Wood-Mizer RS2 resaw attachment

[paul case]

4x4,

It is a sawdust collector. You just use the blower that comes with it and pipe it in and out . They have 2- 4'' inlets and 5'' outlet. I use 4'' black corrugated plastic flexible pipe for the part that hooks to the mill and It would work on the other end as well, but pvc probably is better.
This works well for us on the mills.
This has NOT worked out for us on the edger. There is simply too much big chunks of bark and wood to go through it. I currently have a small square hay bale elevator that has sheet metal sides on it  made into a v trough to haul away the debris from under the edger. I have to do some shoveling there frequently as well. The conveyor would be nice for that. I located a couple for $500 each in Kentucky :(

PC

[Kbeitz]

A lot of people don't know that Woodstock International is part of Grizzly Tools.
They have more accessory's for the dust collectors then Grizzly has.

https://www.woodstockint.com/products/category/dust-collectors

https://www.woodstockint.com/products/category/dust-collection-accessories/fittings-and-connections



 

[4x4American]

Oh ok, the dust collectors I seen last night on Grizzlys page were all above the $1000 range, which was why I was looking for just the blower portion, I figured that'd be the most cheapest

[Kbeitz]

Oh ok, the dust collectors I seen last night on Grizzlys page were all above the $1000 range, which was why I was looking for just the blower portion, I figured that'd be the most cheapest

They show up on the Cragslist all the time...

[Percy]

This has NOT worked out for us on the edger. There is simply too much big chunks of bark and wood to go through it. I currently have a small square hay bale elevator that has sheet metal sides on it  made into a v trough to haul away the debris from under the edger. I have to do some shoveling there frequently as well. The conveyor would be nice for that. I located a couple for $500 each in Kentucky :(

PC

Thanks for this information. Hadnt considered that. I was seriously thinking of using a blower for this purpose as well.....

[Kbeitz]

What you need is something with Impact Heavy duty Blades...

http://freedomequipment.com/vmchk/Milling-Machinery/Blowers/M1006-Blower.html

[killamplanes]

Send me 2, if I can buy now pay later :D :D

[customsawyer]

If you use all plastic piping be sure to add some ground wire in a couple of places. The plastic and sawdust will create static and it could spark. Sparks and fine dust blowing through the air will be bad.

[4x4American]

If you use all plastic piping be sure to add some ground wire in a couple of places. The plastic and sawdust will create static and it could spark. Sparks and fine dust blowing through the air will be bad.

Thanks.


So..do you still have your resaw attachment?

[DR Buck]

If you use all plastic piping be sure to add some ground wire in a couple of places. The plastic and sawdust will create static and it could spark. Sparks and fine dust blowing through the air will be bad.

I've been using PVC in both my wood working shop and barn for the sawmill for years and none of it is grounded and I've never had a shock or seen a spark.   My wood shop has PVC mounted on 3 of the 4 walls and connects to at least 7 different tools.   This is probably the most discussed topic related to dust collection on the web.   No one has EVER posted anything related to fires from using it.  Below is just one of many posts on the subject.


"PVC is commonly used in dust collection systems. Typically for longer runs you should use 6" or larger pipe, regardless of the material. If you're using PVC, the larger, less expensive pipe is commonly available as sewer drain pipe.
As of May 2015, there have been no known fires caused by a static discharge in a PVC pipe from a dust collection system."

http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1489/is-pvc-pipe-safe-to-use-for-a-dust-collection-system


Here's another good reference:

http://www.thewoodnerd.com/articles/dustExplosion.html

[Kbeitz]

Cutting green wood I don't think we need to worry about dust explosions.
If your cutting dead dry wood that's another story...

[killamplanes]

Long story short John if you go with a 5 blade gang edger you will find out very quickly the sawdust piles up quickly. The mill down the road has a bigger pile next to that than he does next to the circle mill with a 2 blade vertical edger on it. But he also has a stand alone debarker, it makes the other processes much cleaner.  See there's always one more piece of equipment, it's a mean cycle, a real income tax saver.. ;D

[4x4American]

 :D :D :D  income tax saver thats good...


yea, idk at this point, I want to keep the pallet customer because it's good steady work, but I can't keep either of us happy at the pace I'm going.  I like the versatility of the attachment.  But, once I speak with a new-to-me concentration yard tomorrow I'll know more.  If they can supply me with tie logs, I dont think a resaw would help because I'm just taking 1.25" jacket boards and running those flitches through the edger at 3-1/2" and chop sawing them to length.  At that point the only thing to speed up my production is either another employee or a better method lol

[paul case]

  At that point the only thing to speed up my production is either another employee or a better method lol

I am saying it isnt one or the other it is one and then the other.

