....BUT, if it works, it will over time , be a good investment......Iv'e also thought of a 2"x6" composite board used for decks? Any ideas? Thanks, rsbhunter
"If you stand for nothing.....Then you'll fall for anything"

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Rsbhunter....I am unable to answer your questions but I can take time out to WELCOME you to the forum.

They'll be a little get together tonight with punch and grits in your honor as a new member, at 8:00pm at the wood shed.  :D

You'll have a good time on the FF and will sure learn a lot.

Again, Welcome.

David
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Delawhere Jack

Hunter, Welcome.

So the rails of your mill have some twist in them? Try getting three good straight edges (hardwood, hardwood plywood whatever) that you can lay across the rails, one at each end, and one in the middle. Of course they all need to be the same height. Then sight across the top of them and level your rails until they all line up.

(If a Granberg is not a bandmill, then disregard my reply.... ;D)

Sprucegum

Sounds like your 2x6 plank warped when you wern't looking  :(

I made a guide out of steel angle iron 1/8 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 because I didn't plan on carrying it very far but found it was quite light  8)



 

I used it on every cut because it made pushing the saw much easier. I even waxed it with car wax  :)

beenthere

Welcome to the Forum.

Get another 2x6 and keep checking it for "straight". Some will stay straight, and others will not. But suspect it is the cheapest route to take in the interim.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Nomad

     Some people use an aluminum ladder.  I guess it would work pretty good.  I've got the guide from Granberg.  Not the cheapest thing in the world, but light, strong and easy to use.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

boatman

For the mini mill i just take the aluminum v track and attach it on a 2x along a chalk line.   Your first cut will trim the edge of the plank.

Then just check it before use each time and reattach the v rail if needed.


losttheplot

I glued a couple of scrap pieces of 3/4ply together attached the guide rail to a chalk line then trimmed the edge of the ply with the first cut same as boat man. 


http://youtu.be/PL7eTJjZWs0
DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK !

schakey

Welcom rsbhunter ;)
Did someone mention GRITS?!!!! digin_2 smiley_blue_bounce
Think-Dream-Plan-Do

PC-Urban-Sawyer

rsbhunter,

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Pay no attention to David. He's just trying to get your goat. You shore don't want to go anywhere near the Woodshed here.

Sounds like you're getting pretty good advise on your guide problem.

Just remember: Be Careful!

Herb

rsbhunter

Thanks for all the welcomes.....(even the woodshed) reminds me of a joke about a "Montana Wingding" , but's thats another time....i might go the plywood doubled route, but reallywanted a 12'. Guess i could splice ....On the angle iron guide, are you using that with a Minimill? If so, how did you attach the guide rail sections? The only hold up on the aluminum rectangle tubing is i don't know if i would tack weld the guide bars, or have to drill and tap the tubing to take machine screws???? But please keep the replies going, as i love the ingenuity that goes into each style....Thanks again, hunter
"If you stand for nothing.....Then you'll fall for anything"

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, rsbhunter.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

thecfarm

rsbhunter,welcome to the forum. What are you sawing and building? By the way,GRITS are Girls Raised In The South,grits are the ones I don't like.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

WDH

Ray,

Like I said before, it is a start  :D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

rsbhunter

I'm building a small house/cabin . I plan on using the beams and boards (if i get into sawing boards) for sills, and beams for a small 8x12 shed.....nothing major, just hate to let the trees go to only firewood...rsbhunter
"If you stand for nothing.....Then you'll fall for anything"

thecfarm

Good luck and have fun sawing.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Piston

Quote from: Sprucegum on July 09, 2012, 06:12:38 PM
Sounds like your 2x6 plank warped when you wern't looking  :(

I made a guide out of steel angle iron 1/8 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 because I didn't plan on carrying it very far but found it was quite light  8)



 

I used it on every cut because it made pushing the saw much easier. I even waxed it with car wax  :)


Sprucegum, that's a great idea!


rsbhunter, welcome to the forum  ;D
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

rsbhunter

I have been thinking of different ways to achive a non-warping "board"...even considered making a square 1-1/2" tube ladder type frame (alum) and spot welding the guide rails to it.....Plywood souds do-able, even considered 3/4" plywood with a 1" sq alum tube mounted flush to the edge on each side  almost like a "U" channel..... I really believe in the do it right the first time, but it didn't work with the first 2"x6" board i got!!!!!!!!!! I'm in a small town, limited places to buy materials....Thanks for all the welcomes.....makes one glad to be a member....hunter
"If you stand for nothing.....Then you'll fall for anything"

Sprucegum

THe plywood with aluminum trim sounds good. If you want 12-foot boards make your guide 14 feet. Its nice to be able to drive off the end of the log without loosing the straight line cut.

losttheplot

perhaps try  a 2x6 box beam out of plywood, screws and glue ?
Or a torsion box beam made of ply.

Are you attaching blocks of wood,  each end of the log, to support the guide?
DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK !

fat olde elf

You need to get and read the Malloff book "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" I've been told that it is out of print, but you can find used copies. I've milled thousands of feet of oak and pine with a 5 inch Husky 381 and a granberg mill prior to buying my Cooks mill. It is hard work but it can be done. Say your prayers...
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

rsbhunter

Think for my next attempt, it will be 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed together......should i use an epoxy type glue for waterproofness? Thanks for all the advice, alot of "plan B's " are available now.....hunter
"If you stand for nothing.....Then you'll fall for anything"

Ga Mtn Man

I would just use a water-proof woodworking glue like TiteBond III.  Much less mess than epoxy. :)
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

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