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My struggles with pecan and inexperience...

Started by grweldon, June 21, 2012, 11:59:36 AM

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grweldon

I am so new to milling (yesterday was day #1 with the mill) that I really don't know squat, but I DID learn a bunch yesterday, especially concerning length of logs, stop spacing, loading ramp spacing and cant dog spacing!  Experience is a great instructor!

I have a question about feedrate of the carriage.  I'm cutting pecan... trees that were uprooted by wind about 7 weeks ago.  All of the logs I cut 3 weeks ago and have been laying on the ground since.  I have a 25HP Kohler and I was using the standard TimberKing blades (7 deg x 7/8 pitch I think).  While milling the first log, aparently I fed too fast for a time and the blade dig in for a few inches until I slowed the feed.  Because I was learning, I didn't get much useful lumber from that log.  After the delivery guy left, I cut 2 other logs completely on my own, feeding as fast as I could and still sawing straight lumber.  I'm sure the blade is dull, but I did only saw 3 logs, total length of about 20' between the 3.  All boards were cut at 7/8 to 15/16th thick and all can't were betwee 6 and 7" wide. I timed the cut duration on the last log, cutting a 7" wide cant, 7' long and it took about 7min 45sec., which is a feedrate of about 10-11 inches per minute.  Moderately fast for steel, seems really slow for wood.  I'm sure the blade is dull, but I really didn't cut what I would consider much with the blade that was on the mill.

At first I cut with the water dripping, then I cut with it flowing fairly well, then I ended up cutting without it as it didn't seem to be making any difference in the amount of feed I could use without getting wavy cuts.  Is this typical of pecan?  What do I need to do differently?  Obviously I'm going to change the blade before I cut next, but what else do I need to be doing?  I'm thinking I should be cutting more like 20" per minute instead of 10....
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Ga Mtn Man

I haven't cut any pecan but I think you should be able to cut much faster than that.  Check the blade tilt by placing a straight edge across the blade, between the teeth, and measure down to a level placed across the bunks...the distance should be the same at both ends of the straight edge.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Kansas

Definitely much faster. First thing to do is look at your blade. Is there any pitch on it? That will make a huge difference. Hickory is prone to sap buildup, don't know that much about pecan. But if the blade heats up, the game is pretty well over right then and there.  Its possible something is out of whack on the machine, but its been my experience with the right blade for the log you are cutting, its all about the blade. I would flood the blade with water when you change blades, if you have more pecan to cut. Also don't be afraid to try some different brand blades. Woodmizer, Suffolk, Kasco, most of those folks will send you a free one to try. My guess is, you should be able to cut about 30 ft a minute speed wise on the carriage at a minimum with 25 horse.

mikeb1079

Quote7" wide cant, 7' long and it took about 7min 45sec.,

if i'm reading this right that is really really slow.  typically with my mill (16hp) this cut would take less than a minute.  going too slow seems to be worse actually than too fast b/c you're going to add stress and heat to the equation and dull your teeth way faster. 

QuoteIs there any pitch on it? That will make a huge difference. Hickory is prone to sap buildup, don't know that much about pecan. But if the blade heats up, the game is pretty well over right then and there.

good tip this.  keep a keen eye on your teeth.  even a little buildup can prevent straight cuts.  i ran into this for the first time cutting white ash dry.  i added water mixed with a bit of liquid cascade and it was night and day (thanks ff).  even a sharp band will not cut true with pitch building up on it's teeth.

it's cool to see you get your mill and get cutting.  just remember that your learning on a tough wood and keep it fun.   8) 8)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Cypressstump

U cutting with the front side or wrong side of that blade ? ?    :)

My 1220 with 25 horse will cut through 20" wide oak using a 7/8" x 10 degree blade much faster than what you are experienceing. I would think it would be the blade also, as the TK rep probably set that mill up correctly and you're just getting to use it much.
It gets intimidating up front. Hopefully instead of reading this on the PC you are out cutting with a sawdust filled grin after discovering the issues and having them corrected by now.
Good luck,
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

grweldon

Well, 30 feet per minute instead of 10 inches per minute would make the difference between 6 days milling the pecan and 3 months!  Cutting dry, I checked the blade for heat as soon as the blade came out of the wood.  Not even really warm to the touch... I'd say 90 degrees or so, which is what it happened to be temperature wise outside.

I couldn't cut any faster without wavy lumber, therefore, running slower IS NOT worse.  It might decrease blade life (which I doubt) but running faster was not an option as the machine was configured with that blade.

I will check the tilt of the blade front to back to see if it is parallel.  If I can manage to get at least 15' per minute feed, this will be so much better!  Also, I'm sure there won't be sawdust "mud" left on the boards...