1 MAN and a bandmill wont cut wood fast enough to justify mor support equipment than you already have.

Get a good reliable helper with a good head on his shoulders and you can cut ties while he makes you money cutting pallet stringers from your side lumber!

PC

[4x4American]

I think you're right, it's hard to find good help, but I'm gonna keep looking.  The guy who buys my slabwood was visiting the other day, he laughed and said I'd never find any good help around here...hopefully he's wrong!

[4x4American]

I looked at the clock before and after I chopped some stringers today.  I was averaging about 140 stringers/hr.  That's just cutting them to length, not sawing them out of the log or edging.  Idk if that's good or bad but it feels like it takes way too long to make hardly any money. 

[paul case]

Thats probably about right.

My wife can chop 300 in about 2 hours. We get $.80 each so that's $240. There is about 350 bdft in a bundle. We pull off all the fas and 1com to sell at a flooring plant so all we make stringers out of we are actually making something that is only worth $.35 or less at the flooring plant into a product worth  more than $.60 bdft.  so by chopping them into stringers adds a value of $87.50 per bundle.

It only took about 2 hours to make $87.50? Actually better than that since a considerable amount of the lumber  would have only been worth a nickel(3b price) at the grade market.

Thats all hardwood. The guy I sell to doesnt want or take any pine.PC

[greglwood]

This is an older post but I hoping I can get a little information. I just purchased the RS2 attachment for my LT40. I am curious as to how hard this is to hookup and install. I'm not really talking about the original install, when I want to use it and after I'm done. How heavy is it, is it a 2 or more man job to sit it on the bed. Are the wire that have to be hooked up quickly connected and disconnected. It is my understanding that you unhook one cable(s) and hook up the resaw's in it's place. Is this true?

[DR Buck]

Hook up is a quick disconnect power connector.   Taking it off and on the mill is a two person effort or you need some way of lifting and maneuvering it.   I bought a harbor freight pickup truck mount swing out lift and mounted it on one of the vertical 6x6 barn post next to my mill and use it to lift and swing the resaw into place.   You could also use a fork lift by hanging the resaw with straps under the forks.

[saltydogs]

I'm planning on leaving my RS2 attached to my LT15 when i want to do traditional milling simply by removing the 4 bolt weight carriage.  At that point i can drive the head to the other side of the RS2 and off i go!

[saltydogs]

greglwood, you'll need to wire in the provided DC power plug and when you are finished with the resaw you just plug back into the power feed.  i'm not sure if that makes sense but its fairly simple really.  Too, just leave your resaw on your mill and then find a way to drive your mill over the resaw to continue using your mill traditionally.  At least that is how i approached it and it's only 4 bolts and lift off the hold down assembly.

[saltydogs]

This is an older post but I hoping I can get a little information. I just purchased the RS2 attachment for my LT40. I am curious as to how hard this is to hookup and install. I'm not really talking about the original install, when I want to use it and after I'm done. How heavy is it, is it a 2 or more man job to sit it on the bed. Are the wire that have to be hooked up quickly connected and disconnected. It is my understanding that you unhook one cable(s) and hook up the resaw's in it's place. Is this true?

The instructions to wire in the resaw are pretty good.  they are very intuitive and WM is good about labeling the wring and control box.  if you are gas with a DC battery, they'll provide you with an extension plug that you simply unplug when finished using the RS2.  Explore leaving the RS2 attached, otherwise it's a heafty 2 man lift with the mounting stand.

[redbeard]

Would like too welcome my good friend and Nieghbor Saltydogs to FF we have accomplished many projects together and looking forward to many more.

[Magicman]

Hello "good friend" saltydogs, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  I too look forward to seeing some of your future projects, but keep a sharp eye on that redbeard guy.   ;D

[greglwood]

If you leave the RS2 on the saw how much log length do you loose?  In other words whats the max log length with the RS2 left attached? 

Also a slight different question? If one was to add a bed extension to the saw could the RS2 be attached to the bed extension and left on there?