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What should i do for routine Maint on my three saws, Husky/Stihl.

Started by JOE.G, June 20, 2012, 09:51:51 AM

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JOE.G

I have a Husky 55 rancher and a 450.
I also have a stihl 009.

I am they type of person who likes to take care of there stuff and I am very big on Maint.

Can you guys give me a walk though on what I should be doing with my saws, to make sure they last a very long time. Thanks
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

ladylake

 Try and use gas without ethonal and add some seafoam or stabil, some drain the gas for storage, I try and run my small engines at least every month or 2 without running dry as I don't think that gets every last bit of gas out of the carb.

When you run it after storage and it doesn't run right don't run it, clean the carb, check fuel lines etc. Don't run it goes for anytime it's not running right, sluggish throttle, really screaming are signs of being lean ready to burn up.
Low on power check the exhaust screen 1st.     Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Full Chisel

A few real important maintenance tasks for someone like you, Joe who wants to optimize are often overlooked. Because Husky and Stihl were invented in areas with adverse conditions and tested all over the world, they have been improved and tweaked over the last century to withstand an inordinate amount of abuse. A detail oriented guy can keep one runnin' a long time.

1. Drive Sprockets. This is one thing I've found aftermarket, (Oregon Power Now) which is as good as OEM Stihl. I think they are a buck cheaper. I like modular compatibility. You know on the old Chevys how you could swap distributors or alternators and so forth between Big Block/Small Block and across various applications? Interchangeability. It was mostly Henry Fords concept- I don't remember Fords in my time being that way, though. Rim sprockets swap across most of my Stihls, (and they all run the same spark plug). Look at an old one and a new one, you'll get a feel for that. Keepin' those fresh will maximize the service life on your drive links.

2. When you change out the sprocket, pull the drum and GREASE that bearing behind it! Spin the drum a little when you put it back on to engage the bar oil pump. You'll hear it click.

I could go on. Good topic, Joe interesting to see where this one goes.

Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Clam77

Keep the air filter clean.  Some of these guys that make a living with their saws may have to do it 2+ times a day if it's dusty enough.  I use mine fairly often, although not daily, so I might clean mine every other day or something- again depending how dusty the wood is.

Also, when you take the cover off to clean the air filter- blow out any dust or woodchips under the cover FIRST... some sawdust or a few chips in the carb won't make the saw happy- or you if you end up having to try to clean it out.  It also keeps it running cooler should anything get stuck in the cooling fins for some reason.

Same same goes for your bar oil and fuel tanks- keep the sawdust and other crap out of then as much as possible... I usually have a rag sitting with the jugs to wipe off from around the caps before they even come loose.  I don't want to have to replace a bar or even change the filters any more than necessary- it's a pain that's preventable.

Keep under the chain/sprocket cover cleaned out- you may not think it makes much difference because the chips look dry, but tree sap and oil gets splattered all over under there which catches dust and chips and eventually starts to clog it up. 

Just a few preventative tips... there's many more..

Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

JOE.G

Any tips on pulling the sprocket and greasing the drum? I hear I should grease the clutch bearing also, how is that done?

What type of grease do I use?

Sorry guys Never pulled it apart before.
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

Full Chisel

Take off the bar and disengage the chain brake. C clip off end of shaft, sprocket off. Work the clutch drum out and in. If it simply slides off without persuasion, I'm surprised. Could take well adjusted Channel Locks and grab it lightly.

The bearing under there is the one. They need greased and replaced more often than people do. Regular grease from a tube.

It's the most abused item on a chainsaw.

One Preventative Measure that makes a huge difference is keeping the chain the right tension. Loose chain causes too much wear and problems. You get those hot running condition metal components, Chain loosens just from heat. Tighten it. 

You are supposed to let tension off the chain when you shut her down. After it cools the tight chain next time you start it will  destroy things.
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

JOE.G

Ok guys I got them all off, I used impact on Stihl, and just tapped impacted to snugged it back up,

Husky 450 I used rope in cylinder and used screwdriver to install and remove clutch, no problem no nut on this one,

Husky Rancher 55 I used rope in cylinder and Impacted to break clutch free this one had a nut The sprocket on this one is a two part one, Does it matter which way to face the sprocket part that touches the chain? I put soild side toward saw and the side that has holes or vents all around it toward the hub.

I used Vavline Syn Hi temp car wheel bearing grease.

the stihl looked a little rusty so I cleaned it up ( this saw has gone though a flood ).

I just snugged all the clutches back on not to tight.

I tried to grease the little holes in the shafts of the huskys, it was a no go, the grease just shot out the side by the tip, the holes don't seem to go any were.


Full chisel, I don't see any c clips, all three saws came right off.
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

JOE.G

I tried to grease the little holes in the shafts of the huskys, it was a no go, the grease just shot out the side by the tip, the holes don't seem to go any were.

So for you guys that say you can grease the husky bearing's this way what is the trick?
Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported .025 pop up MM
Husqvarna Rancher 55 2005
Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
STIHL 009 1998
STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower 2012

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