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Anatomy of my double 2-sided blade oiler

Started by kelLOGg, April 29, 2012, 07:57:24 AM

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kelLOGg

 Some have expressed interest in the blade oiler I made to clean both sides of the blade both before and after the cut. I just changed the oiler pads and took pix of the assemblies.

Below is the housing made from 2" rectangular beam. It has pressure screws top and bottom to apply light pressure to the pads.


 

This is what an assembly looks like when it is in the housing. Note the recess for the pressure screw and lube holes in the top plate. The lips on the plate keep the pad in place both when sawing and when the engine is stopping.


 

Below is the assembly for the exit side oiler. Fairly similar to the entry side.


 

This is the complete assembly for the entrance side.


 

This is what used pads look like.


 

The felt pads are in roll form (from McMaster-Carr) and I cut them 1.5" long. Next order, I will get the densest felt they make. I apply very light pressure to them via screws top and bottom. With use the pads wear and compress so I adjust pressure til the pads lightly contact the blade. The blade teeth tear up the pads where they make contact so cleaning the teeth is not always possible, especially with oak. I designed this for heart pine for which they have done a very good keeping the blade clean. I use diesel but I presume any solvent could be used.


Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Larry

That's an interesting solution to lube the band.

How long does the felt last?  How does diesel get to the bottom pad?  How much diesel do you use in a day of sawing?
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

bandmiller2

Very good system you have Kell,I bet a quart of diesel lasts a long time.I've done pretty much the same on my bandmill except I used sections of thick round wick from the old fashioned road pots they used to put around ditches at night.I use diesel/oil or straight oil,ATF I like the best.I've never seen a drip and the bands never rust. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

LaserZX




Is this a drip system   Do you have a adjustment valve on it.   

Quote from: kelLOGg on April 29, 2012, 07:57:24 AM
Some have expressed interest in the blade oiler I made to clean both sides of the blade both before and after the cut. I just changed the oiler pads and took pix of the assemblies.

Below is the housing made from 2" rectangular beam. It has pressure screws top and bottom to apply light pressure to the pads.


 

This is what an assembly looks like when it is in the housing. Note the recess for the pressure screw and lube holes in the top plate. The lips on the plate keep the pad in place both when sawing and when the engine is stopping.


 

Below is the assembly for the exit side oiler. Fairly similar to the entry side.


 

This is the complete assembly for the entrance side.


 

This is what used pads look like.


 

The felt pads are in roll form (from McMaster-Carr) and I cut them 1.5" long. Next order, I will get the densest felt they make. I apply very light pressure to them via screws top and bottom. With use the pads wear and compress so I adjust pressure til the pads lightly contact the blade. The blade teeth tear up the pads where they make contact so cleaning the teeth is not always possible, especially with oak. I designed this for heart pine for which they have done a very good keeping the blade clean. I use diesel but I presume any solvent could be used.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

I've never had a build up on the bottom of my blades, no matter what I saw. Just the top of the blade is what I focus my attention on to keep clean.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

kelLOGg

The lube is metered via a needle valve on each side - just a drop a second or so. Latest sawing was 11 hours (pine) and I estimate I used 5 oz. It is a 2 gal resovoir so detecting a difference is difficult. And like BM2 said it never drips unless I forget to turn it off.  >:(  After many hours of sawing the felt does get sawdust impacted on it and between the pads. I eventually clean it out and/or replace them although they could be cleaned and reused. Don't really have a hard number on their lifetime. The diesel just seeps around the moving blade to the bottom pad so both pads stay damp.

I had extremely pitchy pine stick to the bottom of the blade once which caused problems so I admittedly went overboard in designing this solution and have never regretted it. If I ever see buildup occurring I just turn the drip up at bit and in mimutes it is gone.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

fat olde elf

Good job neighbor ! I know you sharpen your own bands and this looks like clean bands forever. Say your prayers.....Are you doing the community gardening project ?   FOE
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

kelLOGg

Paul,
Thanks for your comments. Yes, on the community garden. I sent you a PM about it.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bandmiller2

Kell,I bet you could get by with less diesel on your pads.The thing to do is to keep cutting back the lube until a problem, then add a tad more.Probibly you could do away with the drip,mix 50/50 diesel/oil in an oilcan a couple of times during the day squirt some on the pads.Like you say the biggest problem is sawdust fines collecting on the pads.Systems that drip petroleum lubes on the band are very wastefull  and just sling off.water based lubes are so cheap it really doesn't matter outher than the rust and mess.One old pharts opinion. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Al_Smith

 I think it's a very clever idea .

We use something similar at work only it uses a bristle brush type thing with a flow of water soluble oil for coolant on a Kalamazoo horizontal metal  cutting bandsaw .

