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How To Run My Mill?

Started by Nick Walkley, May 23, 2012, 04:40:00 AM

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Nick Walkley

Hi Everybody,

I posted last week, I have just brought an old Circle Mill, PTO driven. Fri I get to get into it and I have a few nagging questions.

My mill has a cut of about 20"

I have put one log through it to see how it went and I quickly found It's limitations. It was a large log (40") so I moved it right to one side of the table to cut a flat on one side then roll it. The log was too big and couldn't move over enough to get a clean cut right through, the blade was jamming etc etc. I wound up using a chainsaw to free the cant. While I did get some usable timber out of the whole process I found myself mucking around alot and wasting wood.


Can someone give me some guidance on the process.

This is what I intend to do:

I have three logs about 30" - 60". My biggest bar is 42", I have made an Alaskan to fit it. I will use it to cut peices as thick as my circle blade cut. Then I want to run each Cant through the Circle. At this point I will cut Cants to one of the end product dimentions. Then I will stack them all up and start again for the finished product.

Obviously I am pretty green at this. All my milling experience has been on a Peterson Swing blade, a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks in advance.

Nick

Ron Wenrich

When you start out, its best to start with small logs, not 40".  My carriage goes to 42" and the biggest I've tried was about 46".  It wasn't my first log.

Your saw was jamming because you may not have things set up right.  Sawing a small log will give you clues as to what is right and what is wrong.  A lot depends on how well your saw is performing.

When you start out sawing, the first thing you should have on the saw is new teeth.  That takes out all the problems of previous filings.  You have to make sure the saw rpm is matched to how the saw is hammered.  If you are not running the right rpm, your saw will not stand straight.  That causes heat.

Your lead has to be set right.  If the lead is wrong, your saw will cut in or out, depending if its too much or not enough lead.  Your saw guides must be properly set.  If you're pushing on the saw, then you would be putting in or taking off lead.  If all is set right, your saw shouldn't heat up or bind or throw sawdust back in your face.

But, you start with small logs to see how it performs.  On large logs, you're cutting with an unguided saw at the top of the cut.  The saw does what it wants to do.  Did you lose any power when you were sawing?  You have to maintain the same rpms all the way through the cut.  You have to use your ears as well as your eyes when sawing.

Sawing large logs on any mill takes some time to get used to.  I have sawn plenty of large logs.  Most guys make the mistake of thinking that you have to saw every log the same way.  But, on large logs, I rarely saw a face, then lay that face down on the headblocks.  I only saw a face until my next cut will bury my saw.  I have a vertical edger, so I can bury the saw to an extent, and still not need a chain saw to cut off my flitch.

When I'm ready for the next cut, I just roll the log back to give me room to take more cuts without burying the saw.  Yes, it does waste wood.  But, if you're not sawing, you're not making any money.  Big logs are not money makers in many mills.  Its a time vs production thing.  If you're mill is big enough to handle the logs, you'll spend more turning and trying to handle the logs than you will cutting lumber.  Your production falls and your sawing costs go up. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Nick,you must learn to walk before you run.It's not good form to bury the saw.Tell us more about your mill and whats powering it.What Ron has told you is gospel.There are so many things on a circular mill that must be just right,and especially with huge logs.Welcome and tell us more about your operation.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Nick Walkley

It is a tractor driven machine and quite old. The fella that own it before me was a Saw Doctor so he had a lot of knowledge I don't, he is dead now.

The mill is set up on a job that he was halfway through, I have bought it with rights to finish what is on the ground. I want to work with what I have before I move the machine.

I do not have replaceable teeth in my blade, they are steel. To start with I plan to hand file but there is a sharpening jig and spare blades that go with it that I do not have yet.

The very first thing I put through was a small cant left on  the table when I took the mill over. Everything worked well and I made some very nice clear timber from it. Now I have these big suckers left.

I know I had my blade speed wrong. Since I first run it I joined this forum and have learn't about blade hammering. What I plan to do have a look for a speed at the spindle collar but if I cannot find one I will change the blade RPM until it runs true. Is that the right thing to do?

I definitly agree about big logs not being money makers. I think the optimum log size for my mill would be about 30". As things stand at the mo' I will just take my time so I can finish what is on the ground. Once that is done I have some nice pine logs at a different site that are the perfect size.

The timber is Macracapa. It is a very common tree in New Zealand and there is a good market for landscaping timber from it. One of our local timber merchants has given me an order for 300lm of what we call sleepers (6" X 8").  They use them for garden edging. If I can cut what I have to meet this order I will pay for my mill and have some money to tidy it up a bit. Unfortunatley they are typicaly a large tree, Ideal for a Peterson, Mahoe or Lucas machine, Not really ideal for Nicks Bitsa sawmill.

I will post some pictures tomorrow once I take some.

Thanks for all your advice

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