The delivery person wasn't getting much faster results... 
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Cypressstump

what is the set on the blade you are using? are you getting fine dust out of the discharge or fine chips?
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

grweldon

I don't know what the set is stump.  I assume that it's about .010 in each direction since the back of the blade is .045 thick and I'm getting 15/16 boards when I align the scale at 1" intervals.  Yes, I'm getting fine powder instead of chips.  When feeding at 10 inches per minute, I suppose that is a given.  I won't get chips unless I can cut faster.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Cypressstump

Altho I am by no means an 'Xpurt",  :-\, with a good blade you can 'feel' the cut is right and I'll see the fine chip or large sawdust I refered to. As my blades dull, naturally it takes more force to cut. I use a larger set on mine since I mainly cut softer wood. I'll use a 22-25 deg. set. And even that large set will still cut well in oak, but I don't cut much hardwood, or I'd go with the tighter set as recommended on here and by the manufactors.

Does your blade dive down on entry / rise up on exit much?

I know it sucks not having it cut to your expectations, but it typically is not much to correct.  One of these guys will getcha figgered out. !

Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

grweldon

Stump,

Are you sure blade set is specified in degrees and not thousandth of an inch?  My set would be fairly close to yours if so.  I believe my set is about .020-.025.  I think I said that in my last post.

Since I'm not pushing my head, I don't "feel" anything...

My blade does not change depth of cut upon entry...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Cypressstump

corrected, yes meant thousands instead of degree... What if any did the TK rep have to offer as advise upon setup?
Stump

Timberking 1220 25hp w/extensions -hard mounted
Case 586E 6k forklift
2001 F350 4X4,Arctic Cat 500 4 wheeler wagon hauler
Makita 6401 34",4800 Echo 20"er, and a professional 18" Poulan PRO , gotta be a 'pro' cuz it says so rite there on tha' saw..

swampbuggy

Is the engine spooling up to maximum RPM's? What about blade tension? It sure sounds like there are other issues going on. I hate to ask but is the blade installed in the correct direction? We all have experienced issues when starting up, it is part of the learning process.

Swamp
If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

grweldon

Swamp, I took delivery of the mill yesterday.  I didn't touch anything.  I cut a log with the person who delivered it.  While I have been know to put a chain backward on a saw, I think it would be really difficult for me not to notice a blade being on backward, plus, it wouldn't cut at all.  I restate... I'm cutting with the blade that came on the machine... haven't done a single change as of this moment.  I WILL do that tonight while I check blade alignment.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Ianab

First thing is to try another blade, that's the most likely source of the problem, and easiest to change. Maybe it's faulty from new, (wrong set or something), or has hit a pebble in the bark, instantly dull, and needs a resharp. Either way, throw on a new blade. If things then work normally, and continue to for 1/2 the day, then all is well.

If not, then you can dig deeper, tension, alignment etc.

Something is certainly not right, you should almost be able to cut at that speed with a hand saw  :D

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

hackberry jake

I cut a wack of pecan a couple months ago. Things I learnt.

1: pecan is the devil
2: one log can and will dull a new blade
3: pecan is the devil
4: factory set with most bands isn't enough, try for 30 thousands
5: pecan is the devil
6: I used diesel and bar oil mix and I let the band run for a while after the cut with the lube dripping on it to clean it off before the next cut.
7: pecan is the devil
8: flip the log often or it will rainbow on you
9: pecan is the devil
10: park a tank on your sticker stack to keep it straight while drying.
11: pecan is very very heavy... And it's the devil.
12: I would much rather cut bodark (almost the hardest wood in north America)
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

Delawhere Jack


hackberry jake

It wasn't too bad after I learned everything the hard way. I wouldn't mind having some more logs. It made some awesome looking lumber!
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

DR_Buck

How much tension on the blade?   Are you running blade lube (water) on it?    Even pecan (hickory) at 7" wide you should fly through.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: Kansas on June 21, 2012, 01:42:33 PM
My guess is, you should be able to cut about 30 ft a minute speed wise on the carriage at a minimum with 25 horse.

:o I needs me some more horsepowers!!!  :o

Buck

Dont adjust anything. Try a new blade and flush the water to it. I'm thinking you will get better results. You are running wayyyyy slow. Over time you will be able to hear that blade when it is right. Do you have a softer wood to gain experience on. Pecan can be a challenge but not impossible.
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

customsawyer

Pecan is a very difficult wood to cut. Try a new blade and lots of water.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

sawman

Quote from: customsawyer on June 21, 2012, 06:58:41 PM
Pecan is a very difficult wood to cut. Try a new blade and lots of water.

I'll second that, to date pecan is the hardest thing we have sawn.
'14 LT40 Hydraulic 26 HP koehler ,massey ferguson 2200 forklift, Case IH D40
Wallenstein FX85

WDH

I have heard that "pecan is the devil"  :D. 

