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has anyone made a home built debarker?

Started by mikeb1079, April 30, 2012, 02:25:10 PM

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mikeb1079

hey fellas i was wondering if any of you guys have ever tried to make a homemade debarker and if so how did it work or not work?   :D  in the little bit of sawing i've done on my homebrew mill i already see how useful a debarker would be.  i was thinking of either 12v dc or 120ac motor that spins a blade on some kind of arm?  don't know how the big boys do it but i think it would be a nice addition to my mill.

cheers!   :)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

jim blodgett


pineywoods

There's been a couple of threads on the subject. The real obstacle is getting power to whatever motor you use. The factory jobs use 12 volt motors. 2 problems there, any 12 volt motor big enough to run a debarker is gonna be expensive...and it will take a bunch of electrical power. Factory jobs have 200 amp alternators and bull dozer size batteries. A router or skillsaw with a dado blade would work if you can tolerate dragging 110 volt extension cords. My preference would be a hydraulic pump belt driven off the saw engine and a hydraulic motor for the debarker...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

mikeb1079

QuoteThere's been a couple of threads on the subject. The real obstacle is getting power to whatever motor you use. The factory jobs use 12 volt motors. 2 problems there, any 12 volt motor big enough to run a debarker is gonna be expensive...and it will take a bunch of electrical power. Factory jobs have 200 amp alternators and bull dozer size batteries. A router or skillsaw with a dado blade would work if you can tolerate dragging 110 volt extension cords. My preference would be a hydraulic pump belt driven off the saw engine and a hydraulic motor for the debarker...

hmmm....interesting.  thanks for the response piney.  funnily enough i saw a tiny little generator yesterday at the farm store and i was thinking of mounting it on the rear of my mill, then i wouldn't have to deal with the cord.  like you mentioned i think that would get old fast.  if i do have 120v on board i was thinking about using a grinder and some sort of small circular saw blade.  hmmm......
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Jim_Rogers

If you're going to use a disc grinder, then get one of those wheels that looks like a chain saw chain.
I just saw one at Bailey's online.
It was fitted to a grinder.
You could un screw the round handle and use that spot to thread the grinder onto a post in line with the blade.
But you'll have to have it move in and out so that it can be adjusted to the size of the log.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

laffs

How about an old car generator, put a blade in place of the pulley? The trick is to move it in and out when you dont need it
timber harvester,tinberjack230,34hp kubota,job ace excavator carpenter tools up the yingyang,

bandmiller2

Debarkers have a rather complicated setup to follow the contour of the logs best to look at a factory one before you build.I'am solidly behind Piney in his hydraulic motor recomendation no duty cycle and long life. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

eastberkshirecustoms

I've posted these pic's before, but here is the debarker on my mill (in progress). I'm using two separate 12v motors- a large one to power the blade, and a smaller wheelchair motor to control the in/out via a chain driven slip clutch. As stated, you will need some juice. I have a 200 amp alternator and a monster battery. I do intend on converting to hydraulic later as my head lift and power feed are also 12V.



 



 

davey duck

I bought a new but broken chopsaw  took it apart and put a woodmizer debarking blade fit right on.just have to build a arm with two joints so it will swing out of the way  when not in use.
David G.Fleming

mikeb1079

thanks for the feedback guys it's already given me some things to think about.  i have been thinking about adding hydraulics to the mill anyways (though i don't know anything about em) so maybe that's the smarter way to go...
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Brucer

The Wood-Mizer debarker has a 3/4 HP 12V motor to drive the actual debarker blade. I uses a much smaller gearmotor to swing the debarker in and out.

The in-out motor isn't attached directly to the mounting arm. Instead, it's attached to a spring that's connected to the arm. This lets the arm move in and out against the spring as the blade follows the contour of the log.

The direction of rotation is important. The debarker blade should be trying to fling the bark back toward the saw. That means the debarker is trying to push itself away from the log, acting against the spring. The pushing-in action of the spring nicely counterbalances the pushing-out action of the debarker -- if you want to make the debarker penetrate a little deeper, just swing it in a little further and it increases the inward pressure of the spring.

If you turn the debarker the other way, it will try to pull itself into the bark and even into the log. It's nearly impossible to control the penetration this way. Just a little too much inward pressure from the spring and the debarker will suddenly drag itself deeper and deeper.

The debarker blades don't have any cutting action. They are basically a series of carbide teeth with no hook angle. They don't saw away the bark, they wear it away. That keeps them from cutting into the wood.

The actual arm is in two parts. The horizontal part pivots in and out and is connected to the in-out motor via a spring. The vertical part has the debarker mounted on it and is connected to the horizontal part with a pinned joint so it can swing upward. A set of 4 powerful springs pulls the vertical arm down into position. This arrangement does several things: it acts as a shock absorber if the debarker grabs something; it lets the debarker swing up if you forget to swing it away from the log as you're returning the carriage; and it offers a little protection if you lower the head onto a log with the debarker in the wrong place.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

york

Again,over to the left-TK has one ya can look at and even buy-it looks good-hope TK will be at show may 11 and 12

http://www.timberking.com/NS/accessdetail.cfm?PID=49
Albert

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