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breaking blades

Started by xlogger, May 19, 2012, 07:03:10 AM

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xlogger

I broke two blades yesterday sawing cedar and not hitting nothing. I don't keep up with how many times I sharpen the blades but guess not more than 3-4 times each. This seem to be normal on the breaking. I run the bands at 1200 pounds on a TK2000. I'm pretty new at sharpening so it a good chance the problem is me. I don't think I'm grinding too much on the sharpening but not sure. Also I don't think I run it too fast and on the gauge I just run it a little above 0 near the 1 mark. Also I'm pretty sure I've not broke a new blade. Before I look at getting a different blades, anyone got a suggestion to try first?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

ladylake


Things to check

Worn v belts, make sure the blade isn't touching tne wheel
Adjust the guide roller flange about 3/16 to 1/4 inch behind the blade when it is fully tensioned.
Run 1/4 " down pressure
Put on a good chip deflector, a lot of bark and sawdust running between the blade and guide rollers and the drive wheel doesn't help blade life. 

Some brands of blades will have more flex life than others.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

slider

xlogger this may not be the case with you but i was using the wrong cam on my sharpener for a while . it was not following the profile as it should.the difference was small but i was breaking blades going and coming.i would make light passes but still had problems.changed cam and things improved.good luck  al
al glenn

Migal

I'm sure its not you or the blades fault but there are plenty of help here and answers if it is only happening to the blades you sharpened I would bet Bibby could help ya!
Stihl learning and picked up my Log Master LM2 Cat 34hp 02 21 12! 230MF+ the toys that go with it! MS361 MS271 Stihl PB500 Echo 48" LogRite 16ft Bass Tracker Pro' Abua Garcia 5600 bait caster, Wood working equipment' Lake Lot never enough time! oh don't forget the fridge with ale! Loving Wife Rebeca

MHineman

Quote from: slider on May 19, 2012, 01:03:55 PM
xlogger this may not be the case with you but i was using the wrong cam on my sharpener for a while . it was not following the profile as it should.the difference was small but i was breaking blades going and coming.i would make light passes but still had problems.changed cam and things improved.good luck  al
It could be a wrong cam or just not adjusting it to grind enough in the gullet.  Everything I've read says microfractures develop in the bottom of the gullet and grinding removes those so they don't continue across the blade.
1999 WM LT40, 40 hp 4WD tractor, homemade forks, grapple, Walenstein FX90 skidding winch, Stihl 460 039 saws,  homebuilt kiln, ......

xlogger

After talking to ladylake, he told me to check the belts on pulleys and that seen to be the main problem they are worn down. On order now, after I get them we'll see if problems is corrected.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

j rock

 Xlogger, I get about 150 to 175 hrs. on a set of belts, on my 2000. But every mill is differnt. On my mill i get 4 or 5 sharpings with lenx. compared to Munks i get 7 to 10 sharpings. Why, I really don't know. The B-20 that I used to owen, did'nt like Munks at all. AS I said, each mill has it's owen likes & dislikes,  .J
whats fun? making saw dust!!

kgbond

Just received the DVD from Suffolk Machinery which is all about how to use your blades. Gives in great detail how to diagnose problems like you describe. They say it could be the set of the blades, which for cedar is .024. Check it out
1-800-234-7297

Kimball

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