Very difficult wood, for sure.  GR, you are brave to cut your teeth on pecan.  Just wait until you cut some yellow poplar.  You will think that you have gone to sawing heaven  ;D.

Most likely it is a dull blade.  Hopefully that is the case.  Pecan will vex anyone, that is for sure.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

GF

When I cut pecan I use blades set .026 to .028, if I use the set that comes on a new blade it seems to wonder, especially in wide pecan.   I really do not like cutitng pecan especially with alot large knots.

GF

YellowHammer

grweldon,
Speaking from my own inexperience, and the troubles I had cutting with my mill when I first took delivery, I can definately understand what you are going through.  First, as you have already discovered, its important to get a feel for how the mill behaves when it is cutting right before you can get a feel for whats going on when it is cutting wrong.  I suggest finding some other kind of softer logs to cut for a few hours, even if you have to cut a tree down to get them (I did).  Also, even though there is probably nothing wrong with the mill, I know that it was very helpful for me to go through the standard alignment and tension checks, just to make sure everything was correct.  Also, I was cutting waaay too slow (3X) because I was having wavy cuts, too, which would heat up the blade, and cause even more wavy cuts, then causing me to slow down more, etc.  Within minutes, I had trashed the blade.  So with a new blade, I jacked the blade tension to max, and really put the lube to it.  As soon as the blade tension crept down I would readjust it immediately, even while the blade was still feeding.  I had no idea how much lube I should have been using until I made the connection that the blades should stay shiny, with absolutely no buildup or color change.  They should look like they did when they went on the mill, only not as sharp. Is the lube bouncing off the blade, or being carried into the cut? 
Get one of the new blades and finger it for sharpness, then compare it to the blade you are using. 
I'm still learning things everyday, and know you will get it figured out, especially with the great folks on this forum.  They know their stuff.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Okrafarmer

If you are learning on pecan, you can will be a graduate from Miller University soon. Then you will be able to cut all your other domestic species after that.

I just cut my first pecan log the other day. It was a crotch piece, very beautiful inside, and I never would have made it without the free trial blade I was using. It is a Munkfors blade, and after milling 6 logs with it before it was too dull to use-- far better than the other junk blades I've been using-- I ordered ten more. The Munkfors blade is night and day better than the other stuff I was using. The Pecan did dull it some, but it would have just about destroyed our other blades.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

5quarter

Grweldon...welcome to hell.  ;)

At this point, your blade is probably dull and should be changed, but there's something else wrong. You say that the rep was not getting much better results with, I assume a new blade. You say that the blade is running cool at the end of the cut. and you have horsepower to spare considering the sizes you're cutting. I think you are not getting adequate power to the blade. Check the drive belt tension. is the driven pulley on the saw head keyed on the shaft or clamped with set screws? Is there any lubricant on the pulley or underside of the belts? I think Timberking uses tight belts on the bandwheels...perhaps they lubed them to get them on? Bandspeed is directly related to feed rate. when bandspeed (rpms) drops, you either slow the feed rate or cut wavy lumber.Given you're stated feed rate, it is almost inconcieveable that the Rep would have just left without any troubleshooting. As much as I hope that a clean, sharp blade fixes your trouble, I think that is more likely that something is slipping and causing rpm loss at the blade. keep us posted.

WDH...somehow, I get the sense that Pecan is not in your top ten. Please, just tell us how you really feel... ;)
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

ladylake


Also check the down pressure and how far the flange or bearing is behind the blade, I think TK only likes 1/8" downpressure but most here run 1/4" with better results. Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

WDH

Quote from: 5quarter on June 22, 2012, 02:04:36 AM
Grweldon...welcome to hell.  ;)

WDH...somehow, I get the sense that Pecan is not in your top ten. Please, just tell us how you really feel... ;)

Actually, I love the look and grain of pecan lumber.  It is beauty with a price.  Even after it is sawn and dried, it will give you fits with your planer blades, and if you like interminable sanding, it is the species for you  :D.

I am seeing about 20% drying defect loss in that 1500 BF that Customsawyer and I cut on his LT70.  Even with the LT70, we got a few wavy cuts and hit some nails, par for the course with pecan!
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

grweldon

Thanks for all the useful comments.  I did not get to mill last night, but I did change the blade.  I also leveled up the mill precisely and checked for band parallelism to the bed, along the bed and side-to-side.  All was well.

Now that I've read all the comments, this is what comes to mind...

First, Pecan is the Devil!

Second, I think I had a part in destroying the first blade.  Several things happened that y'all have pointed out... First is pitch on the blade.  It DID develop signs of pitch on the blade when I stopped using lube.  When I used it again, the pitch came off in the length of a 7' cut.

