Are Setworks really worth the extra money?

[Misfit]

May be a dumb question, but since folks seem to be gracious in handling them, I'll go on and ask.  ;D

I'm still researching, reading, learning and waiting until it's time to get my mill. I've looked at Wood-Mizer (40 and 50), TimberKing 2000 (my current favorite) and most recently the Baker 3638G.

They're all in the same approximate milling capacity and price range but setworks isn't available on this particular Baker model. What I like about the Baker though, is the layout of the bed, controls and drag-back arms which would seem to make it a bit easier for a one-man operation, which I plan on being.

Since each manufacturer seems to make a fine product, the final mill choice will all come down to a personal preference in the end. But all other things aside, are setworks really that important of a factor in selecting a mill? Do they really increase production a lot? Do they really assist if you're, say, working down a cut list and want to optimize the yield from each log? Do those with them use them all the time or only some of the time?

Oops, that's more than one question......

[ladylake]

They are worth far more than thier money, speeds up production a lot. Maybe not quite so much on a walk along mill as the gauge is always right by you.    Steve

[wwsjr]

I am not familiar with the WM SimpleSet or the TK version, I am sure they are good to have. I have used Accuset 1 and Accuset 2 for the past 7 years. It will definitely increase your production. I had the walk-a-long on my 04 LT40HD and now have the Command Console on the 06 LT40HD Super. I use it basically for every cut I make. Stores 16 different Auto Up, Auto Down and Pattern settings. Take about 10 seconds to reset if needed. To me, it is well worth the cost, I wouldn't be without it.

[Bibbyman]

Yes, if you're sawing for profit and not just for fun.

Accuset is far and away more sophisticated and feature rich than any of the other setwork system.

[Magicman]

The speed and accuracy is good for both me and the customer.  Matter of fact, today's customer kept commenting about the consistency of the boards.

Mine is the older SimpleSet, but to answer your question, I would hang up my spurs and quit sawing if I did not have some form of "Set".

[LeeB]

No you wouldn't. ;)

[woodmills1]

OOOOOOOOOO




get a computor ifin ya can afford it

for fun or profit



I did fine with my 40 without accuset, but I was a math teacher for 26 years


now it is ina program

[Ga Mtn Man]

Yes, setworks are worth every cent if you are getting a hydraulic mill.   

[Peter Drouin]

YES :D

[jdonovan]

Since each manufacturer seems to make a fine product, the final mill choice will all come down to a personal preference in the end. But all other things aside, are setworks really that important of a factor in selecting a mill?

YES.

Do they really increase production a lot?

Yes.
When I'm running 4/4 boards, once I return to the start of the cut a single bump of the down switch drops me exactly 4/4+kerf and I can be back into the wood with nearly no delay. The few times I've done manual positioning it takes me at least 4-5 seconds to get on the mark sometimes more... over a bit under a bit, oops not enough.... and its frustrating.

yes, use it all the time, except for the opening cuts.

[Misfit]

I did fine with my 40 without accuset, but I was a math teacher for 26 years

I've been an accountant for 40 years - does that qualify?  ;D

[bandmiller2]

As usual Bibby nailed the hide to the shed.If you are cutting for a business or just have a fat checkbook it is slick and will speed up your milling.When you have set computer problems you have expensive problems.I have used computer setworks and they are a spoiler.If possible try milling boath ways with and without.Myself I'am not in a big hurry and the aluminum yardstick and pointer suits me fine, and I can fix it myself. Frank C.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Apart from everything else it does, Accuset takes the height to the right setting, to an accuracy of 1/32".  If your time sawing is money, it does not cost, it pays.

[ladylake]

 Just the fact that every board is the same thickness pays for it's self.   Steve

[Brucer]

In my business -- sawing timbers with an LT40 hydraulic -- they would be a complete waste of money. That's because (A) I can do the math in my head faster than I can return the carriage, and (B) the LT40 head moves slowly enough that I can get it bang on to less than 1/32" of the target.

I would most likely invest in them if I had an LT40 super, LT50, or LT70 -- or the equivalent in some other brand. The heads on those machines move a little too fast to get the height bang on each time.

I would also consider them if I was knocking out lumber instead of making big timbers.

[woodyone.john]

i wasnt to sure how good they were until mine went down.altough its only acuset 1  the ability to store 4 preset dimensions and the ease to change them and the ability to cut VERY accurate repeat cuts .no contest

[nas]

I did fine with my 40 without accuset, but I was a math teacher for 26 years

I've been an accountant for 40 years - does that qualify?  ;D

depends how creative you were/are ;) :D

Brucer nailed it.  If I am cutting timbers, I don't need it, if I am cutting planks, I wish I had it.

Nick

[ladylake]

I use mine for the quite a few jacket boards when cutting beams.   Steve

[Magicman]

Correct, there are many innovative and time saving ways to use a "set". 

Since I have always had one, I have always used it.  I have a "cheat sheet" to give me my starting points for various dimensions.  I can only imagine how much better the newer ones that Bibby and wwsjr described would be.

[Misfit]

Magicman - that "cheat sheet" you mentioned gave me an idea for a great "how to" thread topic, if you're so inclined, and it hasn't already been done.

I remember you posting once that you mark the cut lines on your logs - kind of a blueprint of what you'll be producing from it. I for one would be very interested in knowing how a sawyer sizes up each log to determine what the optimum cutting pattern is going to be.

[Magicman]

Yesterday, I had the perfect logs to do that with.  I was sawing 2X4's from nice SYP logs.  I had to take 1 or 2 side boards off of each face to reach my target.  These side boards also made 2X4's.

If I remember, I'll do it on my next framing lumber job.

You are very correct that you need to look at the log's little end, see what it will make, and visually saw it before the blade ever touches the log.  I always know exactly where my blade will either enter of exit the log on that very important first face opening.

[kderby]

Remember when four wheelers came out they did not have reverse.  Now every single one has reverse.  The performance of the set-works  is worth every penny.

Magicman and Canuck, I have a set of what I call "magic numbers".  They are not quite a pattern (Accuset has this feature).  They are magic numbers that allow me to start at the correct height and land at a finished dinension while accomodating the kerf.  I keep them on the mill.  Someday I will expand the concept.  I also am missing out on Accuset features because I am (fill in excuse here_______).

Brucer must keep this stuff in his head? ???

Cheers

Kderby

[Magicman]

Looks like we think alike, kderby.     I think that "magic numbers" and "cheat sheet" are the same.  It gives you various starting points for different thicknesses so that the dog board equals the sawn lumber.

Why do I like your term much better than mine  ???   ;D

[Brucer]

... Brucer must keep this stuff in his head? ???

Remember, I'm sawing mainly timbers. There are basically two sets of sizes. Lots of people want them cut to the full dimension, so I'm looking at 6x6, 6x8, 8x8, 8x10, 8x12, etc.

Some people want to plane them to 1/2" below nominal, which is standard for timber framing. Bandmills are accurate enough that I can saw them 1/4" under nominal and save the customer a lot of planing time. So I'm looking at a second set of numbers -- 5-3/4 x 5-3/4, etc.

Usually I take off the side lumber at 7/8 thick; that's what I get when I drop the head a full inch -- 1" minus saw kerf.

Bottom line, I'm only looking at a few "magic" numbers to remember. After a few hundred thousand BF they are pretty much burned into my brain ;D.