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Carb Adjustment on newer style Stihl saws

Started by Clam77, May 20, 2012, 08:11:43 PM

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Clam77

I'm want to adjust the high limit on my ms362 so it's not running quite so lean - can someone explain (to myself and others) how exactly to get it done in a quick and easy way, if possible?? 

It looks like I'd have to take off several peices just to get to the limiter tab??  While that's not really a problem, I'm asuming there's an easier way to do it...  ???
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

lumberjack48

This should not be a issue if you keep the chain sharp and rakers filed the proper hight.

The main thing is like with any saw, don't hold throttle wide open for any length of time, work the throttle cutting a big log.

Don't let saw idle for any length of time, if not in use shut it off.

I ran my Stihls over the recommended rpm, never had a problem. But, theres a But, they have to be run properly.

Clam77 i wouldn't worry at all, just don't run dull. 
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

sawguy21

Mr Nader and the EPA hath decreed thou shalt not mess with thy carburetor. Having said that the new engines do run too lean for power and longevity. The choice is yours.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

lumberjack48

I personally wouldn't own a saw that i couldn't adjust the carb on.

I never had a power issue, my saws had to perform, felling and bucking. I had Stihls on the job 8 yrs, these were every day working saws, i sold em when we quit logging.

sawguy21 with saying that, when and if i loaned one out to anybody, the first thing i did is turn the high jet counter clock wise 1/4 turn. Because i knew they would run it dull, this is the fastest saw killer there is.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

John Mc

I was able to trim the tabs on the limiter caps on my Husky 357 XP without removing them. If I recall correctly, I pulled the air filter (and maybe the starter cover?) and reached in with a small, sharp blade to trim off the hump that prevents it from turning a full revolution. I don't know if that will work on your MS 362, but it's worth taking a look to see.

A lot of new saws ship set as lean as they can get away with. That's not the best setting if you want to keep your saws around for a while.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

JohnG28

Assuming that the carb is the same or at least the same limit caps as my 361, here's what you do. Take the cover off the top so you can get to the black boot around the carb adjustment screws. Pull the boot out and off, exposing the adjustment screws. There will be red colored plastic caps on the H and L screws. They fit into the carb body by a tab going through a slot in the carb body.  Line up the tabs on the caps with the slot and you should be able to pull them out some.  I used a small pair or needle nose pliers from there to get them all the way out.  Be careful because you can mangle them up easily.  Once out trim the tab off the cap with a sharp knife and pop them back in.  All set and fully adjustable. ;D
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Clam77

LJ- I agree with you on about everything you say there, it doesn't idle any more than necessary and I do keep the chain sharp.  I was interested simply because the saw is finally coming out of it's "newness", per se, and needs some slight adjustment on the high end- nothing major, but it does need it and I can't do it due to the stop.  Moreover, like yourself- I want to be able to adjust it as I need to without having to screw around with it due to a 'dummy feature'.

Thanks JohnG- I'll try that out.  I know it only came with one on the H screw- the L is fully adjustable and I've already adjusted that.

Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

Clam77

Ok- finally found some time to mess with this thing and try to get an adjustment made..  What a pain in the oss!!    >:(

The 'black boot' that JohnG mentioned is actually part of the intake/filter assembly molding (atleast on the 362).  This means the whole assembly has to come off- after finding a metric socket to get the nuts under the air filter off the intake diffuser to loosen the assembly up, prying the rubber bushings off the frame to loosen it further, disconnect the cutout wire, disconnect the operating switch linkage, and after all that, part of the plastic frame that runs up where the adjustment holes match into the cover is still in the way big-time.    >:(

I only had half an hour to play with it at the time so needless to say..... it didn't get done.  Gonna need atleast a full hour, or so, to get it done. 

If it wouldn't be so expensive I'd say it'd be easier to take it to a shop and stand there and watch it get done to know how to do it.   ::)
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

sawguy21

Quote from: Clam77 on June 05, 2012, 09:04:18 PM
If it wouldn't be so expensive I'd say it'd be easier to take it to a shop and stand there and watch it get done to know how to do it.   ::)
The last guy that tried that with me 'accidentally' got dirty oil all over his nice suit after being twice asked nicely to wait out front. :D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Clam77

 :D  :D   Ya I guess that could happen... of course I'd ask to witness it- not just force being there.

Lil dirt or grease never hurt anyone though..   ;)
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

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