Third, because the clutch of the mill is electric, there is a switch that controls it on the operator's panel.  The switch should be guarded.  Once while in a cut, I accidentally hit the switch, stopping the blade.  I fed about 1/4" with the blade not moving.  This may have been the beginning of blade damage.

Fourth, while I was checking some things on the mill, I had the engine at about half throttle and when I started the cut, I forgot to go to full throttle.  I cut about 3' this way until I noticed and corrected.

Fifth, the TK delivery guy had never cut pecan, didn't know anything about it and I think he started out with too little water running.  This may have been the very first thing to go wrong.

Sixth, Pecan is the Devil!

Seventh, even with a good blade, you can only cut just so much pecan with one blade.

I'm much better armed with information and advice to mill some more logs and I'm certain my future attempts will be much more successful.  Thank you ALL for your advice.  I'm not discouraged at all, the lumber IS beautiful!  It will make nice flooring for my house!

Has anybody tried the Timberwolf cobalt blades?  I watched a guy cut some cherry on a WM-30 a few weeks ago and he was using one.  He said it cut great...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

ladylake


Cherry cuts easy except with a dull blade.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mikeb1079

QuoteHas anybody tried the Timberwolf cobalt blades?  I watched a guy cut some cherry on a WM-30 a few weeks ago and he was using one.  He said it cut great...

of course it cut great, cherry is a dream to saw.   :)  seriously though i've heard good things about twolf bands but it's probably more due to the forgiving nature of black cherry.  the nice thing about your situation is that after this pecan trial by fire everything else is downhill!   8) 8)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Okrafarmer

Quote from: mikeb1079 on June 22, 2012, 12:28:47 PM
QuoteHas anybody tried the Timberwolf cobalt blades?  I watched a guy cut some cherry on a WM-30 a few weeks ago and he was using one.  He said it cut great...

of course it cut great, cherry is a dream to saw.   :)  seriously though i've heard good things about twolf bands but it's probably more due to the forgiving nature of black cherry.  the nice thing about your situation is that after this pecan trial by fire everything else is downhill!   8) 8)

Oh come on, cherry isn't that easy to saw. Easier than pecan, yes, but still a bear. poplar, maple, walnut, tupelo, pine, cedar, sweetgum, baldcypress, those are easy to saw.

BTW, I examined the blade I dulled on the pecan crotch piece, and sure enough, there was sweet pecan gum caked on the blade. I don't think I lubed it enough.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

hackberry jake

My favorite is sycamore, no lube required and a band might last for 1000bf. Cuts straight and fast. It is very soft when wet, but seems surprisingly strong when dry.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

Okrafarmer

Yes, I've been wanting to try some sycamore, but Poston40 and others have said that it really needs to be q-sawn and I'm not set up very well for that at this time.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Left Coast Chris

My most difficult day sawing was with Pecan.  It IS the devil.   To compound that I mixed up the new box of blades with the dull box of blades.  Mix that with the devil (Pecan) and you will have a bad day.   Once I got the mix up straightened out and got a sharp blade the sawing went better but still had to change blades frequently.   

Any pics of the your Pecan?  With all of that work you now deserve to show off a little....  :)

Now you need to watch the drying.   Suggest at least 1" thick stickers and make sure you get good air circulation.  Use a fan if stored inside.   I did mine in the winter and stacked in a hay barn.  No fan.  Alot of it came out blotchy or discolored.  I read that Pecan is prone to blotching with poor air circulation due to the sugars in the wood affecting color.  Good luck and post some pics!
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

Magicman

Young trees, (less than 24") and "limb logs" Have caused me the most Pecan grief.

I have always found clear mature Pecan logs without crotches to be stable and make some beautiful lumber.


 
These Pecan logs behaved very well.


 
Taking side lumber from the 3rd face.


 
Sawing through.  These 1X12's will be wall paneling.
 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WDH

Sometimes pecan can be sneaky, and act like it is behaving when it is sawn green.  Put it on sticks and wait nine months, and you will think that it has been away the whole time surfing in California because of all the waves  :).

Pecan limb wood is a bad nightmare waiting to happen  :-\.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

customsawyer

I am not sure why but Pecan and Hickory will dull a blade faster than any other wood I cut.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

WDH

That is because, as Hackberry Jake pointed out, "Pecan is the devil", and pecan is a hickory. 

Remember the Associative Theory of Mathematics?  If A=B, and B=C, then A=C  :D :D :D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

customsawyer

Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Larry

Lot of other hard woods can cause problems at times.  Let the ends of white oak dry out and they can be difficult.

It's the sawyers job to figure out how to get good boards out of those logs.  Lot of little tricks.  Sometimes one thing will work and the next time something else.  My lube  is water but at times I'll add Cascade dish washer soap, PineSol, or maybe go to diesel.  Bands can run from 4 degree hook to 12.  I've been known to make one cut with a brand new band and pull it because I wasn't happy with the way it was cutting.