If that thing only sucks down 5 oz a day of diesel fuel a gallon would last quite a while I would think .Seems pretty cheap to operate to me at least .

barbender

I don't care for water lube myself, it makes a mess with all the wet sawdust, and it seems like I am always running for water. I would really like to build a system like this for my LT40. The water is better than nothing for sure, and a lot of folks like it just fine. I just don't care for it.
Too many irons in the fire

kelLOGg

Quote from: bandmiller2 on May 01, 2012, 09:00:59 AM
Kell,I bet you could get by with less diesel on your pads.The thing to do is to keep cutting back the lube until a problem, then add a tad more.Probibly you could do away with the drip,mix 50/50 diesel/oil in an oilcan a couple of times during the day squirt some on the pads.Like you say the biggest problem is sawdust fines collecting on the pads.Systems that drip petroleum lubes on the band are very wastefull  and just sling off.water based lubes are so cheap it really doesn't matter outher than the rust and mess.One old pharts opinion. Frank C.

Sometimes I do turn it off and later see streaks buildup then turn it back on. I don't like to reach into the throat when the blade is moving so sometimes I shut down or wait. There are so many things vying for my attention when sawing that I can just as easily forget to turn on or off. If I spent more time managing it, I could minimize consumption and get a hard figure on it. Thanks for the comments.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

VictorH

I've thought of doing something like this but was thinking about installing it on the top side behind the blade guard flap.  Anyone have any reason why this would not be a good location?

kelLOGg

Having a wiper immediately before the bandwheel helps prevent trapping sawdust between the band and the wheel. If I understand you correctly you would lose this benefit if you put it after the band contacts the wheel.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bandmiller2

Victor,I  have two band oilers one is on top to get the outside of the band,the outher is just after the idler band wheel before the band goes through the guide and into the log.The two wickes I use have down tension due to their weight and ride on the band just behind the teeth.I have no trouble with buildup on the band.The only maintenance is to swing them up and brush off the fine sawdust and give them a squirt of oil. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

VictorH

Thanks Frank.  Do you have any pics of yours in your gallery?  Do you have separate drip control for each one?
Victor

barbender

Frank has never posted pictures, and it bums me out bad cause I think he must have a neat operation, I'd love to see it  ;)
Too many irons in the fire

bandmiller2

Sorry on the picture thing guys.Let me describe the system.Take a 4" piece of 2x2" square tube weld caps on boath ends.One end has a hinge so it can pivot horiz.or verticle.On the top I drilled a hole oposite end from the hinge for my round wick that makes a "U" turn down through a tight bushing welded to the end cap.That wick rides on the band with the weight of the unit holding it down.Drilled and tapped a fill on the top.Think of the wick as a slow siphen.When I'am done cutting I just flip top and bottom oilers verticle,never a drip. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

coastlogger

Idea:Someone send Frank a camera,Frank you take pics of all your great stuff,send camera back and we'll post pics. Id do this gladly but anyone in the same country?
Frank I got it all except the tight bushing. What was that? Im going to build mine real soon     I hope.
clgr

bandmiller2

Coasty,the "tight bushing" is just anything tight to feed the round wick through to have its end pointing down twords the band.The wick comes out of the top of the 2x2 makes a quick "U" turn through the bushing to point it down to ride on the band.Friend John [JSNH] a member here stopped by and took pictures and posted them with his. I used round wicks that were used in the old road pots to mark trenches at night.I have seen wicks like that used with citrinella oil in reproduction road pots for skeeter control around your yard. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Al_Smith

Quote from: barbender on May 02, 2012, 11:15:41 PM
I don't care for water lube myself, it makes a mess with all the wet sawdust,
You're probabley right talking a wood cutting bandsaw .I was refering to a metal cutting bandsaw .

I mean you can run them dry but you shorted the blade life quite a bit .If you run cutting oil then you have a mell of a hess if you're going to weld the metal so water soluble oil or water with rust inhibiter is the general choice .

On a bandsaw mill I can see where probabley diesel fuel would be a good choice especially due to the fact it isn't drowning the blade the same way a metal saw does .

5quarter

Frank ole buddy...That was about 200 words, only another 800 more to go before I have a clear picture of it in my head... ;) ;D
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

bandmiller2

5Q,have mercy, this old phart types with one finger.You just want an oil/diesel impregnated wick to lightly ride on the body of the band,one top one bottom.I'll have to corral my daughter or future son in law into posting some pics  here. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Hilltop366

Hay Frank, maybe we will have to start a list of people to notify when you get pictures posted. Please put me on the list.  ;D

Chico

You can prob go to some of the filer/stowel or other companies or look for olders pics these systems have been used a long time very efficient and very simple
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