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how to use the scale for cutting ?

Started by opticsguy, May 03, 2012, 09:33:41 AM

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opticsguy

I use a TK 1220, everything is manual and am greatly enjoying!!!! 
There is a magnetic measure tape attatched to the mill for setting depth of cut.
Not really sure how to use this as the scale does not account for the kerf.
My method is the following:
To cut 5/4 boards,  I set the blade just touching the surface of the wood, then lower to the 1 1/2" level and up one "click".  This gives me perfect and consistent lumber.
Each new cut requires the magnetic measure tape to be moved to "zero". this will allow me to again repeat the down 1.5" and up one click. 
I got this figured out for multiple sizes and works perectly but seems there must be a more efficient way?

TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

Jim_Rogers

I'm not familiar with a TK 1220 but you can always print up a sheet and keep it on a clipboard near you and the mill.
I do that so that I can make sure I have the right thickness dimensions and I look at it to see where the next cut is when I line up my saw.

All columns on my sheet are based off of the saw table so that when I'm cutting boards then the last one will be the right thickness.

I have attached one of my scales, maybe it will be helpful to you.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Jim_Rogers

The next scale I created is for when you have one side cut and you roll over to the opposite side and you want to cut boards until you reach a certain width. This is for setting the width of the boards you will make with the other scale.

See attached again.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

davey duck

if the scale is set up in the quarter scale you should be able to go line to line.I have two magnetic scales  on my saw  one measures from the log bunk up,and the other one I stick on when I hit wood wide enough to get a board out of,that way there is no guessing at the thickness.
David G.Fleming

redbeard

When my setworks was not working for several months I learned to use the scale manually and not being the best math student I made a story pole board that showed the lines for different thickness and drew the kerf lines in it and marked them a different color. The story board saddled over the first bunk and I just lowered the head down till I hit the kerf lines and marked a little line on strip for each cut. This really helped me when cutting 7/8 lumber. I dont think this is best way but it helped and worked for me. I believe we have the same magnetic strip. And the marks clean off easily on the strip.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

tyb525

My LT010 came with a scale that also didn't account for kerf. So I learned to add 1 1/8" for a board about 1" thick. It took some time but I was able to memorize it. And it makes it easy if you make your sizing cuts according to this scale, then you don't need a movable scale. For cutting mostly random width hardwood it works good. For cutting specific sizes, you need a moveable scale.

I eventually got the magnetic scale that comes with the LT15, but it kept falling off >:( So I took a yardstick and taped it real good onto the old scale. It has marks every 1 1/8". I've made several of these. I've learned to cut without a moveable scale. It's not hard once you get the hang of it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Larry

On this page in my gallery the first five pictures are of home made scales.  Might give ya idea or two.  I never liked a rule as I would forget where I was at. 

TK sells some magnetic scales that take the kerf into consideration.  You will have to call em and find out what they have at present.  They used to be round $10.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Tom the Sawyer

Call Matt at Timberking and ask him about the 'other' magnetic scale strip.  They have the one with actual measurements and another one that has common points for 4/4, 5/4, 6/4 and 8/4 boards with the kerf included.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

medic

From reading your post it sounds like you're moving your tape with every cut.  You don't need to do that. 
Lower the saw head all the way down over one of the bunks.  Measure from the bunk to the blade (should be 1 inch on the 1220).  Whatever measurement you get, line up the magnetic tape with the pointer indicator at the exact same measurement.  This lets you leave the tape in place while you're cutting without moving it every time.  You do still need to figure kerf in for your math but with enough practice it becomes second nature.
Or like Tom suggested, just get the other scale.  It speeds things up considerably. 
If I misinterpreted your post, my apologies. 
Good luck
scott
Retired Paramedic, TimberKing 1400, Logrite cant hooks, old MacCullough chain saws.  Too many projects not enough hours in the day.

opticsguy

Yes Scott, 

You are correct, I move the magnetic tape for each cut.  I will try to assimilate yours and the other suggestions here to improve my knowledge.  As this is a only a part time hobby, the learning curve is steep and I am slow.

Thanks everyone!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

MotorSeven

The magnetic Woodmizer quarter scale is calculated to include the kerf....makes life easy for the mathematically challenged like me:

https://www.woodmizer.com/webgateway/OMshopDetail.aspx?category=wlh&title=Sawmill_Accessories
WoodMizer LT15 27' bed

tyb525

I liked that scale but the magnet wasnt strong enough, it kept falling off the mill and/or sliding down.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Cutting Edge

Quote from: Larry on May 03, 2012, 02:53:31 PM
On this page in my gallery the first five pictures are of home made scales.  Might give ya idea or two. 

Larry, great idea!!  How do attach the scales to your mill??  I assume its a quick change deal   ???
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


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Larry

You need someway to clamp and quickly align (or change) the scale stick.  I used a "C" clamp with one side welded to the mill.  It needs to be adjacent to the inch scale.

And here's why.

The hardwood logs you are sawing today are for 5/4 grade lumber with a final target of a 7 X 9 tie.  On the first log open on the best face.  Align the scale stick so on your first cut your board will be 6" wide (your looking for FAS).  Take a couple of boards off that first log face and rotate to the second face on the log.  Repeat.  Rotate to the third log face.  This time align the scale stick with 9" on the inch scale.  Cut grade until you hit the 9" mark.  Rotate to the fourth log face and align the scale stick with 7".  Saw grade until you hit 7". 

There are other variations on this scheme.  You may shoot for a 4" wide board on the first cut or maybe you want to open on a sweep  face.

You've just sawn a log like only the most advanced setworks can do.  Any other way will cost grade plus you may have to make two additional shim cuts to get the tie. 
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

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