The description of how fast you were sawing (really slow) tells me there is/was a major problem.  Nothing that a little tweaking would fix.  Most probably a very dull blade.  Sometimes it doesn't take much to dull a band.  Your logs have any mud on them?

I think you're a bit handicapped with the TK band.  Last I knew there bands are all 10 degree.  A great general purpose band but not what I would choose for pecan.  What happens with those high hook angles is the tip is slender.  It dulls far faster than the tip of a fat 7 degree band.  I have cut pecan with TK bands and made good boards but the hook angle gets reduced first time I sharpen. 
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Okrafarmer

Nobody commented on my use of the Munkfors blade-- I was hoping to hear if any of you had used one. It was a vast improvement for me.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Buck

You aroused my curiosity Okrafarmer. I'm watching too. ;)
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

grweldon

I did a bit more sawing on Friday night.  I cut up a crooked 9 foot long log, about 14" in diameter on the large end.  Didn't get much lumber from it but I did get a few figured crotch pieces.

The only thing I did differently was that I used a new blade and I used plenty of water.  I went through about 4 gallons in a 2 hour period.  I timed one of the cuts during the middle of sawing and I was sawing at about 4 feet per minute feedrate in a 7-inch wide cut.  Much better than before, but still not 20 feet per minute as someone suggested.  Whenever I tried faster feedrates, the carriage would start to wobble a bit, or the end of the log would start to bounce a bit.

The lumber was all flat, no waves or dips.  Blade stayed pitch free and I was basically happy.  I don't have any pics of the lumber yet but most of it was very attractive.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

ellmoe

Quote from: Okrafarmer on June 25, 2012, 01:17:18 AM
Nobody commented on my use of the Munkfors blade-- I was hoping to hear if any of you had used one. It was a vast improvement for me.

   Fla. Deadheader use to use them and liked them quite well, if I remember correctly.
Mark
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

Magicman

Four feet per minute is still extremely slow.   :-\

On another note, I would add soap to your water to break the surface tension and make the water "wetter".  Personally, I use 2 oz. of Cascade per gallon for several reasons, one of which it does not bubble and foam up when I fill my jug.  Generics have not worked for me.  Ten ounces per 5 gallon jug cost about 60 cents. 
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grweldon

Magicman,

I have been using hand dishwashing liquid.  If the purpose is to keep the pitch off the blade, it is doing an excellent job.  I think I used about a 4-6 oz. (liquid) in the 5 gallon tank.  I'm using Ajax because it's what I had.  I've heard Dawn recommended.  Besides not bubbling up, what other benefits would I see using Cascade instead?  Thanks for the tip.

I'm still using the TK blades, it's what I have and they came with the mill.  I don't know what speed (feet per minute) a band is supposed to run, that will be the next thing I attempt to determine.  Eventually I'm going to try to increase the downward deflection of the band at the guides as someone suggested.  I believe TimberKing recommends 1/8".  Don't know exactly what I should increase it to, I guess I'll try 3/16 first and see what happens.

Maybe it will cut just fine with the carriage shaking a bit.  Without changing my current setup, I will try increasing the feed tomorrow and see what happens.

These logs are not dirty, they were pushed down by high winds, but they do have some sort of leafy fern growing in the bark.  The bark is quite spongy and on the last log I cut I tried to remove as much as I could before sawing.  Maybe sawing through this stuff is dulling the blade at an accelerated rate and it could be contributing to the slow feed.  As I say, it's not dirt impregnated...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Larry

Quote from: grweldon on June 25, 2012, 08:26:01 AM
or the end of the log would start to bounce a bit.

Could your bounce also be described as chatter?  If so that is an absolute positive sign of too much hook.

I agree with MM that four feet per minute is still slow.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

grweldon

Being one of a machinist background, I am intimately familiar with chatter in machining metals.  The common remedys are to increase the rigidity of the setup, decrease the cutting tool speed and increase the feed.

I am obviously unfamiliar as to how chatter would manifest itself when cutting wood, but I would most likely assume it's because of the lack of clamping at the ends of the log.  In the whole 5 logs I've milled, the ends of the log/cant were not supported by a backstop or clamp and kind of out in space.  These were not large logs, I've yet to mill anything over 12" in diameter.  A stiffer/heavier piece wouldn't move like the ones I've milled.

I have taken notice of the suggestions of using a blade with less hook angle and will certainly try this when I order more blades, but I'm going to use the ones that came with the mill first... see no reason not to unless I should save them for some other type of wood such as the pine I will be milling.

Again, I'm not experienced with bandsawing of wood outside of dry stock on my woodworking bandsaw and although I wouldn't rule out chatter, it's not what first comes to mind when I see it.  I will also keep this in mind next time I mill...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Magicman

Quote from: grweldon on June 25, 2012, 09:01:52 AM
Besides not bubbling up, what other benefits would I see using Cascade instead?

That is reason enough for me.  I put the Cascade in the jug first and then fill.  It is well mixed and no bubbles.
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slider

I was with customsawyer and danny a while back cutting pecan there were some issues with the band wanting to wander.I remember jake changing to a 4 degree  blade and things improved right away.hope this helps  al
al glenn

SamB

Not familiar with the TK1400 and never sawed pecan, have sawn hard dried out oak and hickory with my TK1220 20HP. If I were sawing a 9 foot long by 7 inch wide cant with a dull band and still getting acceptable cuts it wouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds per pass. Something is definitely not right if you're taking 2 minutes to make a cut. I've never tried cutting with a reversed blade but I'm thinking it would cut as fast as you're cutting. I'll be interested to see what the resolution is to this dilemma. :)

grweldon

The band is NOT on backwards...thank you for your concern...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

hackberry jake

I have tried a lot of different blades. Timberwolf and monkey blades are my favorites to date. I haven't had much luck with 10 degree bands in super hard woods. For pecan, hickory, and bodark I run a band with less hook. If you sink a 10 degree band in a 20" wide bodark cut, it will grab so hard it almost shuts down the engine. The chatter is the band grabbing, then breaking loose, grabbing, breaking loose. With less hook, you don't have the chatter because you are "taking a smaller bite". I would go ahead and order a few 4 degree bands.
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Cutting Edge

Quote from: Larry on June 24, 2012, 10:39:30 PM
I have cut pecan with TK bands and made good boards but the hook angle gets reduced first time I sharpen. 

Quote from: grweldon on June 25, 2012, 09:12:41 AM
I have taken notice of the suggestions of using a blade with less hook angle and will certainly try this when I order more blades, but I'm going to use the ones that came with the mill first... see no reason not to unless I should save them for some other type of wood such as the pine I will be milling.

grweldon,     Do you have someone close to you that could sharpen a blade or two with less hook??  Might be a quicker way to see if it corrects at least some issues.
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


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grweldon

rwthom279,

That is a great suggestion, but I'm afraid I wouldn't know how to find someone who could do that in my area.  I suppose it would be unreasonable that just anybody who advertises that they sharpen saw blades could do what needed to be done?

BTW... I'm a big advocate of the "Work smarter, not harder" theory you have in your info block!
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Cutting Edge

gr,

I'd be more than happy to help ya on the sharpening aspect, except....a few hundred miles and couple states are in the way.  Hopefully someone a bit closer will be able to lend a hand.
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

mikeb1079

i've had good luck with woodmizer 4 degree bands in dried out hardwoods.  you could just order one and give it a try.  my mill is only 16hp and i have not noticed any chatter at all. 
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

grweldon

I was going to order a blade from Cook's this afternoon, until I was told the shipping cost was going to be over half the price of the blade and Cook's is in the same state!  I suspect it would only be worse for others.  Not sure how I'll deal with this but I'm looking...

My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Fla._Deadheader

 Contact Kennesaw, in Kennesaw, Ga, and ask for a sample blade to fit your mill. You will need the length.

They gave us a free sample, and I then ordered over 150 blades through the years. They surely made money off that free sample. You should get the famous "Monkey Blade", Munksforsager.  8) 8) They are Swedish Steel.

I doubt you will ever try anything else, after using one of those.

We have cut wood MUCH harder than Pecan-Hickory, and Bodark. We cut some exotic tropical species. Blade chatteres but, cuts straight-flat and fast, depending on HP and sharpness.
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   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

SamB

grweldon,
Not trying to pick on you, but why not, if you haven't already, get a softer log and see how it saws. I've used nothing but TK blades for all kinds of wood and had no significant problems. Yes some woods saw better than others, but I'm not sawing for production and doesn't sound like you are either. You could have some bad blades, but if you can see that there is set in them and they feel sharp you should be able to cut most woods. Maybe you'll need a special blade for the pecan, but until you're sure of your setup with the TK1400 why go that route. :)

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: grweldon on June 25, 2012, 01:31:16 PM
The band is NOT on backwards...thank you for your concern...

I haven't put a blade on backwards but I have put one on that was inside-out.  Didn't saw all that well.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Okrafarmer

Quote from: Ga_Mtn_Man on June 25, 2012, 06:56:45 PM
Quote from: grweldon on June 25, 2012, 01:31:16 PM
The band is NOT on backwards...thank you for your concern...

I haven't put a blade on backwards but I have put one on that was inside-out.  Didn't saw all that well.

I think that is what was meant by backwards. I've done it once. The result is it burns a very shallow crease in the log and couldn't be said to cut. I don't think this was his problem, but somebody always has to suggest it whenever someone has these kinds of problems.  ::)
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

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Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Okrafarmer

BTW, I went back to my old resharpened brand ? blades to saw two tupelo logs since I knew tupelo is an easy push-over to mill. Man, I hate the old blades. I'm going to rip open that box of brand new Munkfors (ten blades) next time I mill, unless poplar, cedar, or pine is next. Yes, I did get mine from Kennesaw. At least I think I did. I deal over the phone with the owner, whom I know by name, though I've never met him face to face.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

hackberry jake

I got mine from Menominee saw. They are one of our sponsors and have very reasonable prices. You might do like me and order a couple band of each to we what you like. The las time I placed an order with them it was 3 red streaks, 3 woodmasters, two monkey blades, and two woodmizer double hards. All came in the same box.
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Okrafarmer

Quote from: hackberry jake on June 25, 2012, 08:38:54 PM
I got mine from Menominee saw. They are one of our sponsors and have very reasonable prices. You might do like me and order a couple band of each to we what you like. The las time I placed an order with them it was 3 red streaks, 3 woodmasters, two monkey blades, and two woodmizer double hards. All came in the same box.

Interesting, Jake. So what types of wood to you use each of those for?
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

hackberry jake

The woodmaster C blades I use on cedar and get great feed rates, also because cedar sometimes has metal in it and it's one of he cheapest blades. I use the Simmons on logs that are fairly clean and low metal risk because they seem to have a weaker tooth, but last a long time in clean logs. I use monkey blades on my higher quality walnut an cherry because they always cut straight and leave almost a Planer finish on the boards. I have only tried one woodmizer and it was on pecan so it wasn't a very fair test. I will try out the other one soon though.
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EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

Okrafarmer

Well the munky blade I tried first did awesome in persimmon, a big red maple, and a pecan crotch. So I'm a believer now, especially for the harder woods. I'll use the ? blades we have lying around for all the softer stuff.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

grweldon

Quote from: SamB on June 25, 2012, 05:26:06 PM
get a softer log and see how it saws.

I have plenty of pine to cut but I'm under time constraints to get the pecan out of where it's at.  Been talking to the TimberKing guys and they tell me to push the saw a bit more.  While one tech I've spoken to after reading this thread also thinks it might be a chatter issue, but says the blades that I have should be able to cut the pecan no problem and suggest that although a smaller hook angle may make a difference in feedrate, it's not going to be a night and day difference, or at least that's what I understood him to say.  When I saw tonight, I'll push it a bit more and see what happens.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

LeeB

You might try increasing the blade tension a tad and see if that makes a difference. Also check the drive belt. A new belt will stretch a lot and cause the drive wheel to slip. Slow blade speed will cause the problems you describe.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

ladylake


Have you checked the down pressure on the blade yet, it needs 1/4".  Also get those 4* blades, I won't use 10* blades on tough wood. As mentioned above a 7" x 8' cant should take 15 to 20 seconds maybe 30 seconds in real hard wood.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

grweldon

Steve,

First off, I don't know where to get 4deg. blades.  I'm checking into some Lenox 7deg blades.  When speaking to Mike at TimberKing, he didn't tell me NOT to increase the down pressure, but recommended against it.  I was also told the 10deg. blades should be able to handle the job just fine as well, but I'm not getting ANY life out of them either.  While I'm trying to iron things out, I want to do it their way first so they can't tell me I'm not following their instructions.  I'm still having a heck of a time just getting a flat cut at any feedrate other than really slow.  I've adjusted the idler bandwheel as it was a bit out of plumb from the factory.  I've also adjusted the moveable guide arm as it was not parallel with the blade, also from the factory.  I've adjusted the tilt of the blade guide rollers as they were not both contacting the blade uniformly, also out of adjustment from the factory.

I'd really hate to haul this thing back to them, but it's always an option...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

ladylake


I think most on here agree 1/4" down pressure works the best, also that's what Cooks recomended when I was talking to them a while back.  The reason I'm after you to check it is it might be at 0 or 1/16 and not giving the band any control. Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Ronnie

I had terrible trouble cutting Pecan a few months ago with my TK ultra max blades. I was getting wavy cuts and the blade dived once. I only made a few cuts then switched to a Timberwolf blade a 1 1/4" x 7/8" .045 with .024 set per side. Still had trouble with wavey cuts so I switched again to a 1 3/8" x 13/16" with an 8 degree hook " They call it the Cobalt Blade". Walla!! That was the magic ticket I blazed through the pecan with out any more issues!! If you call and talk to the folks at Suffolk Machinery they will give you a free education on blades and send you a free DVD. Janet at Woodmizer was also good help on blade advice. That Cobalt is a pricey blade!!! My ultra max blades cut cedar like a dream but struggle with harder woods.

Good Luck!!
TK2000, JD5075, Stihl 660,270,170.

grweldon

Ladylake... I just set the downpressure yesterday at 1/8".

Ronnie... The only time I saw someone actually sawing in person before I bought my mill the guy was using a Timberwolf cobalt blade.  Cobalt blades are high-speed steel with cobalt alloyed to it for toughness.  I was eyeing them... I think they are about $45 bucks a pop.  My local Fastenal was supposed to be checking on a specific Lenox blade for me this morning, but as usual, I haven't heard back from them.  I think I may go with the Timberwolf cobalt.

How much cut time did you get from the blade before it dulled?
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

wwsjr

WM in Noonan, GA has the 4* blades I am sure. Look on the WM site on the left for their tel number. I run the 1 1/4", 045 in both 10* for most cutting and 4* for dry hardwood. If you get the WM blades, you can then use resharp.
Retired US Army, Full Time Sawyer since 2001. 2013 LT40HD Super with 25HP 3 Phase, Command Control with Accuset2. ED26 WM Edger, Ford 3930 w/FEL, Prentice Log Loader. Stihl 311, 170 & Logrite Canthooks. WM Million BF Club Member.

grweldon

Thanks WWSJR... I'll keep that in mind.  I'm sure I'll try them just to try to save some money compared to the Timberwolf cobalt blades I ordered.  They were $47.70 each plus shipping.  I would assume the WM blades are about half that price...

Edit... I just also ordered 2 of the Woodmizer 4deg blades.  I really hope one of the two different blades makes a dramatic improvement.  I'm going to be really frustrated if they don't.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

customsawyer

If you are still having trouble with the WM 4° blades than it is something with the mill.
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ladylake

 And if it still won't saw sraight try `1/4" down pressure.  Nothing to lose lose as I get up to 20 sharpenings out of a blade, not all but some.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

YellowHammer

Quote from: customsawyer on June 27, 2012, 07:36:21 PM
If you are still having trouble with the WM 4° blades than it is something with the mill.

What CustomSawyer says is right on.
I use 4 degree woodmizer blades in the hardest wood around here, dry hickory, pecan and beech. They are really good.

I'm sure you have You Tubed your mill many times.  Those videos should give you an idea of your approximate expected feed rate.  How does yours compare? 


YH

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

ladylake

 
One other thing, all mills are basically the same ,  It's just a matter of adjustment and the right blade.      Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

grweldon

Quote from: YellowHammer link=topic=59038.msg862137#msg862137I'm sure you have You Tubed your mill many times.  Those videos should give you an idea of your approximate expected feed rate.  How does yours compare? 

There are not many videos of the 1440 on youtube, mostly ones produced by TimberKing.

Quote from: ladylake on June 28, 2012, 04:56:04 AM
  One other thing, all mills are basically the same ,  It's just a matter of adjustment and the right blade.      Steve

Of this I have no doubt.  I was warned about pecan before I started.  I was prepared for difficulty, I just want to get it sorted out.
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

grweldon

The big pecan log is no more!  Finally got the mill cutting well.  I'm not getting 20 or 30 feet per minute feedrate from it, but I'm getting over 4 feet per minute again cutting a 12" wide board. I'm sure I could push it some more but I'll wait until I get more suitable blades.

I finally can hear the blade chatter that folks here have mentioned as a result of too high of a hook angle.  I believe it is also the cause of the carriage starting to rock side-to-side during a cut.

In any case, I now have a few wided 8/4 and 4/4 boards that I didn't have before!  Some of them are beautifully spalted!  I have about 3 times as much as shown in the truck.  Those are 2" boards shown.  The largest of which weighed at least 100 pounds as it came off the mill.  It was all I could do to get it in the truck.  I thank all of you here who have offered advice and assistance.  This forum is a valuable resource!



My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Magicman

 smiley_thumbsup  You will get it.  There is nothing like starting with the worst, but at least then you can taper off and enjoy sawing.   :)
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LeeB

I recon you'll also learn soon enought to keep your door shut.  :D It won't keep all the dust out but it will slow it down some. I cut my teeth on pecan too, with a TK 1200. Still have some of it and that was about 14 years ago. Have since moved on from the TK, but it was a good mill for what I was doing with it.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

WDH

Those pecan planks look devilishly heavy  :).

Way to go  8) 8).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Migal

Congrats on getting that Pecan down to size the only Pecan I have cut was dead and it was like all the sand in the ground around it was in the wood dust but customer was happy and we made plenty of wood for him I found my speed picked up as the sun went down. ;)
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Okrafarmer

I'm still telling you, those Munkfors blades are the cat's pj's. Pecan, no problem. Whatever blade you use, you have to make sure you're lubing plenty, as that gum will build up on your blade.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

grweldon

I've been told that the TimberKing blades are actually rebranded Munkfors...  I don't know if it's true...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

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